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2002 sebring 2.7 intake plenum manifold removal for removal of timing chain

Posted by Anonymous on

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 91 Answers

SOURCE: Need informtion removing the Intake Manifold on

Removing the intake is no prob. on these. Assuming this is a non turbo model, you remove the two bolts holding the egr tube flange at the back of the intake. You will have a couple wire clips you need to dissconect and small vacum hoses that will be easily noticable as you try to move the intake aside, but there is a row of small bolts at the front inbetween the intake rails holding the upper intake to the lower. Seperate the manifold by removing these bolts. it has rubber gaskets that stay right with the manifold you do not need to replace at reassembley. This will allow you to move it far enough to change the plugs. Hope this helps.

Posted on Mar 22, 2009

  • 7353 Answers

SOURCE: very unusally low gas mileage.

There is no code that says " crack in plenum" so what was the code? is the light still on? Was the plenum replaced?

Posted on Mar 13, 2010

SOURCE: WHAT ARE THE TORQUE SPECS FOR THE INTAKE MANIFOLD

Sorry first attempt got sent by accident

Upper intake manifold bolts/nuts 168 in-lbs

Lower intake manifold nuts are done in 4 steps

Step1. Front nuts 61 in-lbs
Step2. Rear nuts 185 in-lbs
Step3. Front nuts 185 in-lbs
Step4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3

Posted on Feb 23, 2011

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1 Answer

In need the torque for the bolts to the plenum


intake manifold upper and lower 89 in. lbs.

Jan 11, 2013 | 1998 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

Im trying to change my alternator on my 97 chrysler sebring coupe lxi but it seems impossible to do it without taking other parts off to get it out and also put the new one in because its real compact


Hi there:
Check this procedure on 2.5L (VIN N) Engine...


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the right side under cover.
  3. Remove the speed control vacuum reservoir and related components as required for alternator access.
  4. Remove the power steering pump cover.
  5. Remove the A/C compressor drive belt.
  6. Remove the alternator/power steering pump drive belt.
  7. Remove the intake manifold plenum.
  8. Remove the upper alternator bracket.
  9. Remove the intake manifold plenum stay.
  10. Detach the electrical connections at the alternator.
  11. Unfasten the upper and lower bolts and remove the alternator. Be very careful not to damage neighboring components while removing the alternator.


8_22_2012_2_51_45_pm.gif

Fig. 8: Alternator assembly installation-2.5L engine (VIN N) - Zoom Image link HERE


To install:

  1. Connect the wiring to the alternator.
  2. Place the alternator on its lower bracket and install the upper and lower bolts finger-tight.
  3. Install the upper alternator bracket.
  4. Install the alternator/power steering pump belt, making sure it is properly seated.
  5. Adjust the drive belt to the correct tension using the belt adjuster, then tighten the upper mounting bolt to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) and the lower mounting bolt to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
  6. Install the intake manifold plenum.
  7. Install the intake manifold plenum stay.
  8. Install the A/C compressor drive belt.
  9. Install the power steering pump cover.
  10. Connect the negative battery cable.
  11. Check the charging system operation.



Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

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Aug 22, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

How to replace a intake plenum gasket


Well basically, you remove the intake plenum and replace the gasket and reinstall the plenum. Here are the steps:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the remote jumper terminal located at the right strut tower.
2. Remove the air inlet resonator and tube.
3. Remove the throttle actuator cables from the throttle arm and bracket.
4. Disconnect Secondary Runner Valve (SRV), Manifold Tuning Valve (MTV), Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), Idle Air Control (IAC) motor electrical connectors.
5. Remove the electrical connector and the Intake Air Temperature/Manifold Absolute Pressure (TMAP) sensor.
6. Disconnect vacuum hoses from the Secondary Runner Valve (SRV) reservoir, Speed Control reservoir, and PCV.
7. Remove right and left intake manifold supports.
8. Remove support brackets at the intake manifold front corners and MTV.
9. Loosen upper fastener attaching throttle body to support bracket.
10. Remove clips attaching EGR tubes to intake manifold.
11. Remove intake manifold bolts and manifold
12. Remove old gaskets, Clean gasket surfaces, and install new gaskets.
13. Reverse steps to reinstall manifold

Jun 16, 2012 | 1999 Chrysler 300M

1 Answer

Starter needs to be replaced. Need instruction procedure for a do it yourselfer.


