Question about 2003 Acura 3.2CL

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When I plug something into my power outlet the fuse pops

I use an ac inverter that I plug into one of my power outlets and the 20 amp fuse blows. I have tighened the wires connected to the outlet. Now I'm running out of ideas.

Posted by Anonymous on

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5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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dustyboner
  • 356 Answers

SOURCE: power outlet

FRONT:
-blown No. 18 {15A) fuse in the under-dash
fuse/relay box.

REAR:
-blown No. 18 (15A) fuse in the under-dash
fuse/relay box.
- blown No.3 (10A)fuse in the under-dash fuse/
relay box.

6b06905.jpg(click for full-size)
8151be4.jpg(click for full-size)

Posted on Oct 24, 2008

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: navigation system, radio, front power outlet failure

The solution is to buy a new mini fuse (Blue #15) at an autonation or similar. Open the passenger side kick plate fuse box and pull out the fuse in position #9 (upper most left fuse). You will need needle nose pliers or tweezers etc... Insert new fuse and you are done. 50 cent repair and 30 seconds spent screwing with it. Enjoy! Oh, and don't worry about blowing it again. Best I can say is when starting the car, unplug the power sucking device like a radar. Once car is on you can re-insert it the radar. The initial jolt of powering everything on all at once is what blew your fuse in the first place. Get a few additional fuses to have on hand just in case.

Posted on Jul 17, 2009

  • 422 Answers

SOURCE: power outlet retaining colar has come off and

check the fuse in fuse box it usually called auxzillary power

Posted on Nov 20, 2009

MechxD
  • 87 Answers

SOURCE: My 02' mdx won't come

Here is an idea, when do you blow the fuse key on, key on engine running, key on engine running hitting the break pedal? Try and get the key on without blowing fuse if possible, then one at a time try those circuit loads ie: horn, brake pedal and so on, if you isolate which load is pulling to many amps(blowing fuse) unplug that load itself, then restart testing, see if fuse stays ok. You can also substitue the fuse with a circuit breaker and unplug each load until click(of breaker) stops.

Posted on May 17, 2011

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You have options there. First use a test light and probe the center terminal of the outlet. If it has power, check the ground on the socket. If no power, check the fuse. (if you have no diagram, probe all of them and replace any that don't have power at both ends with the key on, and replace any that are blown. the one you are looking for is usually 20 or 25 amp). Your other option is to create a new circuit. To do that, find an open fuse port that only has power with the key on. attach a wire (close to 14 gauge is best) to a spade connector and plug it into the fuse connection that has power. Run that wire to the connector at the rear of the accessory port (lighter housing center post). If you do that, make sure you install an accessory fuse holder in that wire that is rated at 25 amps. I use that method to install additional ports so you don't have to plug in one of those "octopus outlets" in a working power outlet. Only difference is that I also install a new lighter housing into the dash. That requires a new hole in the dash or console and a ground wire to the outside of the housing.

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