Question about 1998 Cadillac Eldorado
I haven't had any other problems than this, (although I do need to change the oil). I cannot afford to take it to the dealer to have it fixed. I'm a full time college student, mother of 3 and widowed with no money. Please help me
Once you get this problem fixed, you may need to look for a cheaper car. Any luxury car is going to be expensive to maintain as it gets older.
The security light is telling you the security module does not recognize the chip in the key. There is a sensor in the lock cylinder that reads the chip in your key to make sure you are starting the car.
The system would need to be diagnosed to find the problem. The only thing you can do without tools and books is try a spare key.
Posted on Jan 08, 2013
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your best bet would be to take it to a shop to have it changed. Some of the fluids are simply too difficult to be removed without professional help.
The oil can be changed by loosening the bolt on the oil pan under the car. While down there you can check to see if the gasket around the oil pan is leaking oil and you can check the tightness of the oil filter. If that's not it, maybe a head gasket problem? If you take out a spark plug and there's no oil on it, that's probably not it. I know my Eldorado uses a quart of oil a month, as did my Deville which was also a Northstar. Rather than spend thousands to replace every seal and gasket, I pay $5/month for a quart of synthetic oil (which I recommend as it doesn't break down as easily by the heat, has more lubrication and lasts twice as long). My cousin, who is a mechanic, also told me that oil can be burned and piped out of the exhaust, which is why I never saw drips or leaks.
Coolant is another fluid you should change. I just did mine but I could not find the petcock (drainage valve) for the life of me. I simply removed the lower radiator hose (while the coolant is cold!) and drained it in a bucket which I later threw on my neighbors lawn (kills the grass, to get back at the barking dog). Anywho, make sure you use DexCool, the orange stuff, when refilling the radiator. 60/40 mixture of coolant and water. I ignore that and pour the whole thing in and think whatever I couldn't get out will help dilute it down. I also use AlumaSeal to prevent any leaks. I add the aluma seal to the upper hose before adding the coolant. I also check the coolant cap to make sure it's not corroded. That's a $5 part that can quickly depressurize your system and make you lose $10 worth of coolant and possibly strand you and your car.
Transmission Fluid - take it to a shop. For about $80 they have a machine that pumps the old stuff out and the new stuff in. I used synthetic once ($200 for 15 bottles!) and it lasted a day - they screwed up one of my transmission hoses at the shop that added it and it all leaked out. The cheap stuff probably works fine, and at the very least if you don't replace it you should "top it off". Drive the car around (or warm it up and switch from gear to gear spending 30 seconds in each) and check the dipstick. It's a pain to get to under the air filter assembly.
Brake Fluid - you can take off every tire and bleed your brakes one at a time, making sure the brake fluid level is never completely empty (otherwise you will get air in your system), or as one of my friends used to do just use a turkey baster and **** the old stuff out and put the new stuff in. I use Prestone Dot 4 despite their dire warning it only takes Dot 3. Dot 4 is more resistant to heating up.
Power Steering Fluid - the turkey baster approach again or take it to a shop to have it drained for you. I've never figured out a way to completely flush the entire system at home and it looks like something I wouldn't want to bother with.
AC - you can charge this up with a little $30 bottle and gauge from Walmart and it has a lubricant for the a/c seals too. Works great, you simply shake the bottle like it's a baby and you are a British nanny, snap the gauge onto the nipple located in the middle of the car (I think it has a blue cap - there are only two nipples and it will only fit one), turn it upside down and inject it in. I can't remember if you pressed down on it or if it had a valve or button, but you inject enough until the pressure is within the parameters specified in the owner's manual. I'm not sure of the psi off the top of my head.
If the car hasn't been started the gas may need to be checked for it to start. I put a product called "Sea Foam" in the gas tank to help clean the injectors - it's about $9 at Walmart and works far better than those STP gas additives.
I'd also check tire inflation and make sure the fluid in the battery is good (as well as the battery itself) before driving it.
Posted on May 10, 2009
Try Item #1 first it is the easiest.
Then Check the small water pump belt, it is not the serpentine belt.
The next step is to either check the Block with the following block tester available from NAPA
The part number is 700-1006
or change the thermostat dealer cost about 60.00 AUTOZONE about 40.00 You will need to purchase the Gasket with which ever you purchase from.
I had written a detailed note and the system dropped it. I hope this helps. coolant system drawing is available from:
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
Same that happened to me. There is a detailed write-up here: http://vatspasskey.com . The guy is great, this was the only way I was able to save my Park Avenue. I see it applies to your model too.
Posted on Apr 25, 2010
The thermostat in the northstar engine is located at the bottom radiator hose (unlike most conventional cooling systems), the hose connects into the housing where you will also find the water pump.
Remove the hose from the housing,then remove the two bolts on the flange,the thermostat can then be pulled out.
Take note of the orientation of the thermostat as you remove it.
Don't forget the new gasket when you install your new stat, you may have to order this separately.
The most common overheating problem with the Northstar engine is a blocked purge line(small hose).The purge line is designed to purge air out of the cooling system.
There is a small diameter hose coming from near the top of the coolant tank (not the cap) ,this is the purge line.
With the engine idling,pull the purge line from the tank,if there is no coolant flow from this small hose,it is blocked and this will cause overheating.
If the hose is clear, check for blockage at the nipple on the tank.Or trace the hose back until you find the blockage.
The hose goes in to the engine to a crossover and comes out the other side close to the thermostat housing,the blockage may be there.
Posted on Apr 26, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Mar 14, 2015 | Cars & Trucks
Jul 04, 2014 | 1999 Cadillac Eldorado
Feb 20, 2011 | 2007 Jeep Commander Rocky Mountain
Apr 25, 2010 | 1995 Cadillac Eldorado
Mar 30, 2017 | Cadillac CTS Cars & Trucks
Oct 28, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet Tahoe
May 22, 2009 | 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis
Apr 03, 2009 | 1999 Volkswagen Jetta
Oct 01, 2014 | 1998 Cadillac Eldorado
115 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!