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Re: Gas gauge reading is erratic.
Your sending unit is getting flaky - it's a known issue. You can repair it though, rather than buy a new sender.
Do not do this job with any more than a 1/4 tank of gas or you'll get a fuel bath in the trunk.
Here's a DIY procedure on how to do it - 99% of the time on these cars, when there's a gas gauge issue, it's the broken wire they show in the procedure. I was out of solder at the time I fixed mine, so I used barrel clamp connectors to crimp a jumper wire into place on the broken ends of the wire, and that fixed it permanently.
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If your fuel gauge is showing you in accurate readings this is normal to all vehicles that are not used to fill-up gas full regularly but sometimes the cause of the inacuracy is due to faulty float valve in the gas tank you need to replace it
sounds like a faulty sender unit or your just realy low on fuel before you spend any money on repairs try filling the tank up with fuel as if its been low for a long time the sender unit in the tank may be sticking the fuel will lube it and may start working again
If the trouble with the gauge started after you worked on it then you likely damaged or created a restriction to the movement of the sending unit. You will have to remove the tank and double-check your work.
Digital gauge also gets its input for fuel level from a float in the tank. Here the culprit can be that float because the error is systematic i.e., full on empty and empty on full/half. If the reading was erratic then it was something to do with IC in the bars display panel.
hello, it sounds like it has something to do with your fuel sending unit located inside your gas tank,on the sending unit it has a float arm that reads the fuel level, some times that float arm gets jammed and wont show your actual fuel level,to fix this with your gas tank at least half full use a rubber mallet or any other object that wont damage the tank and with your key in the start position with the car not running but reading your gages hit the gas tank not to hard but hard enough to lodge the float arm loose, if this is unsuccessful then it will probably be a bad fuel sender location sensor located on the actual fuel sender if that's the case you'll need a new fuel sender. good luck and please send me a update or any questions let me know.
This is a normal concern.
The instrument cluster uses 4 different operating modes to calculate the fuel level:
Anti-slosh (default mode) Key OFF fueling Key ON fueling Recovery After a fuel fill up, the time for the fuel gauge to move from empty (E) to full (F) ranges from 2 seconds to 55 minutes depending on which operating mode the fuel gauge is in.
The default fuel gauge mode is called the anti-slosh mode. To prevent fuel gauge changes from fuel slosh (gauge instability due to changes in fuel sender readings caused by fuel moving around in the tank), the fuel gauge takes approximately 55 minutes to go from empty (E) to full (F).
The key OFF fueling mode (2 seconds to read empty [E] to full [F]) requires 3 conditions be met:
The key must be in the OFF position throughout the entire refueling of the vehicle. At least 15% of the vehicle's fuel capacity must be added to the fuel tank. The instrument cluster must receive a valid key ON fuel sender reading within 1 second of the key being put into the RUN position. The key ON sample readings are considered valid if the fuel sender reading is between 15 ohms ± 2 ohms and 160 ohms ± 4 ohms. If these conditions are not met, the fuel gauge stays in the anti-slosh mode, which results in a slow to read full (F) event.
The key ON fueling mode (approximately 90 seconds to read empty [E] to full [F]) requires 3 conditions be met:
The transmission is in PARK (P). The key is in the RUN position. At least 15% of the vehicle's fuel capacity must be added to the fuel tank. In key ON fueling mode, a 30-second timer activates after the transmission is put into the PARK (P) position (automatic transmissions). When the 30-second time has elapsed and at least 15% of the vehicle's fuel capacity has been added, the fuel gauge response time is 90 seconds to read from empty (E) to full (F). When the transmission is shifted out of PARK (P), the fuel gauge strategy reverts to the anti-slosh mode. The key on refueling mode prevents slow to read full events from happening if the customer refuels the vehicle with the key in the RUN position.
Recovery mode is incorporated into the instrument cluster strategy to recover from a missing fuel level input during a refueling event. Missing fuel level inputs result from intermittent opens in the fuel sender or its circuits. Recovery mode (empty [E] to full [F] approximately 20 minutes) is initiated when the following 2 conditions are met:
The instrument cluster is in the anti-slosh (default) mode. The actual fuel level in the tank is greater than what is being displayed by the fuel gauge
That link shows you how to replace the sender. However, 99% of the time the sender can be fixed easily. When you have it out, you'll see that there's a wire that is broken (plainly visible). Use a barrel crimp connector to fix it, or use two of them to install a jumper wire between the two broken ends, and then reinstall it. You don't have to route the wire under the boom of the sender float arm - I'm not sure why Audi did that but it doesn't have to be done. Just make sure that wherever you position the wire, it doesn't interfere with anything on the sender. This is a fix about 99% of the time - this failure is common on the A4 and this is almost always the fix.