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Re: engine still cuts out and backfires after changing...
This seems to be a timing problem. backfiring usually means that the timing is off. The timing belt sproket could have worn off or belt its slipping.If your car has a timing chain that could have broken sprokets. Timing is usually the culprit here in cases like this.
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Hello! are you using the harness for that year LT1? the fuel air mixture is controled by the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, the Throttle Positioning (TPS) sensor and the Oxygen sensors...When you put your foot in it without O2 sensors there isn't any control over fuel/air mix and ignition advance if the MAP and TPS aren't connected...I'm assuming your using the LT1 ECM...Guru...saailer
YOUR REAR PRE- CATALATIC CONVERTER IN FAULTY ITS THE ONE ON THE RIGHT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD BETWEEN THE ENGINE AND FIREWALL AS THE INSIDES OF IT MELTS ITS GOING TO CLOG THE REAR FULL CONVERTER AND THE ENGINE WILL LOSE POWER ALL TOGETHER BUT MOST LIKLY IDLE JUST FINE
The ECM only monitors many different aspects of the Engine while it's running. The only link I would see between the two is that the Cat.was that the ECM no longer works because they didnt want the Cars computer setting off any check engine lights etc. When you delete the Cat you delete the cars ability to convert bad vapors into less harmful ones. which in turn would set off the check engine light and not pass inspection.
He's right both and the code is the EGR valve. The car won't run with the EGR valve removed but it may be disabled some way. Most of the time EGR vales leak or the senser line stopps up. There's a small medal ine coming up the the EGR senser from the exhaust and connects to the senser this line stops up and the senser knows something aught to be happing and it doesn't so it turns the light on. Your mechanic is right it's not hurting anything but it makes the light on. It can be fixed but it'll not run much different.
check catalatic converter. If converter is clogged it will either only run at low idle or not run at all. quickest way to test is to remove egr valve, plug intake port and start truck. if it starts change converter.
There is a device located between the air intake and the throttle body called "the map sensor". It is a device that has a very fine screen element. It dictates fuel flow. This device gets dirty and quits working. They are not repairable. It is very easy to change; disconnect hose clamps on either side and remove. Be very careful handling the new "map sensor" as they are delicate and easily damaged. Also replace air filter at this time.
If you or a friend own a multimeter set it on X10 ohm scale and measure the resistance between engine and body...and the negative terminal of battery to body. You should read zero ohms (full meter deflection). If you read 200-300 (X 10) or higher you'll need to install two ground straps; one between engine and body...and one from negative battery post to body. If this is done it will solve many other problems IE... cold start-up, and rough idle. Let me know how you make out. firstname.lastname@example.org
hey if you truely think it is your egr valve unhook it and if that is the problem then when it is unhooked it should run better and the codes should not come up. hey if you cahnged the 1 o2 sensor and not the other you probably made the code for the one u repalced come up again. i would recommened that you change both of the o2 sensors at the same time. try checking if your catalatic convert is plugged. how you do this is take a dollar bill and hold it at the end of your tail pipe while it is idleing and if the dollar bill stays still you have a plugged catalatic converter.