Hi, I have pasted the procedure from autozone.com below. Because this requires removal of the intake manifold, please be as sure as possible that your starter needs replacement. If you have any doubt, please let me know what your symptoms are and what troubleshooting you have done that led you to believe your starter is bad. Also, if you have any questions about the procedure below, please let me know. Thanks for using FixYa.


Removal & Installation


Disconnect the Negative battery cable


Relieve the fuel system pressure (you can do this by placing a rag over the schrader valve on the fuel rail and pressing in the valve stem--just be careful not to spray fuel on your eyes).


Drain the cooling system.


Remove or disconnect the following:


  • Intake manifold heat shield
  • Sight shield
  • Coil module connectors from the coil modules located on the valve covers
  • Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose and valve from the valve cover
  • Fuel regulator vacuum tube
  • Vacuum tubes from the AIR solenoid
  • Fuel inlet and return lines
  • Fuel rail bracket retaining nut at the rear lift bracket
  • 2 pushnuts attaching the engine coolant heater wire and set it aside, if equipped
  • Fuel injector electrical connections
  • Fuel rail and injectors
  • Plenum duct clamp at the rear of the intake manifold, loosen
  • Intake manifold bolts and the manifold
Clean the manifold mating surfaces.


Remove or disconnect the following:
Starter electrical connectors Starter motor

jturcotte_1382.gif


Fig. View of starter motor removal and wires



To install:

Install or connect the following:

  • -S- terminal wire. Torque the nut to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
  • Starter electrical connectors. Torque the nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  • Starter motor
  • Mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).


jturcotte_1383.gif


Fig. Intake manifold torque sequence- 4.6L engines

  1. Grease the inside edge of the rubber plenum duct.
  2. Position the intake manifold by performing the following sub-steps:
    1. Place the rear of the intake manifold into the plenum duct.
    2. Place the front of the intake manifold downward on to the cylinder heads.

  3. Install the intake manifold bolts and torque to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) in the sequence illustrated. DO NOT torque the intake manifold bolts when the engine is HOT or at operating temperature.
  4. Make sure the plenum duct is fully attached to the rear of the intake manifold and tighten the plenum duct clamp to 20 inch lbs. (2.25 Nm).
  5. Install or connect the following:

    Fuel rail and injectors and tighten the rail retainers to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) Fuel injector electrical connections Alternator coolant pipe/surge tank pipe and position onto the fuel rail studs Engine coolant heater wire onto the studs and install the pushnuts, if equipped Fuel rail bracket retaining nut at the rear lift bracket and tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) Fuel inlet and return lines Vacuum tubes to the AIR solenoid Fuel regulator vacuum tube Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hose to the valve cover Coil module connectors to the coil modules located on the valve covers Sight shield Intake manifold heat shield Negative battery cable
  6. Fill and bleed the cooling system.

Mar 31, 2011 | 2002 Cadillac Deville

2 Answers

I'm in the process of replacing the thermostat on my 2003 freelander. finally got the coolant drained......that was fun. everything is disconnected and all intake plenum bolts removed( 4 small in the...


You will have to remove the intake manifold (this is the solid large plastic cover that covers the top of the engine when you remove the engine cover). There are many wires and small vacuum hoses to disconnect. Plus.., when re-installing, it is a common problem the manifold cracks if excessive torque is applied to the fastening bolts. And you probably should relpace the intake manifold gasket.You can then remove the thermostat assembly by disconnecting the hoses and loosening the mounting screw.

