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Error left wheel obstruction, none seen

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The left wheel is a type of pivot in a marching formation, one that brings the group to face the left, pivoting at the member at the leftmost side. http://www.10thbattalion.org/left_wheel.php That is a diagram of it.-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Autel MaxiDAS DS708

Posted on Jan 09, 2013

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2006 Murano. Where is the starter located?


If you stand facing the engine with the hood open. The starter is located on the left side of the engine. It will be difficult to see from the top. But can be seen if you remove the plastic cover on the right front wheel well, or if you were to remove the plastic panel underneath the car. If you stand facing the engine with the hood open. The starter is located on the left side of the engine. It will be difficult to see from the top. But can be seen if you remove the plastic cover on the right front wheel well, or if you were to remove the plastic panel underneath the car.

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Why does my traction contol turn on when i make a hard left turn?


Your traction control looks at a difference in wheel speeds and kicks in when a set wheel speed difference is seen. The system is just doing its job

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Abs on vr commodore light stays on solutions


Error logs are a great thing. They will help you find intermittent problems and start you off in a general direction of where a problem could be. There is a great level of detail on the justcommodores site on checking error codes logged by the engine management system, but this does not detail anything about the abs system. The abs warning light is not as common as the check engine warning light. Reading through the posts, I haven't found any detail on checking error codes logged by the abs system.

So here it is. For those of you familiar with checking the engine error codes, this procedure is so simple its not funny.

Basically, to check the engine error log, you bridge the 5th (ground) and 6th pins in the ODB connector under the steering wheel.

To check the ABS error log, using the same trusty calibrated paper clip, you simply bridge pins 5 and 12 of the connector.

To find pins 5 and 12, start at the top left hand corner. That is pin one. Going to the right, you count pin 2,3,4 etc. Once you get to the end, jump back to the start of the bottom left level of pins and keep counting. Pin 5 is about halfway along the top row, pin 12 is a little left of the middle in the bottom row.

Reading the error codes is the same procedure (counting the flashes), except now, the ABS light flashes (as opposed to the engine light when checking the engine codes).

The ABS log also uses code 12 firstly, with any errors logged shown after that. If no errors are logged, the 12 will flash again.

Error codes for the ABS error log (VR/VS) are as follows:

12 Diagnostic system operational
21 Right hand front wheel speed sensor fault
23 Right hand front wheel speed sensor continuity fault
25 Left hand front wheel speed sensor fault
27 Left hand front wheel speed sensor continuity fault
28 Wheel speed sensor frequency error
31 Right hand rear wheel speed sensor fault
33 Right hand rear wheel speed sensor continuity fault
35 Left hand rear wheel speed sensor fault
37 Left hand rear wheel speed sensor continuity fault
41 Right hand front inlet solenoid valve circuit fault
42 Right hand front outlet solenoid valve circuit fault
45 Left hand front inlet solenoid valve circuit fault
46 Left hand front outlet solenoid valve circuit fault
55 Rear inlet solenoid valve circuit fault
56 Rear outlet solenoid valve circuit fault
61 Pump motor relay circuit fault
63 Valve relay circuit fault
71 ABS control module internal fault

The above guide has been verified on a VR/VS. Checking the error log on all models prior to VR/VS is the same for the engine log, and I would assume that the same can be said for the ABS log, would be happy if someone could verify this for me.

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1 Answer

Just brought my 1995 Cherokee recently, and I already have a problem with it. Going about 45mph veering left. The left front wheel started woobling violently as if it was about to come off. No nuts was...


That condition is called "death wobble" and can be pretty scary! I've found that the majority of ones I've seen with that condition need ball joints.
Many shops will blame the steering damper (sideways shock on front steering linkage) That part can be damaged by the wobbling but will not cure the problem. Looseness and wear of any of the steering components can also cause the same condition, as well as improperly torqued wheels but in most cases the ball joints are just worn out (no grease fittings there).
If you decide to do the job yourself, get a chilton or haynes manual and also be aware that you will need a hand held press (they cannot be hammered in) While you have it apart, check your brakes, axle joints and hub bearing. Since they need to be removed to get at the ball joints, it's a good time to service them if needed!

