Question about 1991 Mazda 626

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How long does it take to install a master cylinder ?

It is leaking

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About hour

Posted on Jan 08, 2013

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Allow yourself a good couple of hours,don`t forget to bleed the brakes aftewards

Posted on Jan 08, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: mazda rx 7 rebuilt kit clutch master cylinder.

crack the bleeder nipple on the slave cyl and get some one to slowly push the pedal see if any fluid shoots out if not you may have killed the new seal in the master cyl.
it sounds like you did every thing right its just that old cylinders get were in them and if you don't hone them out and put a new sleeve in them quite often you will rip the new seal apart on the first pump of the pedal.
any way check for presser and let me no

Posted on Dec 21, 2008

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I have 94 Mazda mx-3 for the past month or so I've been having problems with my clutch and I notice a big wet stain on the floor mat and carpet I assume its the master cylinder or slave cylinder but I am...


It's leaking on the driver's side? That would be the master cylinder bolted onto the firewall. You will have to replace with a new or remanufactured clutch master cylinder. When the seals go out, the whole unit must be rebuilt. The store will give you a discount if you bring in your old one for exchange.
The clutch slave cylinder will be down on the transmission bell housing. Follow the small steel line from the master cylinder. It goes right to the slave cylinder.
Pretty easy to change out the master cylinder. Remove the steel line, unbolt unit from the firewall, then under the dash, there's a rod from the clutch pedal to the master cylinder. Just undo the retaining clip or pin holding the rod to the pedal. When the new unit is installed and filled with fluid, then you get to learn how to bleed the hydraulic clutch at the slave cylinder-the fun never stops.

Oct 31, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Bleeding the clutch after installing/96 bronco xlt


Clutch Master Cylinder ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ Inspect/Replace The clutch master cylinder is located next to the brake master cylinder. A slave cylinder is attached to the release lever at the clutch. The two cylinders are attached hydraulically by tubing and hose.
f62-17.gif A hydraulically operated clutch. To Remove:
  • Take off the reservoir cover and remove the fluid from the reservoir.
  • Disconnect any wires connected to the reservoir or master cylinder body.
  • Disconnect the tubes.
  • Remove the nuts or bolts attaching the master cylinder to the vehicle.
  • Slide the master cylinder off. If it will move only a short distance but no farther, replace one of the nuts or bolts (finger tight) to support the master cylinder and then disconnect the pushrod from the pedal. After disconnecting the clip or pin and clip holding the pushrod to the pedal, try to remove the master cylinder again.
To Replace:
  • When installing a new master cylinder, it is a good practice to flush the cylinder with clean brake fluid. This is done to remove any debris that might be left over from the manufacturing process or chemical coatings that were used to protect the cylinder from corrosion. To flush a master cylinder, simply fill the reservoirs and the cylinder bores about one-third full with clean brake fluid, install the reservoir cover, plug the line ports, shake the cylinder to work the fluid all around, and drain out all the fluid.
  • Bench bleed the cylinder.
  • If the old master cylinder used a boot or hub seal, a new one should be installed as the master cylinder is being replaced.
  • Place the master cylinder in position, replace the mounting bolts or nuts, and tighten them to the correct torque.
  • Reconnect the pushrod to the pedal as necessary.
  • Remove the plugs or bleeder tubes from the outlet port as you connect the line. Do not tighten the line yet. Place a shop cloth under the line fitting to catch any fluid that may leak out.
  • Fill the reservoir about three-fourths full with brake fluid.
  • Have an assistant slowly push the pedal as you observe the connections a the outlet port. They will probably be leaking some fluid with air bubbles. Continue the pedal strokes until only fluid with no air bubbles leaves the connection.
  • At this point, tighten the connection with the pedal is being pushed downward.
  • Fill the reservoir to the correct level and replace the cover.
  • Reconnect any wires that were disconnected.
  • Check the brake pedal free travel and adjust it if necessary. There should be 1/16 to 1/8 in. (1.6 to 3.1 mm) of free travel before the pushrod engages the piston in the master cylinder

May 08, 2012 | Ford Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

My volvo s70 break pedal goes all the way to the floor ad new master cilinder new bled nipals stil after 2week its gone back down again what do i do next


It sounds like you have a small brake fluid leak, allowing air to enter the system. Small leaks can be hard to find. You will have to remove the wheels in order to inspect the calipers. Also make sure the bleeder valves are tightened securely after bleeding the brakes. Did you bleed the master cylinder when you first installed it? If you can't find a leak, bleed the entire system again, including he master cylinder.