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The procedure as per service manual is as follows:----

Following the Service Manual instructions, drain the coolant circuit, then remove the return pipe and the short rubber hose connected to the engine main coolant rail (1 clip at the bottom + 1 clip at the top). You remove also the outlet hose (1 clip at the engine outlet spout + 1 clip at the bottom pipe, you need to loosen the pipe mount to remove the hose). Once removed the return pipe you can undo the coolant rail: 2 (tight) bolts below the rail and the oil dipstick bolt holding the thermostat housing. Doing this without the manifold in place is simple, but its not that easy with the manifold on.... once loosened the coolant rail you can remove the thermostat housing. You open it (3 bolts) and replace the old thermostat with new. All 3 gaskets should be replaced, to minimize the risk of leaks. Apply silicone lubricant on the O-rings, then fit housing + coolant rail back in.

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This will help you.Thanks.Helpmech.



Nov 16, 2010 | 2003 Land Rover Freelander

1 Answer

Need the torque specs for the upper intake bults on a 2002 chrysler sebring conv. 2.7L


4022caa.jpg

Fig. Intake manifold bolt torque sequence 2.7L engine

Upper intake manifold with a new gasket on the lower intake manifold and torque the bolts, in sequence, to: 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm)

Hope helps (remember to rate this answer). Good job.

Oct 11, 2010 | 2002 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

What is the torque for head screws and timing


300M, Concorde, Intrepid, LHS, 1998-2004 - Cylinder Head
Removal & Installation
2.7L Engines
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
  3. Drain the cooling system.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
    NOTE Place shop rags in the openings to prevent debris from entering the engine.
    Negative battery cable Accessory drive belts Crankshaft damper Intake plenum, lower intake manifold and exhaust manifold Valve and timing chain covers Coolant connections for the cylinder heads
  5. Rotate the crankshaft until the crankshaft timing mark aligns with the timing mark on the oil pump.
    WARNING Be sure the head bolts 9-11 are removed before attempting to remove the cylinder head, the head and/or block may be damaged.
    Primary timing chain Camshaft bearing caps, gradually, in the reverse order of the tightening sequence Camshafts Cylinder head bolts in reverse order of installation starting with bolts 11-9, then 8-1 Cylinder head(s)

To install:


af080a0.jpg

Fig. Camshaft bolt tightening sequence-2.7L engine

eb0ed0f.jpg

Fig. Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-2.7L engine
  1. Thoroughly clean and dry the mating surfaces of the head and block. Check the cylinder head for cracks, damage or engine coolant leakage. Remove scale, sealing compound and carbon. Clean the oil passages thoroughly.
  2. Place a new head gasket on the cylinder block over the locating dowels.
  3. Inspect the cylinder head bolts for necking (stretching) by holding a straightedge against the threads of each bolt. If all of the threads are not contacting the straightedge, the bolt should be replaced. New head bolts are recommended.
    WARNING Due to the cylinder head bolt torque method used, it is imperative that the bolt threads be inspected for necking (stretching) prior to installation. If the threads are necked down, the bolt should be replaced. Failure to do so may result in parts failure or damage.
  4. Lubricate the bolt threads with clean engine oil, then install them.
  5. Torque the head bolts in the sequence shown in the illustration, utilizing the following steps and tightening values:
    1. Step 1: bolts 1 through 8: 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm).
    2. Step 2: bolts 1 through 8: 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
    3. Step 3: bolts 1 through 8: 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
    4. Step 4: bolts 1 through 8: plus 90 degree turn using a torque angle meter.
    5. Step 5: bolts 9 through 11: 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).

  6. Install or connect the following:
    Camshafts, timing chain and sprockets Water connections to the cylinder head Valve and timing chain covers Crankshaft damper and torque the center bolt to 125 ft. lbs. (170 Nm) Lower intake manifold and intake plenum Exhaust manifolds Accessory drive belts Negative battery cable
  7. Fill the cooling system to the proper level.
  8. Start the vehicle, check for leaks and repair if necessary.
continue...

Apr 11, 2010 | 2002 Dodge Intrepid

1 Answer

How to fix a head gasket for 02 dodge intrepid


Do you mean replace the head gasket -- you can't fix them, you have to put in a new one. That requires removing the cylinder head(s), which requires removing the intake plenum, disconnecting the exhaust manifolds, and on the DOHC 2.7L engine, removing the timing chain -- a major undertaking. If you're asking how to do this, you probably should have a professional mechanic do it. It's not a simple job.

