Question about 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

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I have my heater switch on # 4 & it hardly blows any hot air.

Can it be the switch since #2 hardly blows any air out or is it my heater core?

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  • 2 Answers

It is probably the switch. Had to have the one in my 02 malibu replaced for the same problem

Posted on Jan 09, 2013

  • Sandie Mills Jan 09, 2013

    Thank you so much. Is it a hassle to replace the switch?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 217 Answers

SOURCE: '98 S-10 heater blowing cold air - not hot air

will the air flow switch from floor to the mid to defrost? if so then we have a problem with the tempature door actuator. easy to replace just in tight place. Keep me posted for more help or if this was any help thanks

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

  • 2039 Answers

SOURCE: Heater blows cold, and fan switch only works on 4 and 5

working on 4 and 5 speed that the resistor that broken cold air you got to move the selector to see the motor that move the trap hot and cold sometime when the motor was not move to the hot side for a long time its jam the motor on the passager side under dash put to hot and gently tap the motor tanks pierre

Posted on Nov 09, 2008

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 chevy s10 heater not blowing hot air

heater core or leak on cooling system

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

co7196
  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: 97 chevy Suburban blows hot air

sounds like you have it. Danper doors malfuction. This is due to a vauum hosr disconnected or leakin. Listen for leakge everything turned off. chk under hood for disconnwcted or broken hose. Good luck

Posted on May 26, 2009

Tech jk
  • 102 Answers

SOURCE: my heater stoped blowing hot air.antifreeze level

If the blower is blowing air just fine, but you cannot control the temperature, you need to listen to air coming from the vents while turning the temperature from hot to cold. If you do n ot hear any change in airflow, then you may a temperature door in the dash broken. this is becoming a common problem on the Equinox and Pontiac Torrent,

Tech JK
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Posted on Oct 15, 2009

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1 Answer

2000 chevy silverado not blowing hot air


1: not enough liquid in the system (air in the heater core)
2: inoperative heater valve not allowing hot liquid into the core
3: hot/cold blend door in the heater box stuck on cold
4: clogged heater core
A clogged heater core will have one hot hose and one significantly cooler hose at the firewall connection; easily tested by hand. a good core will have both hoses very hot to the touch when the heater is on full blast.
Make sure that the system is full and at operating temperature, and the heater controls set on full heat. Feel the hoses at the firewall; if they are both too hot to touch then the problem is in the heater box or controls.

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Your heater core could be blocked. Check the hoses going to it on the inside of the engine compartment. There will be 2 5/8' heater hoses going into firewall adjacent to one another. The tempature of these hoses should be almost the same after your van has reached normal operating tempature and your temp select switch is on hot(heat). If not it's a good idication your heater core may have some blockage in it. You would then have to flush it out or replace it. Hope that helps.

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1 Answer

No heat air is blowing cold


First you have to identify what causes the problem.
To do this you have to:
1) When engine is cold check the level of coolant. If it is low fill it up.
2) Start engine and check if engine reaches regular temperature. If your engine is not heated enough it means your thermostat does not work properly and should be replaced.
3) If engine temperature is normal, then check the temperature of pipes that go to/from heater core. These pipes are located up the fire wall (easier access is from the passenger side). If pipe/pipes are cold (even engine is worm) it means you heater core is plugged and should be flushed. Keep in mind, flushing the whole cooling system is different from flushing heater core.
4) If pipe/pipes are hot/warm, turn off the fan, switch controller to the hot position, wait for 3-4 minutes and turn on the fan. Note if the cold air blows first or warm air blows first but it cools down in 5-10 seconds. If the air blows cold than it is most probably the problem with blend door or blend door actuator.
5) If air blows warm first and then cools down, then while running engine and remaining the transmission in PARKING position, press on the gas pedal until your engine reaches 3,000 RPM. Check if your heater blows warm/hot air. If it does, then your water pump does not work properly and should be replaced. If the air still cold, I would suggest to flush the heater core.

