Question about 1995 Chevrolet G20
Replace the leads with a heavier grade of lead insulation Use spacer bars to seperate the leads as the current will jump to the lead of lower resistance ( ie piston not in compression mode). Spark jumping will cause problems not the least being a blown motor through firing at the wrong time
Posted on Jan 06, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
fairly new won't quite do it. HEI ignition? They have a very hot spark and that hot spark burnsthe rotor in its center under the tang through to groung,advance weights. Change rotor and place some silicone on center of cap and the underside center. - Good luck. -Ned
Note, HEI ignition, coil is on top of distributor under a plastic cap.
Posted on Jun 23, 2009
SOURCE: chevy 350 no spark
check if the wires ends isn't corroded try to clean it if it corroded or not also try to determine its resistance by using th multimeter and check its resistance (wire resistance) try this link http://www.ehow.com/how_2296047_test-spark-plug-wire-car.html
Posted on Jun 11, 2009
Check your knock sensor, and timing.
The distributor is controlled by the computer and springs, I can't recall but I don't remember seeing springs in there. Regardless, check anyways to see if there is any binding to your counter weights in the distributor.
Start with finding out why your check engine light is coming on, this way there is no expensive guessing work. Here is a link for you to retrieve the DTC codes and post me back. Be glad to help you get your S-10 running 100% again soon.
Recheck your timing and you'd notice more difference if you increased your static timing advance from the stock setting of 10 Deg BTDC to 15 deg BTDC or so. Be sure when you adjust timing to disable the ESC circuit according to the manual. Otherwise the timing will be off scale and you won't even be able to see where it is with a timing lite.
The connector you're looking for is located in the passenger footwell, sometimes covered by the carpet/floor mat. It is a black connector, that has a tan/black wire in each side. Disconnect this wire and you will be able to see the base timing.
The ECM will control the timing with that wire connected. When it is disconnected the timing advance is controled strictly by the ICM (Ignition Control Module) located on the base of the dizzy.
How to set:
The vehicle emission control information label, which is found underhood, will often contain specifications or procedures for checking and adjusting timing that have been updated during production.
Set the parking brake and block the drive wheels, then warm the engine to normal operating temperature. Shut the engine OFF and connect the a timing light to the No. 1 spark plug (right front 2.8L engine, left front 4.3L engine or front plug on in-line engines):
If using a non-inductive type, connect an adapter between the No. 1 spark plug and the spark plug wire; DO NOT puncture the spark plug wire, for this will allow a voltage arc.
If using an inductive type, clamp it around the No. 1 spark plug wire.
If using a magnetic type, place the probe in the connector located near the damper pulley; this type must be used with special electronic timing equipment. Do not under any circumstances pierce the insulation of a spark plug wire in order to connect the timing light.
Clean off the timing marks, then label the pulley or damper notch and the timing scale with white chalk or paint for better visibility. If the timing notch on the damper or pulley is not visible from the top, the crankshaft should be bumped around using the starter or turned using a wrench on the front pulley bolt, in order to bring the mark to an accessible position.
Model vehicles equipped with EST, the electronic spark timing must be disabled or bypassed to prevent the control module from advancing timing while you are attempting to set it. This would obviously lead to an incorrect base timing setting.
There are 2 possible methods of disabling the EST system, depending on the type of engine:
On 2.5L engines, ground the "A" and "B" terminals on the ALDL connector under the dash before adjusting the timing.
On all other engines using the EST distributor, disengage the timing connector wire. On a few of the earlier model vehicles, the 4-terminal EST connector must be disengaged from the distributor, but most later model vehicles are equipped with a single wire timing bypass connector.
On these later model vehicles the bypass wire is usually a tan wire with a black stripe. This wire usually breaks out of the wiring harness conduit adjacent to the distributor, but on some vehicles it may break out of a taped section just below the heater case in the passenger compartment.
Start the engine, then check and adjust the idle speed, as necessary. The idle speed must be properly set to prevent any centrifugal advance of timing in the distributor.
Aim the timing light at the timing marks. Be careful not to touch the fan, which may appear to be standing still. Keep your clothes and hair along with the timing light's wires clear of the fan, belts and pulleys. If the pulley or damper notch isn't aligned with the proper timing mark, the timing will have to be adjusted.
TDC or Top Dead Center corresponds to 0° mark on the scale. Either B, BTDC, or Before Top Dead Center, may be shown as BEFORE on the scale, while A, ATDC or After Top Dead Center, may be shown as AFTER.
Loosen the distributor base clamp locknut. You can buy special wrenches which make this task a lot easier on certain models. Turn the distributor slowly to adjust the timing, holding it by the body and not the cap. Turn the distributor in the direction of rotor rotation to ******, and against the direction to advance.
Once the timing is properly set, hold the distributor to keep it from the turning and tighten the locknut. Check the timing again after finishing with the nut in case the distributor moved as you tightened it.
If applicable, remove the plug and connect the distributor vacuum hose.
Shut off the engine and reconnect the EST wire (if equipped), then disconnect the timing light and tachometer.
Also you may want to inspect the EGR to see if it's stuck, which may be causing our issue when the engine is under load.
Posted on Apr 19, 2010
tune up is likely what you need from description
Posted on Jun 15, 2010
Testimonial: "thanks for replying, thats what I thought too, but I have another question, I just added more comments to the prior comments, please read. thanks again. "
Here is the firing order for the 1994 Chevrolet Lumina APV Van with a 3.1 Liter engine with a distributor, and the 3.8 liter engine had the coil packs, and let me know if you need any help to understand this diagram, or if you require any further assistance.
Posted on Oct 19, 2010
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