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If it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it while you visually check for spark at the spark plugs. If spark everywhere, check fuel pressure and fuel injector pulse. Go from there.
We can also check circuits for power windows.
the starter and alternator have nothing to do with fire. if the engine turns over but wont run, the stater, battery are ok. there are several things to check, spark to spark plugs? fuel pressure? fuel injector pulse? a shop will need to verify and recommend repairs
Stang: Nissan had a TSB on weak spark related to the Altima's and Sentra's. It had to do with water getting trapped in the spark plug tubes due to the steam hole vents in the plug wires becoming clogged and/on the wires no longer sealing well to the motor, thus allowing water to accumulate into the plug holes. This would cause a weak spark condition. You would still get an injector pulse as long as the ignition can be triggered.
As far as fuses: There is a box on the driver's side which contains fusible links and fuses. Unless you are checking for power with the ignition on, most of the circuits will be dead because they are switched circuits through the ignition switch. The headlights will be hot without the key on, as will the running lights,horn and brake lights.
However due to the fact that you have light spark and have injector pulse, would tell me that you have power to the ECM. If you want to check circuits, buy a cheap test light and follow the instructions. it is a simple diagnostic tool for checking for open circuits. Hopeful I might have given you some direction. Good luck.
PS: if you replace plug wires, do so with a good quality wire. I have found that NGK wires and the Original equipment wires seem to be the best quality, lasting the longest. Life time warranty parts mean nothing if they fail at inconvenient times and with frequency. Many of these warranty's are gambles made by parts houses based on the fact that people loose their information, don't keep the cars and or just forgot they had the warranty and went out and replaced the parts again.
sounds very much like the coolant temp sensor
, this tells the pcm that the engine is cold, sometimes they fail and tell the pcm the car is at -40 degrees, the pcm then tries to compensate by keeping the injectors open for too long flooding the engine. the part is inexpensive, and normally easy to replace. It can be checked with a scan tool, or a volt/ohms tester,