Question about 1990 Ford Bronco
1992 ford bronco, replaced ignition module,coil,cap and rotor, and control module but still won't start
If your fuel is running all the time the PCM is bad if you take your relay out and the fuel pump stays running its a short
Posted on Jan 28, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Have u checked for vacuum leaks or poss leaking EGR valve? use carb spray around the upper intake manifold where it bolts to the lower manifold, spray vacuum lines where they are connected to the engine vacuum ports, the idle speed will change if u hit a leak, as far as the EGR valve goes see if it gets hot at idle, if it does it is leaking, if all checks ok replace the O2 sensor, but i suspect u will find a leak at the upper intake plenum.
Posted on Jan 10, 2009
Check out your "fuel cut-off switch" located by the windshield washer tank behind the driver's side wheel-well panel in the trunk. It's a small box with a push-button at the top. If the button is "soft" when you push it, that's probably your problem. Replace the unit by removing the washer fluid tank first. The box simply plugs in. Probably about $ 100. I replaced three in my Probe. They rot out, and the car simple dies.
Posted on Nov 11, 2009
SOURCE: 1992 ford econoline van wont
how can you say that you have power going to the coil and lot leaving it and still say its good?
kinda answered your own question there i think
just my opinion...
hope this helps
Posted on Jan 23, 2011
check the wiring around the distributor i don't know how simular it is to a 1990 ford crown vicktoria 5.0 engine,
but on this car, there is a little two 2 prong plug beside the distributor no wires coming from the plug it's self , it plugs into the wiring harness it works like a fuse.
if you remove it or if it has melted the car WON'T START, no fire the link can be removed to keep the car from starting for testing purposes (fule pressure ect.)
when you wouldn't want the car to start
Posted on Sep 24, 2011
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