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Auto repair Bogs down and dies after I've been driving about 10 minutes. It also is hard starting and takes about 5 turns-belt squeals a couple times then it idles fine. I have put new sparkplugs,air filter,fuel filter and front brake pads. What should I try next?

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  • 57 Answers

If it only dies when hot it could be coil related. Sometimes after they get hot if they are bad they will lose spark.After it dies check to see if you are getting spark to your plugs.

Posted on Jan 08, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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hotrodshop
  • 106 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 Dodge ram diesel just die out of the blue.

It sounds like it could be the transfer pump. Turn the key on and then crank the engine for about 1 second but leave the key in the run position and listen for the transfer pump to run. It should run for about 15 seconds after you stop cranking. If not, then you will need to replace the transfer pump with a in-the-tank conversion kit if your is mounted on the side of the engine block below the fuel filter housing. If you already have the in-the-tank pump then it might be siezed or the "sock" might be plugged up with alge or other contaminants. I usually lift the bed rather than removing the tank to replace the fuel module. If the check engine light is on you might want to have it scanned for codes to make sure since the modules can be spendy.

Posted on Jun 05, 2009

SOURCE: 91 F150 runs rough at low idle

If you put a scanner on it and you have no misfire codes I would be looking at either an egr valve stuck open a little or a bad Idle Air Control Valve

Posted on Aug 06, 2009

  • 532 Answers

SOURCE: 1994 chevy s10 blazer turns over, won't start

try replacing the fuel regulator,or is the oil cap on tight?the fuel regulator works on base vacumm

Posted on Sep 07, 2009

  • 340 Answers

SOURCE: 1993 s10 4.3 starts fine, while idling it dies.

only half way there if you have a tbi check the crank sensor/ cam sensor that is the first line of business on that truck if the crankshaft sensor fails the truck stops dead when you wait a few minutes the sensor re energizes and the truck will work again for a bit antiknock can cause similer problems but not while the truck is running

Posted on Feb 24, 2010

  • 14585 Answers

SOURCE: 94 taurus dies while driving. replaced ignition

Check the coil for a white ash look any where on the coil. This is an indication that there is a crack in the case and its firing thru it. this can cause that problem. one other is the pick up coil in the distributor. these will not show anything. theres no way to check because when they are cool, they will test fine, but when there hot they just die. when they cool down , they work again

Posted on Jun 18, 2010

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As I look at your letter, which is very good, I might add, here are the few things that occurred to me.
The "loud squealing" should be a belt.
You have one or several belts, and if they get loose, or are worn out ( that includes the belt rubber getting old and hard) they will squeal like that.
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If you are really careful, a "mechanic's stethoscope" might help you.
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Can't find the source of the squeal


Year make and model ??
The belt could be glazed and slipping even if it is tight.
You could have a weak belt tensioner too.
The noise when the ac or heat is turned on can be the extra load from the ac compressor or the alternator. The compressor cycles on and off especially in defrost mode.
The load from the alternator is the first noise of the day. As the belt warms up it becomes better at handling the load of the accessories.
Even tho the belt looks fine, you may have to replace it to get rid of the noise.

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Honda crv 2003 - squeaking / squealing nosie from passenger side that disappears when braking or turning hard


If only the pads were changed then you can't expect much

Proper brake service requires hours of rust removal,lubing
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No reason at all for brakes to squeak except poor & sloppy
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99% of that comes from the pros

Those who work on there own cars eventually learn the
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I don't know your situation or where the work was done or
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1 Answer

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I believe I know the noise that is troubling you. If a new belt is correctly tensioned and still makes such a noise it would indicate either contamination with oil or similar or pulleys that are less than perfectly aligned

The noise and your description is symptomatic of slippage and the pulley that is most likely to be slipping is the small alternator pulley. After starting and when accessories are being used that require a significant current the alternator needs considerable power to drive it in order to produce that current/replace the battery power used to start the engine.

The increased power to drive the alternator must be delivered via the drive belt. As the battery voltage rises the charge rate will fall and the power needed to drive the alternator falls and so the squealing reduces and then stops.

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from memory the alternator belt is in a fairly in accessable postition so the belt is going to be hard to put back on.try other things first, like wiping the inner side of the belt with a dry cloth to remove moisture.
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