Question about Cars & Trucks
Your heater core is possibly stopped up if there has been a radiator leak and stop leak has been poured its definetly clogged or could be a faulty thermostat
Posted on Jan 07, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had similar problem on my 2001 Insight. Had to replace some cooling system hoses eaten by rodents... Works like a champ again.
Posted on Mar 19, 2009
on the bottom of the heater case is a vaccum door right on top of the hump it has a white plastic adaptor that breaks replace with dealer part it just pops off
Posted on Apr 16, 2009
Since warm air eventually comes out when the vehicle is in motion, you may have an air mix door that is stuck in fresh or is somehow blocking warm air from the heater core.
To see if the air mix control motor is bad, you need to retrieve your Diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) from the heater control panel. To run the diagnostic function, do the following:
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
2. Turn the fan switch OFF.
3. Press the recirc control button to select Recirc (recirc light on.)
4. Press and hold the recirc button to select Fresh (recirc light off) and continue to hold the button down until the recirc light comes on for two seconds and then goes off.
5. If the system is okay, the recirc light stays off.
6. If there is a problem, the recirc light blinks the DTC to indicate the trouble. One blink=a problem in the air mix control motor circuit. Two blinks=problem in the mode control motor circuit
Three blinks=problem in evaporator temp sensor circuit.
7. Turn the ignition switch off to cancel the self diagnosis function. Run the diagnostic again after repairs are complete.
Note: the air mix control motor has a rod which connects to a plastic link. The link controls the mix doors and also connects to the heater control water valve via a cable. The air mix motor may check okay, but if the link is broken then you will still have problems. the motor is on the bottom of the heater unit in the front passenger's foot well.
Posted on May 11, 2009
the vents are run on vacuum so if you get the others just not vent sounds to me like you need to find your junction and see if all the hoses are hooked up. mine was passenger side above where ur feet go. All that usually happens is a hose came off and u need to put it back on sometimes they break but u will be able to see once u find it.
Posted on Jun 07, 2010
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Feb 10, 2013 | Cars & Trucks
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Hot starting problems are usually fuel related. When a hot engine is shut off, the temperature of the engine and everything on it continues to rise for awhile as the engine undergoes a period of "heat soak." This can cause fuel to boil inside the carburetor bowl, fuel lines and fuel filter. When you attempt to restart the engine, "vapor lock" obstructs the flow of fuel and the engine doesn't want to start.
This is much less of a problem on fuel injected engines because the fuel is usually under much higher pressure inside the injectors and fuel line. Even so, a fuel line routed near an exhaust manifold or a fuel rail that's exposed to a lot of heat may still suffer the same kind of problems.
Heat soak problems such as these can sometimes be cured by wrapping insulation around affected fuel lines, and/or installing an insulating spacer or heat shield under the carburetor.
A Seasonal Problem
Hard hard starting tends to be a seasonal problem, but may be worse in the early months of spring when refiners are switching fuel blends. Gasoline refiners produce fuel with a slightly lower volatility rating (called "Reed vapor pressure") during hot summer months because lower volatility fuel is less likely to boil and cause hot starting problems. During the winter, they switch to a higher volatility fuel because it makes cold starting easier. But if you still have "winter" grade fuel in your tank when warm spring weather arrives, you may experience some hot starting problems. The problem will go away, however, as soon as the refiners in your area switch to their summer grade fuel.
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