How hard would it be to replace the hydraulic clutch system in my 1996 F150 with an old fashioned sprung clutch? I replaced the master and slave 2 years ago, but once again it is leaking. If I replace anything again it will have been the 3rd slave and 2nd master in the last 6 years.
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The clutch slave cylinder pushes against a throwout arm
The throwout arm is a lever and it pushes against the throwout bearing which thenpresses against the clutch plate and dis-engages the clutch.
Throwout bearings are typically sealed units that last until they fail, at which time they get replaced.
You should not have to worry about greasing it.
Hope this helps.
Most likely your hydraulic hose has sprung a leak. Otherwise your problem would be with the clutch master cylinder cup or the clutch release cylinder cup. Check your clutch fluid level, if it is low there may be air in the system and it will need to be bleeded.
This year and model uses a Hydraulic clutch release system, all hydraulic clutches by design are self adjusting. If you have a hard pedal or a slip problem you need to replace the clutch disk and pressure plate.
The problem is the clutch master, it needs a new assembly.
Replace the clutch master assembly and piston inside don't retract anymore, rubber caps are already worn out. The cheapest way is buying a new set of clutch master kit( internal parts only ).
Bleed the system afterwards.
Your truck has a hydraulic clutch, check to see fluid is full in the clutch master cylinder, and see if fluid is leaking at the line or the slave cylinder, line could have broke, or master/slave cylinder needs replaced.
check the fluid level in the clutch reservoir,make sure its full,the hydraulic slave cylinder is located inside the bell housing you can check that by looking around bottom of transmission for fluid leak,these systems are hard to bleed air from ,
If it's going into gear hard it's most likely because the clutch is not disengaging enough. Do you have a lot of free play? Does the clutch start to grab with the pedal real close to the floor? If so, check the the nylon bushing under the dash where the pushrod for the clutch master cylinder attaches to the arm. Is the pedal real spongy, is there air in the hydraulic system? Another posibility is that you damaged the pilot bearing causing it to drag and it keeps trying to turn the trany. If you get the rolling a little then try to put it into gear, will it go in easier? If so the clutch is dragging. There is nothing with the brake lights that will cause it to shift hard. With an automatic trany the brake lights will unlock the torque converter. Also with a 4X4 and automatic trany and electric shift on the transfer case, the transfer will not shift unless the trany is in "N" and your foot is on the brake. There is nothing on a manual set up that anything to do with brake lights and shifting.
There are four main things that can go wrong in a hydraulic clutch system, causing this condition.
In order of DIY-friendliness:
1. Just bleed the system could be enough provided there are no significant leaks. Check out this for a procedure suggestion: http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/803
2. Check for leaking hoses, tubes and connection in this hydraulic circuit. Rust could be an issue, also cracking old hydraulic hoses. Not that hard to replace faulty components usually but it depends.
3. The main cylinder for the clutch system is leaking and needs to be replaced. Don't know how hard it is on your car but this is mostly a rather painless procedure.
4. The slave cylinder is leaking. On some cars it can be a real pain to replace as you have to take the transmission out, no fun at all on Saab 9000 for instance. On other cars the slave cylinder is more accessible and rather easy to replace.
You should not drive this car at all until you at least made step 1 here, bleeding the system making sure it works. The car is basically inoperable without clutch.
If the problem comes back, you have to proceed through the steps until you find and correct the problem.