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Re: oil level light came on although engine has...
A Mechanic can remove the oil pressure sender and attach a gauge which can give you a read out of what the oil pressure is.
Having the oil in the crankcase and pumping it are 2 different things.
There are several reasons for low pressure; a bad oil pump or excess play in the bearings or possibly a plugged screen in the oil pump pickup.
In the old designs there were several places in the heads or block to test oil flow. These were of minimum benefit, the heads could be removed and cleaned, and sometimes it helped. But the block could be plugged too.
As for a quick fix, there is not a lot that is reliable. A solvent product like Risilone(may be spelled differently) can clean passages and thin the oil. This is not good for excess bearing play-oil pressure may drop. Then again for excess play in bearings a thicker oil would promote higher oil pressure.
So its a mixed bag for using additives. Shifting to ideal circumstances, you would get the oilpan off, remove the oil pump and guage its gears to determine if it is worn out. Since the bearings are accessible, it would be prudent to use plastic-guage and measure every bearing you can reach. Still, the camshaft bearings are too deeply buried to be measured.
Now your vehicle advertises a 100,000 mile warranty. Your time limit is 4 years into a 10 year time limit. So unless you have more than 100,000 miles on the vehicle, you may be able to Warranty this repair at NO cost to you.
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The oil light comes on when the oil pressure sensor detects low oil pressure. The amount of oil has little to with it, although very low oil levels can cause loss of oil pressure. The best thing to do is to have the engine's oil pressure checked with a mechanical oil pressure gauge to ensure that the oil pressure is sufficient at all operating speed and temperatures. If the oil light is still flashing on and off and there is no indication of low oil pressure by the gauge, then replacement of the oil pressure sensor is recommended.
To see if this is anything that you can repair, drain the oil, change the filter, put new oil back in. If the problem is still present, the oil pump may have failed or the pick up tube has come loose inside the oil pan.
Suggest you check your exhaust on startup, is it very steamed up.
Unless you see fluid on the ground after you have been driving, it may be being burnt inside the engine via a leaking head gasket, causing part of the head to misfire, 1 or 2 cyls. Is the oil milky? a sure sign of a leaking manifold gasket.
At the end of the day, the coolant must be going somewhere, if its not on the floor, its in the head/manifold. A manifold leak is not so bad, Head gasket is not so good..worth doing a compression test and block test if you can.Also, change the oil again and put in at lest 10W-30 weight, your car is too old for 5/20 5/30...Hope that helps..Tim
you need to go to a parts store and have your OBD scanned and it will give you a code and then you will no what the problem is. from what you are saying I highly recommend you go no where else except a parts store to get that scanned. Low oil pressure will destroy an engine.
also, if you damage a lifter, bend a valve, or throw a piston then you have to rebuild the engine.
ENGINE CLICKING NOISES A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts. First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear. COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise. VALVE LASH NOISE If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts. To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!). On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.
Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for rating my response and for using FixYa!
First check the oil level. Do this on a level surface. Make sure it's close to the full mark, or in the operating range on the dipstick. Next check to see how old the oil is. Is the vehicle well past it's scheduled oil change? If the above checks out, then I suggest the oil pump is bad. Oil light being on, and noisy hydraulic lifter noise is directly related to low oil pressure. The oil light should come on at 3 lbs of pressure.
Rule of thumb is 10 lbs. of pressure for every 1000 Rpm.
Vehicles have a by-pass valve in the oil system. This comes into play when the filter is clogged up. The oil flow goes past the filter.
This by-pass valve is usually located in the engine block, where the filter attaches. It's up in the block itself. Depends on the vehicle, as to whether this statement hold true. There are many designs for an oil system.
If engine is noisy then you have an actual oil pressure concern.Sending unit only reads the pressure. I would recommend you have an actual oil pressure test done to see what your oil pressure is.You didn't mention what engine you have but rule of thumb is 30 psi at 1500 rpm warm engine.