Feb 15, 2011 | Volvo S70 Cars & Trucks

4 Answers

Brake pedal to floor have replaced brake pads and master cylinder


Did the pedal go to the floor beforehand? Was the master cylinder leaking, and did you bleed it properly? If the master cylinder was not leaking, check your brake lines going to the rear wheels.

Jan 29, 2011 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

3 Answers

Mazda e2200 clutch repair: feels like I still have some kind of pedal springback, but without much force. No clutch at all. I assume it is hydraulic, but the only reservoir I see is for the brakes. That is...


Yes, hydraulic--check again--fender side of brake master. Slave is usual cause of leak that eventually causes master reservoir to go dry and start drawing air. Check slave for leak. If leaking, replace slave and bleed system. Make sure to bench-bleed slave before installation by opening bleeder and pouring fluid into line port.

jturcotte_373.gif
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Back off the flare nut on the fluid pipe to free the slave cylinder hose.
  3. Pull off the hose-to-bracket retaining clip and pull the hose from the bracket. Cap the pipe to prevent fluid loss.
  4. Unbolt and remove the slave cylinder.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the bolt to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).

Dec 04, 2010 | 1988 Mazda B2200

1 Answer

What needs to be done after replacing front brake pads on a 2005 s60 if the pedal goes to the floor? They were bleed after the new pads were installed.


The liquids does not compress, so there is no reason for the brake pedal to go to the floor. If you have no brake pressure, after bleeding the system, then the master cylinder is wasted. The brake master cylinder leak might be Internal, or External. Check around the master cylinder for any external leak. The break fluid is an excellent paint eater, so clean any leak before you remove the Master Cylinder. The new Master Cylinder needs a bench bleeding process, before installed in your car.

Oct 27, 2010 | 2005 Volvo S60

2 Answers

Brakes squishy no leak


Mushy / squishy brakes are usually caused by the brake master cylinder seals failing. You can buy a rebuild kit or a re-built replacement master cylinder. I would recommend the rebuilt master cylinder as all the detail work has already been accomplished and it is not a huge expense. The key is to make sure that your use a bleeder kit to "Pre-bleed" the master kit before installation. Your making sure that the master cylinder is free of air before installation. If you instal it with air in the system it wil take you the better part of a quart of brake fluid to bleed the whole brake system via the wheel cylinders. What will happen is after you install the master cylinder the brakes would still be mushy and until you got the residual air out of all of the lines it would appear and act just like it did before you changed the master cylinder.

Thanks for using FixYa,

Kelly

Jun 03, 2010 | 2000 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

How to replace the oem clutch master cylinder on a 1988 ford f-150 ,,, where is it located on the truck?,,,


Removal:
1.From inside the cab, carefully pry the clutch master cylinder pushrod and retainer bushing from the pedal cross-shaft lever pin.
2. Disconnect and remove the interlock switch.
3. Remove as much fluid from reservoir as possible and place shop rags under the master cylinder to catch leaking fluid.
4. Disconnect hydraulic line from the master cylinder and plug lines and outlets to avoid contamination and excessive fluid loss.
5. Remove the two nuts retaining the clutch master cylinder.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal exept after installation, bled the system.

Feb 21, 2010 | 1988 Ford F 150

3 Answers

No breaks, fluid wont hold, no leaks. goes right to the floor, takes a long time to stop. do i need a new master?


could be could be broken lines or rear drum cylrnder problems look underneath for leaks.

Oct 12, 2009 | 1997 Dodge Dakota

2 Answers

Clutch or master problem?


CHECK FOR ANY LEAKS STARTING AT MASTER CYLINDER THEN CHECK SLAVE CYLINDER AT G/BOX IF OK THEN BLEED CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER OR SLAVE CYLINDER MIGHT HAVE WORN SEALS IN THEM THOUGH SO PARTS MIGHT NEED REPLACED.

Dec 16, 2008 | 1993 Nissan 240SX

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