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What do i need to replace hub bearings for 2003


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Check abs system lite on how do you find the code list


ABS Fault Code List 1991 Corvette (C4)
Code Definition
21 Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Fault
22 Right Front Toothed Wheel Frequency Error
25 Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor Fault
26 Left Front Toothed Wheel Frequency Error
31 Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Fault
32 Right Rear Toothed Wheel Frequency Error
35 Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Fault
36 Left Rear Toothed Wheel Frequency Error
41 Right Front Solenoid Valve Fault
45 Left Front Solenoid Valve Fault
55 Rear Wheels Solenoid Valve Fault
61 Pump Motor or Motor Relay Fault
63 Solenoid Valve Relay Fault
71 Electronic Brake Control Module Fault
72 Serial Data Line Fault
75 Lateral Accelerometer Fault (Short ot Open)
76 Lateral Accelerometer Fault (Signal out of Range)

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2 Answers

2002 hyundai elantra power stearing pump replaced. Loud squeal and chatter when stearing left or right. HELP


was the p/s system bleed of air properly before running the new pump. wheels should be off the ground and the fluid reservoir full then wheels turned from left to right all the way and top of fluid as needed. then start engine and continue to cut left and right. fluid aeration will cause premature pump failure and noise. also ensure that no other parts are restricted, i have seen faulty valves in the rack or lines cause restrictions in the flow and cause the pump to fail even new ones. hope this will help you

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1 Answer

No brake pressure


Your complaint states that you see no air, is there fluid coming out of the left bleeder when bleeding the brakes? If you only see a few drops dribbling out, or nothing comes out at all...This can be a very difficult problem to solve. If this vehicle is a 1992 or later, it has rear antilock brakes, and if it is an ABS system, bleeding usually requires special equipment, and procedures. But there is something you can try. This takes quite a bit of time and patience, and a little bit of preparation. First you must realize that in the case of rear ABS, each rear brake has it's own fluid source, and plumbing from the ABS unit. If the obstruction is in the ABS unit none of the steps following will solve the problem, but you'll have to perform these steps to find out! DO NOT TOUCH THE BRAKE PEDAL UNTIL I INSTRUCT YOU TO HAVE AN ASSISTANT HELP YOU! USE PROPER PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT! (Gloves, and eye protection, and protect your skin from exposure to brake fluid!) First we must know whether the flexible brake hose on the left rear is obstructed. The easiest way is to simply replace it, or if you don't want to start with a new part, you could disconnect it from the steel brake line that runs along the frame towards the rear of the car. (you don't have to remove it from the wheel cylinder first). Place a drip pan underneath the disconnected components. Now open the hood and remove the master cylinder cap. Make sure the brake fluid level is at the maximum height in the master cylinder. Now go back and look to see if there is any fluid leaking from the steel brake line. If there is not, then this is the point where patience is a virtue. There is air in the system all the way to the ABS unit. If the ABS unit is not obstructed or defective, fluid should flow by virtue of the force of gravity through the system and out of the end of the disconnected steel line, but if there is no fluid flow, it will take several minutes to possibly up to an hour and a half. If you have the patience to leave the car alone, maybe go to lunch, or to the auto parts store to shop for a while, gravity will do the bleeding for you. Once fluid begins to leak from the line, reconnect the brake hose and open the bleeder. Allow several more minutes for the wheel cylinder to fill and fluid to bleed out of the bleeder, then close the bleeder. Now do a complete bleed procedure using an assistant to pump the brakes while you finish bleeding any remaining residual air out. If you didn't get fluid from the bleeder, after you reconnected the hose, and after you waited long enough for the wheel cylinder to fill, then the brake hose is obstructed, and you will need a replacement brake hose. Once you are sure there is fluid flow, and no obstructions between the bleeder and the ABS unit, then you shouldbe able to obtain adequate pressure. If you can not get pressure, or fluid flow, you probably need to replace the ABS unit. There are additional procedures for ABS unit bleeding, but again, special equipment is required, so professional service is recommended.

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