Oct 22, 2009 | 1998 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

MY 1998 FOR TARUS HEATER WILL NOT WORK.WAS DRIVING


It is most probably the problem with blend door or blend door actuator. But just in case I would suggest to follow the entire procedure:

First you have to identify what causes the problem.
To do this you have to:
1) When engine is cold check the level of coolant. If it is low fill it up.
2) Start engine and check if engine reaches regular temperature. If your engine is not heated enough it means your thermostat does not work properly and should be replaced
3) If engine temperature is normal, then check the temperature of pipes that go to/from heater core. These pipes are located up the fire wall (easier access is from the passenger side). If pipe/pipes are cold (even engine is warm) it means you heater core is plugged and should be flushed. Keep in mind, flushing the whole cooling system is different from flushing heater core.
4) If pipe/pipes are hot/warm, turn off the fan, switch controller to the hot position, wait for 3-4 minutes and turn on the fan. Note if the cold air blows first or warm air blows first but it cools down in 5-10 seconds. If the air blows cold than it is most probably the problem with blend door or blend door actuator.
5) If air blows warm first and then cools down, then while running engine and remaining the transmission in PARKING position, press on the gas pedal until your engine reaches 3,000 RPM. Check if your heater blows warm/hot air. If it does, then your water pump does not work properly and should be replaced. If the air still cold, I would suggest flushing the heater core.

Oct 17, 2009 | 1998 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Heater not working


First you have to identify what causes the problem.
To do this you have to:
1) When engine is cold check the level of coolant. If it is low fill it up.
2) Start engine and check if engine reaches regular temperature. If your engine is not heated enough it means your thermostat does not work properly and should be replaced.
3) If engine temperature is normal, then check the temperature of pipes that go to/from heater core. These pipes are located up the fire wall (easier access is from the passenger side). If pipe/pipes are cold (even engine is warm) it means you heater core is plugged and should be flushed. Keep in mind, flushing the whole cooling system is different from flushing heater core.
4) If pipe/pipes are hot/warm, turn off the fan, switch controller to the hot position, wait for 3-4 minutes and turn on the fan. Note if the cold air blows first or warm air blows first but it cools down in 5-10 seconds. If the air blows cold than it is most probably the problem with blend door or blend door actuator.
5) If air blows warm first and then cools down, then while running engine and remaining the transmission in PARKING position, press on the gas pedal until your engine reaches 3,000 RPM. Check if your heater blows warm/hot air. If it does, then your water pump does not work properly and should be replaced. If the air still cold, I would suggest flushing the heater core.

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1 Answer

Does not blow hot air (heat)


The heater in your car depends upon a flow of hot coolant going through the heater core in order to get hot air into the car. If the heater core is partially plugged, it will restrict the flow. If you have a head gasket that is putting exhaust into the cooling system, it will eventually get into the heater core. When this happens there is no coolant in the heater core to make the air warm. If the water pump vanes have corroded away the result will be very poor coolant circulation causing the heater to not blow hot air. If your car is equipped with a heater control valve that is not functioning properly, the coolant flow will be restricted. One or a combination of these factors is likely the culprit in your case.

To attempt to clean the core, you must flush the system multiple times. If this does not work, the core cannot be cleaned and must be replaced.

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I experienced the same head ache. First attempt was to replace the thrmostat and after taking it apart I realized that there was nothing wrong with it. I then removed the plastic cover/panel located under the dash board on the passenger's side. (only a few 4-5 smalls screws) Removal will enable you to see the on/off switch/gate moving/rotating as you turn the knob to hot or cold positions, on the control panel. If that switch/gate seems to work ok, then the trouble is within the heater core. Many mechanincs suggested that I replace the heater core. A very expensive proposition.
I checked the heater core supply/intake hose and found it hot to the touch, while the return hose was nearly cold. It was definitely a heater core blockage. I removed both ends (supply and return) hose connections/clamps. They are located near the fire wall in the engine compartment. A special tool is very helpful to remove those clamps easily and to replace them as well. It can be done the old fashion way but this tool was a life saver and reduced work time to just minutes. (Tool is $70.00 bucks at auto parts store,so I borrowed mine from a mechanic/friend)
I then hooked up a garden hose to the return end of the heater core and reversed the flow of coolant/water through the heater core. My truck is a Sierra 2000 and I refuse to see how a heater core could get clogged up with clear coolant alone. To my surprise a flat piece of rubber about the size of a quarter blew out of it and the flow of water became unobstructed. I reconected the ends of the hoses to the heater core, replaced the lost antifreeze & everything returned back to normal. No money spent for something most mechanics suggested I replace control valves/switches ($280.00) replace heater core ($500.00) etc etc. I am glad I was curageous enough to tackle this myself and save a few pennies. Good luck, and I hope this will work for you.

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