Oct 07, 2009 | 2002 Dodge Intrepid

2 Answers

Gettting the intake plenum off a 02 freelander


My 2002 Land Rover Freelander V6 thermostat crapped out as well and I decided to replace it myself.

The plenum is deceptive, but after 3 hours of looking and trying I finally got it off. Of course there are many hoses and electrical connections that need to be removed, but that's the easy part because you can see them all. The bolts that hold on the plenum are what your worried about and I will now tell you where they are. Read this and you should take about 30min to remove the plenum.

There are a total of 6 bolts to be removed that secure the intake plenum to the intake manifolds.

First remove the 4, 10mm large and obvious bolts at the top of the plenum. Now here is the tricky part, there are 2 bolts that are at the back of the plenum near the fire wall. As you are looking at the intake plenum from the front of the car, they are on the back side of the plenum near the fire wall on the passenger and driver side of the intake plenum.

Both bolts your looking for are 8mm bolts. If you remove a 10mm bolt, your removing the bolts that secure the rear spark plug coils.

The driver side rear intake plenum 8mm bolt is secured to the plenum itself. Fell with your hand about the back of the plenum on the right side for a lone bolt that is in the plenum with a metal tab that goes down to the back of the rear cylinder head. Remove the bolt that is attached to the intake plenum, not on the rear cylinder head

The passenger side one is a bit different. Feel on the back of the intake plenum about the passenger side for a metal support tab that comes down from the intake plenum and secures to the rear cylinder head. Where the support tab attaches to the head is a 8mm bolt that you remove.

Now here come the leap of faith. If you have the 4, 10mm obvious bolts removed and the 2, 8mm from the rear of the plenum removed, and if you can rock the plenum up and down about 2-3 inches,but it still feels like its attached to the intake manifolds in the middle of the engine, then you have removed all the bolts that secure the intake plenum to the engine. This is good.

The intake plenum is now being held on by the rear intake manifold by 3 O-ring gaskets. Push onto the back of the intake plenum near the firewall to expose a gap at the front of the intake plenum at the front intake manifold. Put 2-3 long flat screwdrivers into the gap or a small pry bar, and ever so gently but forcefully, apply prying force as to not damage the mating surface of the aluminum intake manifold, until the intake plenum pops off. It will just POP off.

Now that the intake plenum is popped off, take careful note of all the electrical plugs and hoses as to where they attach. You will not need any tools to disconnect the electrical plugs or hoses. To remove the hoses, push down the red ring with you fingers that the hose goes into and pull on the hose, it should come out very easily. The electrical connectors, push on the metal clip down and pull the connector loose. The electrical connectors only plug into their own plug, so you cant mess them up.

Tools you will need to replace the thermostat;

1. 8mm combo wrench. Make sure its not too long, shorter is better.
2. 10mm socket, shallow. 10mm combo wrench
3. 2-3 flat screwdrivers, for prying off the intake plenum
4. Ratchet wrench
5. 1 foot long worth of socket extensions. 2 6inch extensions will work as well
6. Universal socket joint
7. Angled needle nose pliers make it easier for hose clap removal, but straight needle nose pliers will work
8. Diagonal cutters to cut securing zip ties for the wiring harness

Take you time, once the plenum is off it goes pretty smooth after that. We removed just the forward intake manifold and that was more than enough clearance to remove the thermostat. You do not need to remove the fuel rail or spark plug coils from the manifold but you will need to disconnect the electrical connections to move the intake manifold out of the way.


Take pictures, there's a lot of hoses that go all over the place. The electrical connectors are only long enough to go where their supposed to go.

Then take that UK piece of **** to the dealer and trade it in for anything made in the USA or Japan. Changing a thermostat in any of those will only take 10 min and require 1 tool.

Repair provided by KPCYCLES.com of Honolulu, HI

Jun 24, 2009 | 2002 Land Rover Freelander

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