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usually when this happens its caused by the caliber being push beyond its normale operating range or contaminated brake fluid. you should change the brake caliper and flush the brake lines with brake cleaner then bleed the system with new brake fluid
If you have no e brake that tells me your problem is something to do w/rear brakes. Pull your re brakes back apart and make sure everything is seated properly. Sounds like you didn't adjust rear shoes out far enough. Double check rear adjustment THEN bleed again - rt rear -> lft rear ->rt frt -> lft frt.
The rear caliper piston has to be pushed and turned in, due to the emergency brake set up. There is a tool than can be used to turn the piston in, then press the piston in, then turn the piston again, until the piston is collapsed, you'll have to do this a few times, turn the piston clockwise. You might want to spray some WD-40 around the seal and piston to help turning the piston.
#1) Break Loose your Lug Nuts,Just A Little don't Take-them off yet.
#2) Jack Front end off the Ground,Support with Good jack stands,Keep Truck in Park and Emergency brake Applied.
#3) Now Take off your Front Wheels-Tires.
#4) Now on the Inside of your brake rotor on each side,there are 2-Caliper mounting bolts. Allen Bolts 3/8" Allen Socket or Allen Wrench.Break the 2-Bolts loose and Remove them.
#5) Now after the Caliper Bolts are removed ,Loosen the Brake Line going to the Calipers using a Flare wrench.You'll need to have a Drain Pan handy to Catch the Brake Fluid.
#6) Now you'll need a C Clamp ,to compress the caliper piston back in the Caliper. NOTE: before you compress the Caliper pistons ,take off the master cylinder cover and using a suction bulb remove about 1/2 of the fluid from the Front Resevoir.the larger of the two.
#7) Now placing the C-Clamp over the Caliper housing turn it clockwise to compress the Piston all the way in.
#8) now you can remove your caliper and the pads,same for Both Sides. AND remove your Rotors they are held on by the Calipers and your Lug-Nuts.It Should come right off ,if its a little rusted and Stubborn take a Plastic Headed Hammer and Tap it all around the Old Rotor.Until it comes off.
#9) Now Slide your new Rotors on the HUB and over the lug nuts.
#10) Get your new caliper Making sure you have the Correct Caliper its Marked Left or Right Sides. It will only work on the Side its made for.
#11) Now put your Anti Rattel Clips on the Correct Sides(Inside) that fit into the New Caiper Piston.also use some brake lube on the back on the new brake pads where they touch the caiper housing.
#12) With both pads in the Caliper Slide the Caliper over your New Rotor. This is for both sides.
#13) Put your brake line back on using the new brass washers that came with your rotors/or Caipers.
#14) Now Put your Caliper Mounting bolts in and tighten up to 38 Foot Lbs.
#15) When you have both sides done Fill up your master Cylinder about a 1/4 " from top.
16) Now you'll need to bleed them ,Get a Friend and have them Slowly push the brake pedal down,after he says its down you open the bleeder valve until fluid and air come out==Now tighten it back before your friend raises his foot up off the pedal.During bleeding keep checking your Master Cylinder to keep it full of fluid.
#17) Start your bleeding from the Right Rear to Left Rear to Right Front and Last Left Front. Always bleed from the farthest brake or Wheel from the Master Cylinder and work your way to the Master.
#18) After you have No air coming out of the bleeder valve and you do have good clean brake fluid.Your Done Bleeding;You should have a Good tight and High Brake Pedal. NOTE: you DON't start the Truck to bleed the brakes.
#19) Now just Put your Tires back on and Tighten your Lug Nuts and you should have good Brakes.
I'm sure that this will get you good brakes and on the Road Again.
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To replace the rotors, remove the calipers and then just take the rotors off. If you don't open the hydraulic system (you should not need to) no bleeding is necessary, but you will need to retract the caliper pistons using a "c" clamp in order to get them back over the new rotors. Make sure the slide pins that the bolts go through to hold the calipers on are free and that the piston boots are in good condition to avoid any further problems there.
The pads are mounted to the caliper. The caliper is bolted to the spindle bracket. There is brake hardware which should be replaced with the pads.
Look behind the wheel at the backside of the spindle bracket. The spindle bracket is on the verticle shaft with coils on one end and an A shaped bracket on the other. There are usually 2 bolts that may have normal bolt ends or "Allen" bit fittings.
When you buy the brake hardware you can check for the proper socket for the mounting bolt. You unbolt the caliper, use a rope or wire to suspend it under the frame without disconnecting the brake line.
The pads come off with the hardware. You need to compress the caliper pistons to make the new pads fit. Use a C clamp and an old pad to squeeze the pistons back into the caliper. Remove the Master Cylinder cover so fluid can return.
Then use a bonding chemical like "brake quiet" to mount the rear pad to the caliper piston. Mount outside pad to caliper and then slide caliper over the rotor on the spindle bracket. Lube the slides of the new brake hardware and bolt into place.
You should have the rotors checked for thickness and whether they are warpped before you put on the new pads.
try this. open the two bleeder screw at the rear calipers. leave it open untill the fluid drips generously. close the bleeder. try the brakes. if it works bleed it the nornal way. note: make sure you dont run out of fluid in the master cylinder