Question about 1998 Volvo S70
The car runs very rough and stalls. I want ot check the timing. The car was running real good but after I parked it for a month the very rough running and stalling started.
You can not check the timing with a timing light. IPD has a Code Reader that will give a running diagnostic that includes Timing for $80 search ipdusa.
Posted on Jan 28, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1985 Volvo 240 no fuel no spark
well first the fuel pump relay is bad, that is easily replaced. next you have no spark. the first thing you do is take the cap off the distributerand crank the engine. if it spins that tell syou thyat at least the tang or gear on the shaft of the distributor is ok and not broken. next thing is remove the #1 plug and use a 1/4 drive extension 6" long and turn the crank by hand until the #1 cylinder is top dead center(put the extension in the hole of head where the plug was and you should feel the top of the piston also make sure you can feel the top of the piston with half the extension this way you don't drop it in the cylinder with the piston at TDC(top dead center) the rotor of the distributor should be pointed at the #1 firing position. IF it does not that means your timing is off and you need to retime it by taking off timing cover and either replacing the belt/chain or gears. now if you do not have a distributor and you have a coil pack there could be only 2 things that won't give spark. either a bad coil or your altenater is bad(the battery is responsible for starting not running the vehicle like alot of people assume. the altenator energizes the coil which inturngives spark. hope this helps you please rate this thanks
Posted on Sep 07, 2008
SOURCE: Rough running after rain
Take some WD40 and spray it on the spark plug wires. If the problem goes away, then you have a bad wire/s. When it rains the moisture causes a misfire in the break in the wire. The WD40 disperses the water and give temporary relief. You can do this until you get a chance to change the wires. Once the car is running fine the problem should not come back since the heat of the engine will keep the wires dry.
Posted on Oct 02, 2008
If the air pump system is setting a fault, then the check valve is probably bad. If it is not addressed, eventually exhaust gases can run back through the air hose to the air filter housing and destroy the MAF sensor, causing these types of problems.
The fuel pump also fails and is a more likely cause of the stalling, and it wont set a code.
Posted on Feb 09, 2009
It could be a number of things. Fuel Flow problem, or electrical apparatus heats up and works inefficiently. You could start from the cheaper, less strainous solutions, in this order: Change Fuel Filter, and clean Nozzles. Fuel Pump, Air Mass Meter.
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
The 850 is equipped with an Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) which supplies the engine with air when idleing (a necessity since the main throttle body valve is completely closed when no throttle is applied, thus the engine would lack air without the IACV when idleing). The IACV is suspended in a rubber mount on the front of the throttle body itself, and is easily removed and inspected/cleaned. If it's dead a good cleaning usually gets it going again. Also make sure that the air from the IACV is unhindered on its way from the IACV to the throttle body (it's actually common for the holes in the throttle body to be gunked up so bad by hardened carbon deposits that one sometimes needs a nail or even a drill to open it up again).
Just thought I'd mention this since you said that the gas needs to be feathered for the engine to start. When you press down on the gas the main valve in the throttle body opens up, closing the IACV and supplying the engine with enough air.
Oh and if your fuel pump relay is a green one marked 103 you should replace it with the new and improved red one. The relay is located under the fuse box cover under the hood. Remove the 4 torx srews holding the cover in place and you'll see the relays under there.
Good luck mate!
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
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