Question about 2000 Acura TL
Good morning, I am e-mailing you today because my SRS light is staying on my 2000 Acura TL. I have tried your way of using a wire that connect to the end of the MES Connector. I HAD NO LUCK!, so i took the car to the Acura dealer ship to see why the SRS light is staying on. They diagnosis and told me i would need to replace the main wire harness. I don't see this as the problem. The two codes that where retrieved from the dealer ship were code 2-5. Code 2 is a battery voltage out of range. code 5 is the relay chort to battery. So, i feel that the dealer ship is feeding me **** about the main wiring harness, and i think that it may be the battery relay. I would like to find out what you think. PS I replaced the driver side airbag and passanger airbag as well the computer modle. My e-mail address is email@example.com Thanks, Dave
you need a 6 inch extension, short 3/8 ratchet, 5/8 plug socket, 3/8 swivel "u" joint, (sold at sears) 8mm 1/4 drive socket deep well and 1/4 inch ratchet.
find the coil packs (6 total, three in each head.)
remove the two retaining nuts holding each coil pack using 1/4 8mm socket and ratchet.
twist the pack to break the sticking boot below.
pull up (be careful to not rip the boots however it may still happen but rare.)
remove coil packs, the rear is a little more difficult with the intake.
use 6" extension and u joint and ratchet to remove plugs and replace.
reverse order to assemble. Good luck, and hoped this helped.
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
there should be a belt diagram from a label either on underside of hood or on radiator support. That should help if you can do it yourself.
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
SOURCE: SRS light on 1997 acura CL
check the alternator voltage if thats ok then take it in to a body shop thank can check the light and fix it / Please rate my response thank you very much
Posted on Feb 01, 2009
This starter can be changed without disassembling the top of the engine on the 2.5 with automatic transmission. You will need a 10mm, 14 mm, 17mm, and a 9mm wrench. First with any electrical repair disconnect the battery at the negative terminal. The starter is on the driver's side close to the firewall below the intake manifold. Remove the transmission dip stick so you don't ruin it, then look and study the starter itself. You will notice the starter drive housing with a top and bottom bolt. The top bolt is a 14mm and the bottom a 17mm, loosen both a half turn. Remove the top 14mm bolt first, then the bottom 17mm, this will allow you to pull the starter out of the bell housing. With some angling and no brackets holding the back of the starter you should be able to pull it out enough to disconnect the positive wire and 9mm nut from the soleniod. Disconnect the starter ignition small wire by pulling it off it's connector. Now just pull it out of the engine and fender void and you've got it, saving about a hundred and fifty dollars of labor. Take it to the parts house and match it up with a well made remanufactured or new starter. Reverse the proceedure, hook up the battery.
Posted on Mar 19, 2009
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