Question about 2002 Chrysler Town & Country
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Posted on Aug 24, 2008
2001 town & country. My airbag/seat belt light came on, cruise control and horn stopped working. Dealer said it was the "clock spring" and usually covered as a recall item.
Posted on Sep 08, 2008
I've leased two Town and Country vans over the past 4 years, and actually purchased the latest one after the lease. In both vans the sliding doors, normally the drivers side, reacted teh same way. If the door was closed it would open, stop a one point, and then return to the open position. At times I could get it close. But over time the doors stoped working all together.
It is not due to the switch or the motor. Most cases like this (in in both of mine) it is due to the repetitive use of that door, and the realitive inflexibility of the wire harness. Over time, and with more uses (in my case the driver side sliding door was used alot) the wire in the harness fails. Picture it as a willow branch. One snapped off of a tree it first is green and flexible, and bends pretty well into any form. But over time, with age and repetitive bending, it will break.
The only recourse is a new harness, as the wire/wires are broken somewhere in the harness (the belt chain in the lower track of the door). I was temped to take it apart and try to repair it myself, but as the parts were under warranty (I have the extended 85,000 mile), I opted to have the professionals handle it. The repair without the warranty is under $200 typically (parts and labor). Good luck.
Posted on Oct 09, 2008
It does have air conditioning installed. It may also have rear a/c. The rear a/c evaporator is probably leaking freon. I have replaced many rear evaporators on 2006 and 2007 Chrysler minivans as a result of a design change in 2006. Recharge the a/c and add dye to the system. If it has rear air, look behind the right rear wheel in the fender area under the car where the a/c lines go into the body.
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
Disclaimer: I am not a professional. This is an account of what I did to replace my DVD changer. If I had been offered the $450 installed option, I would have taken it.
According to the boys at Car Toys and the dealer, once these DVD changers go, they have to be replaced. The dealer quoted me $705, but I found one on E-bay from a highly rated seller for $400. I was able to pull out the DVD changer by popping off the trim betwee the DVD player and the cup holder, and then removing two screws. Note that it may help to remove the cup holder.
Once those two screws at the bottom are removed, it just takes a firm tug on console shell below the DVD player for the whole face of the console to come off. Disconnecting the airbag indicator connector will allow the console face to be pulled far enough away to get at the DVD changer. All connectors have a tab you need to press while pulling.
Two more screws need to be removed to get the DVD changer out. With those screws removed, another firm tug and wiggle will release the DVD changer. You'll probably hear a metal popping sound, which is just the rear grounding tab (I think that's what it is) pulling free from the cage.
Once you can reach the two wiring harnesses behind the DVD changer, pull on the wire bundle to give yourself some slack to work with, while not stressing the cable assemblies too much. Disconect the two connectors at the back of the DVD changer. At that point the DVD changer can be removed, and you can search on E-bay for the part number. My unit had a complete wiring diagram for the two connectors on the sticker, but I couldn't find anyone with the right connectors to install an aftermarket system.
I haven't received the new part yet, so I'm a little nervous about the correct order of connector installation. I'll probably pull the battery terminals while installing the new unit, but here is where you are on your own. Good luck.
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
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