Question about 1995 Ford Ranger Supercab
Driver 3 point seatbelt replacement
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1988 ford ranger
if you going to replace your timing belt,cam &crank shaft has a mark on it.if you have a distributor there a pigtail connector that you need to disconnect to set your base timing,usually its in the wiring harness/near distributor
Posted on May 15, 2008
SOURCE: seatbelt on 2007 ford fusion
It is a safety latch that is doing it's job.
If you wreck the car the belt stops preventing you from hitting the dash or going through the windshield.
Try this test to make sure they work:
Get in the car and start it,
Put your foot on the brake, and put the seatbelt on -
Now yank on the shoulder part real hard if it doesn't stop immediatly you should get it replaced.
Posted on Jun 24, 2008
go to autozone.com and set up a free account. You will then have access to vehicle repair guides and can get all the info and diagrams you need, plus help with troubleshooting! Hope this helps!
Posted on Jan 02, 2010
Hey everyone--after searching in vain for an entire 10 days, and absolutely REFUSING to
pay Ford's $100 diagnosis fee, and their $300 replacement suggestion
($400??), I decided to figure this out myself. And I did. Do the
following to let loose the tension that has kept your seat stuck in the
down position (though my truck is a 2008 Ford Escape, I have a strong
feeling this is the case with any vehicle):
1. Remove the seat bottoms (which are folded forward and upward against the back of the front seats). To do this, find the bars that are bracketed into the floor. There may or may not be a little yellow lever on one of the two brackets. If so, flip it and slide the bar out. If it stops, pull the other side out. Doing this should allow you to completely remove the seat from the car. Repeat with other side.
Now you should have plenty of room to work. Move front seats forward, and you've got even more.
2. Remove your back seats entirely. (Sorry- it's a must.) For many, you will require either one or both of these:
One Torx T-50 socket to remove T-50 bolt (which bolts seat belt latches to the floor)
One Torx T-55 (which bolts the folding seat into the bracket that bolts seats to the floor).
One socket extension (tip: the extension gives you much more torque, and its easier to remove bolts) and
One a 5/8" socket. (See continuation after following tip.)
TIP: if you have a 40/60 split, you have to remove the 40 first! This will allow you room to move around the 60 seat and its stuck belt.
Remove bolts that bolt bracket to car floor (this is the 40 seat). I believe there's two: 1 directly below the seat, and 1 that also bolts the 60 seat (you'll be using the 5/8" here)-- Don't hold me to it, though, as I've seen some different stuff. Pull seat out of the way to avoid potential damage. NOTE: THOSE BRACKETS ARE SHARP. WATCH THE LEATHER/SEAT MATERIAL-- AND YOUR HANDS.)
2. Remove bolts on the 60. Though the top part of your seat is down, you should be able to the bolt that keeps the bracket to the floor beneath where the seat cushion would be (and where the upper part of the seat is laying flat). A ratchet would probably be best for this since you can keep the socket in place and wind the thing completely out. I should say here that my seat couldn't have been tighter to the floor. If I got mine out, I'm sure you can, too.
Now here come the tricky, but verrrrry easy parts. They are vital.
1. Now that the brackets are off of the floor, the 60 seat should now be free-floating in your hands, but tethered by the T50 bolt that is keeping the seatbelt buckle to the floor. Remove it. Now you should be able to remove the seat altogether. I had to bring mine inside where it wasn't 15 degrees in my garage, but I believe you'll do these parts in the next five minutes. Do this next:
2. TIP the 60 SEAT UPRIGHT (just like it would if things were back to the normal operational mode). This is VITAL. If you cannot fix it with two or three tugs from here (don't waste more time than this-- the final part is coming), then do this next:
3. Find the latch on the back of the seat that locks onto the latch of the car. Using two gloved fingers (or tools), press the latch inward until it's in the LOCKED position (fooling it into thinking you've put it up and latched into into the truck bracket).
This should have also reset the button or lever that you used to unlock the seat in the first place. Now give your belt a tug. It should come loose like normal.
IMPORTANT NOTE: seatbelt tensioners rely on gravity (thing momentum during a crash) that locks the belt. If the seat is not sitting UPRIGHT (like in normal use mode), that mechanism is going to obey gravity if it is tilted backward or forward (which is why the seat got in the downward position to begin with) and lock.
That's it. Bolt the seats back in, and go buy yourself $400 worth of rewards.
Posted on Dec 09, 2010
95 Ford Ranger Auto Alarm Wiring Diagram. You need to re-check your ignition wiring. Here is the wiring for the alarm. Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire (+): Yellow Starter Positive Wire (+): Red/Light Blue Ignition Positive Wire (+): Light Green/Purple Second Ignition Positive Wire (+): Black/Light Green Accessory Positive Wire (+): Gray/Yellow Parking Light Positive Wire (+): White/Black Or Brown Power Door Lock Negative Wire (-): Pink/Yellow (Type B) Power Door Unlock Negative Wire (-): Pink/Light Green (Type B) Door Trigger Positive Wire (+): Black/Light Blue Domelight Supervision Wire: Use Door Trigger (Requires Relay) Horn Negative Wire (-): Yellow/Light Green Tachometer Wire Negative Wire (-): Any Wire With A Tan Stripe Or A Yellow Stripe Brake Light Positive Wire (+): Light Green Factory Alarm Disarm Wire (-): Dark Green/Purple Factory Anti-Theft System: N/A
Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Second Ignition Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Parking Light Positive Wire Location: At Headlight Switch Or Low In Drivers Kick Panel
Power Door Lock Negative Wire Location: In Either Kick Panel
Power Door Unlock Negative Wire Location: In Either Kick Panel
Door Trigger Positive Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel
Domelight Supervision Wire Location: N/A
Horn Negative Wire Location: At Steering Column Harness
Tachometer Wire Negative Wire Location: At Ignition Coil
Brake Light Positive Wire Location: At Switch Above Brake Pedal
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire Location: Low In Drivers Kick Panel
Factory Anti-Theft System Location: N/A
You need to re-check your ignition wiring. Here is the wiring for the alarm.
Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire (+): Yellow
Starter Positive Wire (+): Red/Light Blue
Ignition Positive Wire (+): Light Green/Purple
Second Ignition Positive Wire (+): Black/Light Green
Accessory Positive Wire (+): Gray/Yellow
Parking Light Positive Wire (+): White/Black Or Brown
Power Door Lock Negative Wire (-): Pink/Yellow (Type B)
Power Door Unlock Negative Wire (-): Pink/Light Green (Type B)
Door Trigger Positive Wire (+): Black/Light Blue
Domelight Supervision Wire: Use Door Trigger (Requires Relay)
Horn Negative Wire (-): Yellow/Light Green
Tachometer Wire Negative Wire (-): Any Wire With A Tan Stripe Or A Yellow Stripe
Brake Light Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire (-): Dark Green/Purple
Factory Anti-Theft System: N/A
Posted on Nov 16, 2011
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