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Very little clutch travel

The clutch has only about 1 1/2 to 2 inches of travel, making it difficult to get into gear. The clutch is not slipping. It feels like there may be air in the hydraulic system. Would bleeding the system help?

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  • Bill James Jan 08, 2013

    Yes, 2004 Toyota Hilux 4WD Doublecab Diesel.

  • jamiem1416
    jamiem1416 Jan 08, 2013

    You can try bleeding it, but it also sounds like your slave cylinder is starting to go. Im not sure if your vehicle has a slave cylinder adjustment or not, but it will say if you have a manual. I'd try bleeding it first

  • Bill James Jan 09, 2013

    Thanks, I have tried bleeding, but that seems fine. Will look into adjusting, or replacing, the slave cylinder and see if that helps.

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Make model? its always helpful

Posted on Jan 08, 2013

  • Bill James Jan 08, 2013

    Thanks, 2004 Toyota Hilux 4WD Doublecab Diesel

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2 Answers

Freelander clutch


check out the operation of the clutch system .IT is difficult to rationalise a hydraulic clutch because if it is slipping that means that the pressure plate is being held off and not fully engaging but it also means that when pressing on the clutch the there would be no problem changing gears . But if you have a cable clutch operation then it is possible that the cable is jamming inside the outer cover and holding the pressure plate off ( slipping) and gear problems. If it is cable then replace the cable first. If hydraulic then it may mean box out for a new clutch kit.

Jan 12, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Jeep grand cherokee quadra drive


Differentials.

The Jeep Quadra Drive systems have a limited slip differential in the transfer case as well as the front and rear axles - which allows you to run all wheel drive on all surfaces. This matters because without limited slip capability your transfer case & axles would break.

Have your transfer case and axles serviced by a dealer, really a real dealer for Chrysler Jeep. These diffs and transfer cases can use unique gear oils that you don\'t want to mix up with regular gear oil.

That howling, clunking, grinding noise is your dog-clutches slipping (as designed) as you go around the corner.



Additional Details below:

So what\'s the Diff?



All differentials are is a way to allow for different wheels to travel different distances on the same vehicle. What-he-say? Yep, when we turn a corner all 4 wheels go a different distance around that corner... oh yeah well everybody knows that. Think about it, your making that hard left turn at your favorite Fast-Food joint; your left front wheel is 2 feet away from the curb, but the back left wheel rubs the curb... why?

As you make that 90 degree turn, your left back wheel travels 4 feet, your left front wheel travels 6 feet, your right rear wheel travels 7 feet, and your right front wheel travels 8 feet.



Ok you say, what\'s the big deal? A couple feet slip here a couple of feet slip there... Well remember your sticky rubber tires on dry asphalt don\'t really give very much and u-joints, axles shafts, and even pinion and ring gear damage can occur. Fortunately for us, Leonardo DaVinci (yeah really) saw this problem coming and designed the Open Differential. There are mini-gears inside your open differential that allow for that slippage, these mini-gears are called spider gears. Problem is when your in snow, ice, mud the spider gears of the open diff allow all your power to go to the wheel with the least traction (and your stuck).

Ok let\'s put another powered axle up front and call it 4x4. Umm no.

A normal 4x4 is not really true four wheel drive. At best it\'s the worst 2 wheels you\'ve got - driving you forward. Until both wheels on the same side are in a ditch, and your stuck.



Well what the heck Leonardo? I want something better than stuck!



The old-time dragster dudes of the 50\'s & 60\'s agreed with you and they welded those little spider gears together for true positraction across both wheels. Ever been close to a big monster truck in a parking lot and heard its tires chirping around the corner? Or an old Jeep crow-hopping it\'s way around a corner - Letting out little tire noises (like "erp" "erp" "erp")?

That\'s because these 4x4\'s have been modified to not have any differential action. None. This is great in a 1/4 mile dragster race or a mountain climbing rally car. A locked front differential can (and most likely will) cause you to crash... not good for daily drivers.



You\'re in luck, the Limited Slip Differential (LSD) has clutches instead of spider gears, which engage as wheel slippage increases. Subaru and Audi are 2 companies that really brought this to market with All Wheel Drive decades ago. Jeep and other SUV/Pickup manufacturers have utilized clutch-based LSD\'s as well. Clutch-based LSD\'s however, have a limited lifespan and can require special gear oils. When Clutch-based LSD\'s fail, they basically become an Open Diff.



Automatic locking differentials were brought to market in the 70\'s & 80\'s by companies like Detroit Locker, and these engage a fully locked set of gears as soon as any slippage occurs. Problem is it can become very difficult to steer, at all. Forget about U-turns, just go around the block. And while your at it, stop and pick up another set of tires because it will feel like you are dragging your outside tires around every corner.



Jeep and Daimler-Chrysler developed another type of LSD that utilizes a small hydraulic pump to engage a set of clutches and gears, which lasts much longer than traditional LSD\'s. It was called a Gerodisc differential, and it worked fairly well. Not as much traction as a full locker, but good LSD performance. The problem was the Gerodisc couldn\'t control itself in the car-washes, and would build-up pressure as the tires slipped over the soapy rollers, and launch the Grand Cherokee across the car wash. Yeah, it was freaky. So freaky that the National Car Wash Association of America (yeah they have an association, who knew?) prohibited all Grand Cherokees. Look it up.



