Question about Cars & Trucks
Started drove it 30 miles and 4 hours later would not start left it set for 3 days went back started right up. Then it has done the sa,e thing 2 more times and wont start at all now
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It sounds like it may be a problem with the PATS (Passive Anti Theft System). Chevy has been having problems with PATS since 1992 til current. Even if your key doesn't have a visible "chip" in it, it is possible that you have the PATS system. The newer PATS systems work by recognizing the exact cut of the key. In some cases extremely worn out keys have been known to stop working correctly with your ignition. In worst case scenarios the ignition cylinder itself, which contains the other chip for PATS, wears out so badly that, one time in ten or more your vehicle doesn't recognize the key and fails to start. The logic is this: If a thief tries to jimmy the ignition, the PATS system shuts down the ignition system for 20 minutes (30 on some vehicles). This is supposed to discourage the thief from trying again, while still letting you start your vehicle. There are procedures for bypassing the PATS system on many vehicles, but it is not for the faint of heart. The wiring work itself isn't bad, but there are catches: 1) you must have the vehicle running while you make the modification in most cases, and not shut it off during the bypass. 2) It's recommended you install a switch in the bypassed wire so you can disable your bypass in case your vehicle needs service. 3) if the vehicle dies during the bypass for some reason, you may have to visit the dealership and get a new ignition cylinder, and a quick reprogram of the PCM or ECU to get it going again. (Pricey)
Posted on Feb 06, 2009
Hello carol...from the symptons you describe more than likely it's the CPS (crankshaft position sensor.)
The CPS is a common problem on Cateras with these symptoms.
The sensor is a magnetic impulse type that sends a signal to the computer, the computer then triggers the fire signal. When the CPS gets weak, dirty or has low voltage the intermitten no starts occur. It will finally result in a no start at all...Please be aware that a lot of caddy dealers will and have overcharged customers for this common problem by ill advise and replaceing uneeded componets.
Good luck...i hope this helps and will fixya up.
Posted on May 22, 2009
Change your fuel filter, it may have gone it's life time and is getting to dirty to let fuel flow properly. Your fuel pump to may be getting weak, if the fuel filter is dirty the pump works harder and heats up and could be over heating the fuel pump relay too. The fuel pump relay i believe is in the glove box behind a panel that say relay, there should be (3) in there and the middle one is the fuel pump's. switch then around after you change the fuel filter and if you get a chance, check your fuel pressure at the shredder valve. Good luck and hope this help's if there is a Auto Zone around you, you can ask to use the fuel pressure gauge to see what fuel pressure you have and they'll have the step by step instructions on how to do it and takes about 5 min to do and will have the fuel filter and step by step to replace that too. Keep me posted, be glad to help.
Posted on Jun 08, 2009
SOUND LIKE INOPERATIVE GLOW PLUGS. THE GLOW PLUG RELAY OR CONTROLLER COULD BE THE PROBLEM.LET DEALERSHIP FIX IT.YOU NEED CERTAIN TOOLS TO WORK ON DIESEL ENGINES.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
SOURCE: F150 cranks but wont start
Hi, You did not mention what size engine is in this vehicle or mileage, but your starting issue sounds like it is related to the ignition control module. I am assuming the fuel pressure is ok at this point. The control modules are known to act up over time and can cause a driveability problem that your experiencing. The module will look like this;
Posted on Mar 12, 2010
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