Tail lights and cluster lights out.

Check 20Amp LP Park Fuse in Underhood Fuse Block (mounted to right strut tower) Check 15Amp Tail Lic. Lamp Fuse In IP Fuse Block.

check fuses under dash and under hood

The common power source for the tail lights and instrument cluster is the 20A TAIL LPS fuse(s) in the fuse block. BUT, in the case of the instrument cluster, there are actually two fuses with the same identification. Replacement of the fuse with the ORG wire connected should restore the tail lights when you set the turn/hazard/headlight switch to PARK and may restore the instrument cluster lamps. If not, replacement of the second fuse with the two YEL wires connected should solve the problem

usualy there is a faulty earth to the bulb cluster remove them and clean all the conectors spray the harness and cluster with wd40 or similer put all bulbs back in and see if that works but i would go with a bad earth hope this helps ivan uk

prob. a bad inst. cluster ck. your fuses 1st. ! do you have tail lights?

Hello: Check the fuses in the fuse box under the hood, drivers side also check the fuses in the trunk fuse panel on the drivers side. If the tail light fuse is open that will keep the instrument lights out also.

should be fuse #1. It runs all the parking lights, so may be labeled PARK.

Sounds like you have a power drain (small-amperage short) in the wiring going to your instrument cluster. The short has disabled some of your instrument cluster lights, but, since is has high resistance, it has not blown a fuse (since it draws to few amps). Once the current drain has wasted enough amperage, there's not enough left in the battery to start the car.
Phase 1: Interim solution: (1) charge the battery with your battery charger (if you don't have a battery charger, attach the battery with jumper cables to the battery in a running car - its alternator will charge your battery).
(2) pull the fuse(s) to the instrument cluster, thus killing power to the short.
(3) start and use you car without instrument cluster lights until you can move
to phase 2 of your repair. If you're not sure that you've killed power to the short, disconect the battery each time you stop the engine.
Phase 2:
(1) isolate the problem (the short) to one specific fuse, meaning one specific branch circuit in the car.
(2) trace the wiring from the fuse block to the instrument cluster, looking for
burn marks, bare wires (all wires should be insulated), or anything touching
a frame ground. Also look for moisture iintrusion - water can cause these types of high resistance "shorts" - with the symptom that the problem disappears after the water dries up.
(3) correct wiring problem found in step 2, plug in fuse. done
(4) if replacing instrument cluster, use instructions below.

1995-99 Models

See Figure 4
Fig. 4: Common instrument cluster found in 1995-97 "S" series Pick-ups.
(see illustration at end of message)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the sound insulators/trim panels.
3. If necessary for access, unfasten the steering column nuts and if necessary, the bolts at the lower flange, then lower the column for access.
4. Unfasten the instrument cluster bezel screws located at the lower edge of the bezel. If no screws are present, then remove the bezel by pulling it straight out.
5. Unfasten the four screws retaining the instrument cluster to the instrument panel, unplug any necessary cluster electrical connections, then remove the cluster.

To install.
6. Install the cluster to the instrument panel making sure the cluster is firmly seated onto the connector, attach any necessary electrical connections and tighten the cluster fasteners to 17 inch. lbs. (1.9 Nm).
7. Install the instrument cluster panel bezel by snapping it into position, then if equipped, install the screws along the bottom of the bezel.
8. If lowered, re-position the steering column and tighten retaining nuts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm) on 1995 models. On 1996-99 models tighten the nuts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm). If removed, tighten lower flange bolts to 120 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
9. Install the sound insulators/trim panels.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.

Your instrument cluster and console lights are protected by fuse #2 (15 Amp) in the underhood fuse and relay box. They actually get power from the tail lamp relay. If the tail lamps are working, the relay and the fuse is not your problem. The brightness of these lights are controlled by the Multiplex Control Unit and theCPU built into the instrument gauge cluster. The dimmer circuits are actually integral with the instrument cluster. If the tail lights are working and the lighting in the instrument cluster is working, then the problem is either a CPU failure in the instrument cluster or an open circuit between the instrument cluster and the center console lights. The console lights themselves should have power all the time that the tail lights are turned on. The CPU in the instrument cluster provides ground for them to function. The wiring is a little different depending on which model you have and how it is equipped (LX, DX, EX, LX with side curtain airbags, etc.) however, the function is the same.

I highly recommend scanning your computer network for fault codes before spending a lot of time trying to perform electrical diagnosis. There may be a fault code present that will lead directly to the cause.

I have same problem. Fuses keep blowing in 1 to 2 days, which affect all interior & instrument cluster, parking/tail/turn signal, Lights which was 4 fuses. Good Luck & def. check fuses (3 locations)