Question about 1997 Nissan Pathfinder

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Rear end starts to lock up while driving then kills motor

Rear or it starts to hop then motor cuts out

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THE LEAST EXPENSIVE WAY IT A USED ONE. A DEF REMAN WILL BE UP IN THE 800 TO 900 BUCKS AND MAY BE MORE FOR A POSI . MAKE SURE ITS THE REAR END . IF IT LOCK UP IT WILL NOT MOVE THE CAR OR MAKE LOT OF NOISE

Posted on Feb 16, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

old marine
  • 1923 Answers

SOURCE: when you start to take

It's not clear if you had the rear suspension replaced before or after the truck bottomed out, but you may want to check to see if the axle is 'square' with the rest of the truck. Measure the distance from the front mounting bolt of each leaf spring to the rear axle housing. If these are equal, measure from each rear mounting bolt to the axle. It seems like the axle may be at a slight angle to the direction of thrust of the rear wheels, causing the hopping until you get up to speed, when the acceleration/thrust is minimal.

Posted on Nov 04, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: motor boat noise coming from rear end when driving

Can you hear the ocean?

No, seriously your question is kinda generalized but do you notice it more when the rear window is down? If so check your rear tires for uneven wear and 4 wheel alignment (and don't open the rear window).

Posted on Aug 16, 2009

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1 Answer

When I select 4 wheel drive, why does it feel as though it is binding or dragging and whining while driving?


Depending on the specific vehicle many 4WD have a transfer case that will lock the front and rear drives shafts together. This configuration is only for slippery conditions like ice and snow or very wet or off road. When turning the radius is different between the front and rear so there is a lot of feedback to the steering wheel. This is created by the fact the front set of wheels and the rear set of wheels must make the same number of turns because of the locked transfer case.

If you attempt to drive on high friction surfaces the stress to the drive train is excessive and will cause damage. The whine and the bunny hop is the drive train attempting to release this tension. If you were on a slippery surface the tires would have much less resistance turning at slightly different rates.

Also critical is the tire size need to be the same. However even with perfectly matched tires the problem on dry surfaces remain the same.

The AWD vehicles are equipped with a third differential that allows for the difference between the rotation of the drive shafts so it can drive on dry pavement no problem. Some configurations allow the AWD to have the transfer case locked which falls into the first category where dry pavement is prohibited.

Some Jeeps have a viscous coupling in the transfer case that permits limited slip between front to rear but the resistance to slip increases as the deference increases as in the event one tire is slipping
These Jeeps still have the lock up option in the transfer case requiring dry pavement when engaged.

Hope this helps?
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Slip hop but not tranny


I wonder if the suspension is broken on one side of the rear wheels, or maybe a brkn shock? Seems liky the rear end may be rolling a bit back and forth, Does it do it in Reverse too?

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1 Answer

Rear wiper will not shut off


the motor in all wipers motors boxes.
has a switch inside, called the keep alive or auto cancel;.
its bad.
ive fixed many a switch inside, most shops throw the whole thing way.
for good reason, they dont want you back next week for same problem.
on old cars we try to fix things. direct.

to prove this. we use a voltmeter
at the 2 power pins, one goes to 0volts when you turn it off
the other stays hot. 12v. this is normal
if the motor fails to stop, the motor internal switch is bad.

the tests are here.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

under wipers chapter and wiring 8w-53-4
as you can see the rear motor has 3 wires.
pin 2 is ground
pin1 is keep alive pin, 12v.
pin 3 is demand, 12v wiper on, 0v wiper off.

if you cut the pin 3 wire, and the motor keeps going, the motor internal switch is bad.
if cutting pin 3 , kills the motor ,that means the hand switch is bad.
or shorted some way.

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Need viscous couplings


if i was u i would drain oil from diffs and top up again ,,, then find a area to drive on full lock either way for at least 10 mins either way ,,,, re drain oil and refilll and see if its ok ,,,,, if problem is still there remove driveshaft to rear and drive again to see if there is a problem in the rear ,,, ie if problem is still there its the front ,,, if gone its the rear

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1 Answer

Wheel hop rear wheels


you have bad shocks-and- or tires that need replaced-while car is setting try to push down on the rear and see if it goes down easily and then bounces when released-jack rear end up-try to spin tires and see if they spin freely-check tires for cupping or funny wear patterns-you also may have brake shoe that are coming apart and locking a wheel up without putting on the brakes-so lots of options here-hope you get it solved-cheers Denny

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Why is it that when i put my truck in four wheel drive it only turns one wheel up front and one in the rear? This is on my Ford F150 4x4 1989


The gears in the axels are open type - meaning they drive the wheel with the least amount of traction, most often right rear and left front wheels. Some of the rear axels were fitted with a limited slip type that would drive both wheels.

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Loose collar on rear end were pinion hooks to drive shaft after it fell off. it is large in diameter and is very thick and heavy stuck between rear end and pinion were the drive shaft hooks up in the rear....


It is the pinion yoke flange to the driveshaft. NO you can not cut it off. A large nut in the middle of it has to be removed. The nut attaches to the pinion driven gearand if cut off a new gear will be needed

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What other year models will have the same differential as a 1989 gmc truck 1/2 ton 4 wheel drive i looking to change out the whole rearend.


All the rear ends from that model run should fit size wise, and probably older as well as newer body styles. To be sure take a measurement from backing plate to backing plate to be sure. Also measure between your spring brackets. This has to be the same on you replacement rear end unless your are good at cutting and welding. Be sure you have the exact same gear ratio in the new rear end as the old. If the aluminum tag is missing, to be sure you will have to remove the cover and count the teeth on the crown gear and the pinion.This has to be exactly the same as the one you take out or you will need both rear ends in a 4x4. Most scrap yards stock rear ends by gear ratios, not dimensions. Hop this helps.

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1 Answer

2000 Chevy Tahoe


no. It would be the other way around. If something went wrong in the rear end and it locked up, you could break the drive shaft universal joints trying to force it to go. if your rear end locked up, I'd be willing to bet there was no oil in it.

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