Question about Cars & Trucks
I need a transmission for 1992 Subaru Legacy L. fwd. non-turbo 4door sedan.At present time the yard I visited is out,but the item change over slip says it has to be 1992 only.What issues would I encounter if I used a 1990-1994 transmission because they all used the2.2 until 1995 when 2.5 came out?Even further there was a 93,94 and 99 impressa 2 had 1.8s but the 99 was bolted to a 2.2 liter engine.I'm no rocket scientist but what make these trannies non interchangable?Is it just the electronics only or is there something else going on here?
I have run into this same issue with the Ford AX4N, AXOD and others... I have a 2001 Mercury Sable right now that says it requires a very specific Transmission and the fact of the matter is this. Sensors/Cable Routing.... The Transmission is the same... Change over the Sensors from your transmission and there truly is not a difference.
Posted on May 04, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: transmission fault codes
doesnt anybody know how to retrieve the tcu fault codes on a 91 legacy awd 4EAT trans, And please dont dodge the question like everyone else has...you can get the process for later models,it has to do with ignition and the shifter.when you do this right,the led light on the tcu will blink out the codes.please steer me in the right direction,BUT not over a cliff i might try it at this point.......THANKS GUYS
Posted on Nov 07, 2008
Ok here's a couple helpfuls before i start if you have PB Blaster, that works great on spindle bolts. Another thing you will need is a long pry bar (maybe a crowbar if you had to) with a flat tapered end. You will need to remove your tire, spray the PB Blaster on the axle nut, and the 2 spindle bolts going through the strut.remove the axle nut, and the 2 spindle bolts, and seperate the strut from the spindle. Then swing the spindle and push down on it as you remove the axle spline from the hub. Once you do that, check the transmission side of the axle, to see if it has a "doul roll pin" that you need to tap out with a hammer and punch, but it may be the simple locking ring internaly at the end of the splined shaft. Then all you do is pry it back, make sure you have a very firm place to use for leverage, and give it a hard shove and it should pop right out. or you may need to repeat the prying step a few times. When installing the new axle, make sure it's snapped in completely on the transmission side so you don't damage it. Then all you need to do is reassemble it all.
Also when doing this, make sure you support the car by the body, behind the front wheel under the fender/door area. you will need to let the lower controal arm hang to do this.
Hope that does it for you,
Posted on Dec 14, 2008
find the dipstick ,its their somewhere lurking and yes the transmission fluid goes down the same hole ,,,chock drive wheels handbrake on warm engine(running) with reverse selected to check trans oil level
Posted on Dec 19, 2008
I know I will get some argument on this one, but regardless of what manufacturers recommend, the best possible lubricant is a good synthetic. They far exceed any manufacturers needs in both lubricity long life and resistance to thermal changes. they do not burn off or form deposits readily and work in any temperature climate. as far as rating, a 10-40 or 50 works for everything. With synthetics those #s are almost a decoration on the can because in reality they cover a far larger span. Personally I would not use mobil1 (too much additive package not enough real stuff) on the other end, amsoil is one of the best (they even offer a 0w50 oil)
Whatever you use make sure you keep it clean. A good oil filter is essential and if extending oil change intervals, you can just change filter and any oil lost.
I know I've ranted, but the actual lab testing results and notes I've made over the years is far longer!
good luck whatever you decide on!
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
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