The King Daddy of differentials is the selectable locker. These little gems are very expensive, but you get all the benefits of both the open diff for maneuvering, and lockers for traction only when needed.



So that noise, while it may not spell imminent doom, surely ain\'t good.

Jan 02, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My 88peterbilt 15 speed is slippin in low range and in the last 2 gears what might be the problem


Most likely a clutch problem. What, if anything, has changed recently? Does the clutch have 25 years of use, or has it been replaced? Is there some "free play" at the top of the clutch pedal travel? If not, you might try adjusting the clutch pedal to bell housing linkage to create such travel, just to make sure you are getting all the clutch pressure that its pressure plate can provide.
It slips in low gear because that uses the most engine force to accelerate from a stop. As you shift up, you minimize the clutch load because you wait until the engine is revved up, indicating the acceleration load between shifts is not too great. In the highest gears you are driving at highway speed using very little power from the engine to maintain that speed. If you come to a slight upgrade, not enough to require downshifting, you add extra load, again more that the worn clutch can pass through to the axle.
Do you "slip" the clutch or "ride it" when starting or driving? We minimize clutch wear by using the lowest gear that allows the truck to start without using the fuel pedal. This may be how and why you wore out your clutch.
If you can't help the problem by adjusting the external linkage, you most likely need to replace the clutch. If you are unsure, try having a competent truck mechanic evaluate it first.

May 27, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Clutch cable geo tracker


don't want to shift? fills a huge basket ,
1: grinds?
2: can't get in to some gears.? or all gears.? (engine running and not)?
3: clutch drags, clutch slips kills all gears, or just 5th.
drag kills them all and reverse 1st , its the canary gear. !! non synchro
4: noise.? or chatter, ****,larchig, or throwout hash ,?

here is the clutch page, link below.

the #1 failure for a gear not Selecting is a $5 fix.
the tip of the shifter shaft, plastic POS is broken, bar none this failure,#1 and sold only at SUZ, get em' while you can they are chapter 11 ANDGM/GEO is brain dead , ask them , and you get blank stares.

this can be proven, by selecting the gears by hand. running.
if failure, cant move those fork rods?
running? only
if you cant, the clutch is dragging. see why?
works stalled means the clutch drags.
can you shift to 1st stalled, start engine drive off can you get any gear? yes,if yes , constantly? with no grinding, the clutch is ok.

to do that manual shifter off test test the shifter must be removed.



the we get to the cable.
see the 1inch rule here, no guessing.
play set to spec, and you floor the pedal , person 2 sees 1 inch travel, (END new cable worry)
if it moves 1inch and the tranny can not be SELECTED.
the clutch is bad, if you can select only stalled motor.
if selection fails all time, stalled and running, the tranny is siezed.
covers every fail logged by 1000s of users

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clutch-on-kick.html

Dec 12, 2012 | 1994 Geo Tracker

1 Answer

Burnt smell from clutch when im in 3rd gear


It sounds like the clutch is close to being worn out as the pressure plate is not gripping the clutch plate with sufficient force when power is applied. Before you consider replacing any thing, first check the clutch free travel adjustment because as the clutch plate wears the free travel does decrease and if there is no free travel, then there will be some releasing action on the pressure plate allowing cluth plate slip. Hydraulic setups are usually self adjusting but you should check the free travel of the clutch pedal which should be about 3/8 to 1/2 inch measured at the pedal rubber. This is done by adjusting the push rod that links the pedal arm to the piston in the master cylinder. Adjust by first loosening the locknut on the rod at the end where it attaches to the pedal arm and turning the rod in either direction to obtain the correct free travel. One adjusted retighten locknut.
For a cable setup there should at least 1/8 inch of free travel of the cable before it starts to move the clutch fork on the outside of the bell housing. To adjust, hold the operating fork so that the release bearing is touching the fingers of the pressure plate. You will need to turn the cable adjuster so there is only about 1/8 to 1/4 inch of free travel of the cable where it attaches to throw out fork before it starts to move the fork when the pedal is depressed.
If all adjustments are correct and clutch is still slipping then the pressure plate diaphragm spring has lost its tension and /or the clutch plate has worn down to the rivets. Either way you will have to do a complete clutch rebuild.

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1 Answer

Clutch Dodge SX2.0 2004


Just to be sure recheck the fluid level of the mastercylinder again. If it is a little low refill with proper fluid, and work the clutch several times with parking brake set. Also check the clutch pedal bushings at the top of clutch pedal to make sure there is no sticking or excessive wear. If you find anything unusal about the bushings, they need to be replaced. Hope this will help you.

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1 Answer

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clutch needing replaced, very common on all manuals

pedal travel adjustment,yes
gear shift adjustment,no

May 12, 2009 | 1998 Dodge Dakota

1 Answer

Clutch slipping


A clutch is usually adjusted from underneath the car if it's a mechanical clutch.

Your comment that there is very little play at the top indicates an improperly adjusted clutch. You should have about 1/2 - 3/4 inch of play before feeling the clutch in the pedal.

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1 Answer

1979 ford f350 clutch pedal travel 1/2 inch


sounds like the clutch armerature may be hanging or broke. it's the rod that ingages the clutch.

Nov 09, 2008 | 1979 Ford F 350

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