I HAVE A 95 JAG XJ6 3.2 PETROL AUTO.THE ENGINE IS CONSTANTLY RACING,FROM 1200RPM UP TP 2000RPM.I REPLACED THE IDLE CONTROL VALVE AND THERE ARE NO AIR LEAKS OR ANYTHING.THE CRANK SHAFT SENSOR HAS BEEN REPLACED ALSO.THERE ARE 2 SENSORS ON THE THROTTLE CASING.1 ON TOP AND 1 ON THE BOTTOM OF IT.IF I CONNECT THE WIRED CABLE TO THE BOTTOM SENSOR.THE ENGINE WONT START.BUT IF I LEAVE IT DISCONNECTED THE ENGINE WILL START BUT STILL RACING.I HAVE A FEELING THIS BOTTOM SENSOR HAS SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE REVS BUT DONT KNOW WHAT.LIKE I SAID,THE IDLE CONTROL VALVE WAS REPLACED WITH A BRAND NEW ONE SO I KNOW ITS NOT THAT.OILING THE THROTTLE ISNT DOING ANYTHING EITHER.ANY HELP AT ALL WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED............
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Re: Jag XJ6 revs are too high
If you have replaced the Throttle postion sensor (TPS) or have replaced the battery, sometimes the car will need an engine set up.
I had the same problem with my xj6 and I did an engine set-up and it has been fine for the last 2 years. Also with the idle doing what it did it had a very harsh shift when driving and changing gears.
The BAD news is the dealer has to perform the engine set-up using the WDS (worldwide diagnostic system) The set-up will set the kick down switch, it will calibrate and set the TPS and also perform an oxygen sensor orientation test.
With the set-up it will allow the TPS sensor to be adjusted to the correct factory specs.
Sorry you can't do this your self.
This is obviously if there is no vac leaks and the throttle butterfly is set to 2 thousands of an inch. (gap on the side when closed throttle) check with a feeler guage.
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I had the same problem (X-type 2.0d 2004). The stutter was cured on mine by getting the ECU fashed with the latest firmware. This is a known problem and the update does cure it (£28), I didn't bother with all the tests the garage wanted to.
The noisey engine at idle is the alternator belt. It resonates at idle and causes the noise, There is a modified bottom pulley, tensioner and belt kit, but it is rather expensive ~£200 plus fitting (around 4 hours labour). Mondeo's have the same problem but that kit doesn't fit the Jag.
Hope this helps
do a compression test ?? about 180lbs anything less and it could need a valve regrind ,if compression seems ok then plugs and leads and use the bosch plugs with the 3 electrodes (for voltswagon) champion are **** and missfire.if still persists change dist cap and leads
Hi the idler valve has a set up with jag equpment but there is a way round this,ifyou have had O2 sensors changed, is the idler working what are the revs when hot. 650 is to low 850 is ok with a hot engine Mike do you know where the idle valve is and the allen key manual adjustment try a quarter turn but mark it so you can turn it back if need be. let me know how it goes D
Have you tried to take off the plugs for a couple of mins and then take it back? You must have fed your car up(but I'm not 100% sure). I mean there's too much petrol in the plugs already. When you have sorted out and everything's fine here's another idea to prevent this problem again. When you switch the engine off don't rev and when you switch it on let it start. Don't turn it off when the engine's just about to run. I hope it'll help. Drive carefully!
I have a 94 4.0L and I use 10W-40 in the winter and 20W-50 in the summer. It keeps the pressure up and it doesn't smoke when I start it because of the valve seals. It takes 8 quarts everytime including the filter. 2 gallon jugs. I change it about every 4,000 miles.