I have checked the fuses, all ok. I replaced the horn unit thinking that might be the problem but this did not fix. removed the steering wheel and cleaned all the contacts and the wiring seems to be fine but the horn is still not working. Any ideas. Thanks.
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Re: merecedes sprinter 313 cdi. horn not working.
The wiring loom that runs down the front near the radiator and intercooler is prone to rubbing and corroding and shorting out. Check this loom.
If it is in bad shape i'd recommend replacement as the turbo boost sensor wiring and some of the headlamp wiring is in this loom also, and these can cause costly problems and cause the turbo to fail if not replaced.
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Do you get a click when you press the button? The relay should be audibly clicking if it's working.
If it is clicking then I'd check the horn itself, might be bad or have loose connection. If no clicking sound at all then I'd suspect bad relay or fuse (if it has a dedicated one), also possibly bad switch.
Horns are pretty simple units and don't need to feed through the ECU.
When you say you have checked the wiring and tested it, do you mean the wiring at the horns? or the wiring at the horn button on the steering wheel pad or where ever your horn button is located?
Sometimes the horn button breaks usually due to wear, If that is the case you will need to remove the horn pad or button and check/repair or replace. If this is working then most likely your horns are dead, not usual as they are fairly robust but not unheard of.
I am assuming you have checked the Fuse Box under the hood for the Horn Fuse and / or the Horn Relay and made sure both are good?
You can always try the steps outlined in this video to replace the horn pad. to see if this is your issue if you have exhausted all of your other resources.
Or You can try these steps to further diagnose your issues:
The horn relay on ZX2's is located underneath the dashboard on the
drivers side. There are several relays located there - identify the horn
relay by the "clicking" sound it makes when the horn is pressed. The
likelyhood that you have a bad relay is minimal. Start by checking the
horn fuse (the fuse box is located under the dash on the driver side).
Next, check the relay. If the relay is making a clicking noise, it is
probably OK. The next thing to check is the horn itself. it is located
on the passenger side of the vehicle, up underneath the front bumber.
Most instructions say to remove the bumber cover to get to the horn, but
this is not neccesary. In my experience with Escort horn problems, the
problem has been with the horn "switch", a wafer thin piece of plastic
that lies between the steering wheel cover and the airbag assembly.
Below are instructions for replacement of this switch - don't be
intimidted by the procedure - it is not difficult.
You cannot buy a horn switch at a dealer - they tell you that the horn
switch is part of the airbag assembly, which cost $450 plus.
Understandably, Ford doesn't want people "messing around" with airbags.
Go to a junk yard - you can eazily find and remove the horn switch from
an Escort who's airbags have already deployed. I bought two of them for
$5. Identify and remove the junkyard horn switch by reading step 7
below. This is an eazy fix if you follow these instructions. Should take
about 10 minutes. I replaced my "stuck" 97 Escort horn switch as
1) Disconnect negative battery cable, wait for at least 1/2 hour for
residual power discharge before proceeding to net step (IMPORTANT!).
This will disable the airbag. Neglecting this step could cause serious
injury or death!
2) Remove two 10mm bolts directly behind the steering wheel - one on left, one on right. These secure the airbag unit.
3) carefully lift the airbag unit out of the steering wheel.
4) remove two small star-screws at bottom of airbag unit using star end
screw driver - the horn wires enter the airbag unit next to these screws
5) pry the airbag cover (this is the front part of the steering wheel
cover with the horn picture on it) off of the plastic tabs of the airbag
unit, on the left & right sides - should come off very eazily.
6) now you can lift the airbag cover up (there are three rivets that continue to hold the top portion of the cover in place)
7) the horn switch, which is covered by a thin layer of dark foam, is a
very thin plastic pad with two wires coming out (same wires as step 4).
You can see wafer thin copper strips inside the plastic. The switch is
held in place by three small plastic tabs. Remove the switch and
disconnect the wires at the red connector inside the steering wheel.
8) replace horn switch with junkyard switch
9) re-assembly is the reverse of the removal.
This procedure should apply to 97 through 2002 Escorts, including the ZX2. Hope this helps someone save some money.
CHECK HORN FUSE AND HORN RELAY.IF BOTH FUSE AND RELAY CHECK OUT OKAY.YOU WILL TO REPLACE STEERING WHEEL AIRBAG BECAUSE STEERING WHEEL AIRBAG HORN BUTTONS BUILT IN THE AIRBAG.YOU HAVE TO BUY THE WHOLE UNIT.NOT A CHEAP FIX.
I have or should say had same issue on 1996 cirrus quick fix just remove the HORN RELAY located on the left side of dash relay only controls horn. To really solve the issue at hand you must replace the clock spring on the steering wheel dis-arm air bag before messing with steering wheel to avoid activation of air bag disconnect battery for 10 min then its safe to fiddle with steering wheel safely. Chino S.G.V
this is caused by a defective/shorted rotating ribbon contact under the steering wheel called a clock spring, to replace this part u must disarm the airbag remove it and the steering wheel and then replace the clock spring, this is a dealer only part.
If the horn works with direct connection, and fuse, relay, and circuit breaker are all good, it's the switch in the steering wheel. If it is anything like the chrysler auto's, the switch and the air bag module is all one unit, can't replace just the switch, the whole thing, and it's about $700 to $800 for those units, at least it is here, and can only get them at a dealer.