What will the throttle position sensor cause the truck to do if it's going bad? Right now the truck is idling a little weird, and i was told that it was the throttle sensor going bad. Also I'm seeing this part for sale on the internet but it looks sightly different, is this a universal type part, would i be safe getting the one i see on rockauto.com? (2004 f-150 4.6)
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code p 2104 refers to throttle actuator control(TAC) system--forced idle mode===causes ---wiring--TAC motor--ALL sensor--ECM
codes p 2111 refers to throttle actuator control (TAC) system--actuator stuck open====causes --throttle body--throttle valve tight tight/ sticking
also refers to TAC system --circuit malfunction=== causes wiring short to positive ---short to ground ---TP sensor ---ECM
also refers to brake vacuum---implausible signal====causes ---wiring--- vacuum sensor--- mechanical fault
You'd probably have to take it in to get it diagnosed, but I'm going to guess that it's the electronic throttle body. The throttle body and throttle position sensor are in the same unit and if one goes bad, you have to replaced the whole thing.
This will cause high idle, stalling, hard shifts and irratic throttle.
COULD BE CO2 SENSOR, MAF SENSOR BAD GASKET SEAL ON IN TAKE MANIFOLD
Older systems used an Idle Air control sloenoid, to control slight changes in air flow for idle and loads......also the throttle plate is controlled by a cable....
TAC systems(Throttle Actuator Control) have a motor in place of a cable, controlling throttle plate opening......and don't use an IAC valve......
TAC system......clean throttle plate and mating bore as best as possible......then with key out of ignition, disconnect the neg bat cable, and then the positive one....hold cables together for a minute.....this resets all modules......also makes sure the tube that goes from snorkle to the rear valve cover is intact.....
For cable throttle bodies, once again clean the throttle plate AND the mating bore.....also remove the IAC valve, clean the pintle and the mating passage......
Check for any possible vac leaks.....once again check the fresh air tube to make sure it is attached to the rear valve cover....
Look for vacuum leaks anywhere between the throttle plate/s and cylinder heads. Throttle body gasket or intake manifold gaskets could be bad. A vacuum hose could be bad. Also, try pinching the hose to the brake booster and seeing if the idle returns to normal. You can use aerosol carb cleaner to help find the leak. Spray a little around and listen for the engine speed to increase. When it does, you've found your leak.
You may also have a bad throttle position sensor and/or a bad coolant temperature sensor. Find a buddy with a scan tool and have them tell you what codes are stored. That should get you pointed in the right direction.
No mention of any diagnostic trouble codes so I would remove large rubber intake tube from air filter box to throttle body. Only remove from throttle body end lay out of the way. You willneed a can of carburetor cleaner and an old tooothbrush (not a little wire brush). Look inside throttle body and you will see the throttle plate. Reach and pull on throttle cable to open throttle plate fully. When open coat throttle plate good with carburetor cleaner, take toothbrush and scrub carbon deposits from throttle plate paying special attention to both sides. Carbon build-up in and around where throttle position sensor comes through inside of throttle body and connects to throttle plate causes throttle plate not to close completely when accelerator pedal released at idle. This can allow too much air into intake causing rough idle and also can cause Idle Air Control Motor not to be activated due to throttle plate not closing far enough for TPS to recognize throttle cable has been released. The IAC picks up and maintains engine idle until accelerator is depressed and TPS resumes engine rpm control depending on accelerator pedal pressure. It is also possible that IAC stepper motor is going bad. Normally if this occurs check engine light will illuminate with a diagnostic trouble code for IAC P0505, P0506, or P0510. Sorry it is so lengthy but pretty simple procedure. Hope it helps. ***Note*** Some throttle bodies have a wax pellet in bottom side of chamber so careful not to let carburetor cleaner puddle in bottom when sprayed.If cleaner is allowed to puddle and eat up the pellet you have to get another throttlebody. Pellet cannot be bought seperately. When you pull throttle cable you can stick a small rag down in there to catch excess cleaner.
MAF concerns the proper mixture of fuel, not the idle speed, so it is most likely all right (if it wasn't, your car would die before it reached 2000 RPM's). Idle speed is controlled by a small motor, generally mounted around the throttle plate. This is controlled by a computer, which judges idle requirements by the input from crank or camshaft position sensors. Make sure that all of your sensors are clean, and in proper operation.
The Throttle screw is located on the throttle (obiously) its in a clinderical shaped channel located on the throttle just oposite or obliquely opposite the the throttle body position sensor. In some mazda vehicles (IN TRINIDAD) you need to loosen the throttle body position sensor and slightle adjust it eighter to the right or left to tuen the idle (For electronic controlled axcelleration) in some cases it can be adjusted via an ODB2 diagnostic tool (only in some vehicles that has electronic controlled axcelleration)
You can tell what type your vehicle is by looking for an axcelleration cable connected to the throttle body. If the throttle body has a cable it isnt electronically controlled and has an idling screw. If there is no cable but wires to the position sensor its electronic.