Question about 2004 Volkswagen Polo 1.4
Major service was done with an non vw company and at 203 500 kms current mileage is 210 000 kms
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: NO POWER / SHUDDER
Is it a standard or automatic transmission? If standard, your clutch may be slipping. While driving down a straight road, push the brake while still in gear and push the gas pedal as well. If the engine slows with the vehicle, the clutch isn't slipping. If the engine speeds up while the vehicle is slowing down, the clutch is slipping.
If it is an automatic, check the transmission fluid. You may be low and the transmission is slipping while under load, or the torque converter is slipping for the same reason. You may have a bad torque converter clutch switch, but the computer should have picked that up and made your "Check Engine" light come on.
These are the main reasons you would be losing power going up hills unless your engine isn't powerful enough to handle the larger tires on extreme hills. (It takes more power to turn a larger wheel going up hill since the vehile has to travel further for each revolution of a larger tire. Incidentally, have your speedometer checked. You will be going faster than what the speedo says since you put larger tires on.) Good Luck.
Posted on Aug 19, 2008
I have changed a few cylinder heads under warranty for this type of problem. The exhaust valve guides wear, this causes the exhaust valve to seat badly, giving low compression. if one cylinder compresion reading is more than about 50 psi below the others, then this warrants head removal. It is quite a job, due to the fact that the camshft id chain driven. If you are up for it then once the head is removed, poor liquid into the exhaust ports and see if it leaks out through any of the exhaust valves.
Posted on Jul 23, 2009
Check your Belts first to see if they are loose, worn or slipping.
Check your Battery Connections. Take off the Cables and clean both the Battery Post and Cables with a Battery Cleaning Brush.
The Battery Starts the vehicle and runs nominal operations.
The Alternator provides the electricity to Run the Engine. It also provides a small trickle charge to the Battery, recharging it.
If the Alternator is failing, it will draw electricity from the Battery, until eventually the Alternator will fail and deplete the Battery, rendering the Battery (and veh) Dead.
A great way to check the Alternator is to:
1) Start the Vehicle.
2) With the Egine Running, Disconnect the Negative Cable from the Battery.
3) If the Engine Dies, then the Alternator is bad and needs to be replaced.
The Last possibility is the Battery is old, losing it's charge, or losing it's capability to be charged. If your Battery has rectangular caps on top, carefully remove one-cap-at-a-time; and using a Ball Float-Bulb Tube Battery Tester check each cell (hole). More than 2-cells (out of 6 cells) below 50% constitutes a new Battery. Also check your Battery Fluid Level. Use DISTILLED WATER only when adding Fluid. Remember that Battery Fluid is highly Acidic and causes burns.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!
Posted on Feb 18, 2010
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