Question about 1995 Chevrolet G20

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Sparks jumping from spark plug wires in 1995 chevy g20 van the wires are new and so are the plugs cap and rotor and coil

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  • Chevrolet Master
  • 42,120 Answers

Replace the leads with a heavier grade of lead insulation Use spacer bars to seperate the leads as the current will jump to the lead of lower resistance ( ie piston not in compression mode). Spark jumping will cause problems not the least being a blown motor through firing at the wrong time

Posted on Jan 06, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

co7196
  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: 1990 Chevy Silverado Pick-up. No spark from the plugs.

fairly new won't quite do it. HEI ignition? They have a very hot spark and that hot spark burnsthe rotor in its center under the tang through to groung,advance weights. Change rotor and place some silicone on center of cap and the underside center. - Good luck. -Ned
Note, HEI ignition, coil is on top of distributor under a plastic cap.

Posted on Jun 23, 2009

ghassun
  • 499 Answers

SOURCE: chevy 350 no spark

check if the wires ends isn't corroded try to clean it if it corroded or not also try to determine its resistance by using th multimeter and check its resistance (wire resistance) try this link http://www.ehow.com/how_2296047_test-spark-plug-wire-car.html

Posted on Jun 11, 2009

Molson02536
  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: 1991 chevy s10 4.3 v6 new rotor and cap new spark

Check your knock sensor, and timing.

The distributor is controlled by the computer and springs, I can't recall but I don't remember seeing springs in there. Regardless, check anyways to see if there is any binding to your counter weights in the distributor.

Start with finding out why your check engine light is coming on, this way there is no expensive guessing work. Here is a link for you to retrieve the DTC codes and post me back. Be glad to help you get your S-10 running 100% again soon. eek.gif

http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
Recheck your timing and you'd notice more difference if you increased your static timing advance from the stock setting of 10 Deg BTDC to 15 deg BTDC or so. Be sure when you adjust timing to disable the ESC circuit according to the manual. Otherwise the timing will be off scale and you won't even be able to see where it is with a timing lite.

The connector you're looking for is located in the passenger footwell, sometimes covered by the carpet/floor mat. It is a black connector, that has a tan/black wire in each side. Disconnect this wire and you will be able to see the base timing.

The ECM will control the timing with that wire connected. When it is disconnected the timing advance is controled strictly by the ICM (Ignition Control Module) located on the base of the dizzy.

How to set:
The vehicle emission control information label, which is found underhood, will often contain specifications or procedures for checking and adjusting timing that have been updated during production.

Set the parking brake and block the drive wheels, then warm the engine to normal operating temperature. Shut the engine OFF and connect the a timing light to the No. 1 spark plug (right front 2.8L engine, left front 4.3L engine or front plug on in-line engines):

If using a non-inductive type, connect an adapter between the No. 1 spark plug and the spark plug wire; DO NOT puncture the spark plug wire, for this will allow a voltage arc.

If using an inductive type, clamp it around the No. 1 spark plug wire.
If using a magnetic type, place the probe in the connector located near the damper pulley; this type must be used with special electronic timing equipment. Do not under any circumstances pierce the insulation of a spark plug wire in order to connect the timing light.

Clean off the timing marks, then label the pulley or damper notch and the timing scale with white chalk or paint for better visibility. If the timing notch on the damper or pulley is not visible from the top, the crankshaft should be bumped around using the starter or turned using a wrench on the front pulley bolt, in order to bring the mark to an accessible position.


Model vehicles equipped with EST, the electronic spark timing must be disabled or bypassed to prevent the control module from advancing timing while you are attempting to set it. This would obviously lead to an incorrect base timing setting.

There are 2 possible methods of disabling the EST system, depending on the type of engine:

On 2.5L engines, ground the "A" and "B" terminals on the ALDL connector under the dash before adjusting the timing.

On all other engines using the EST distributor, disengage the timing connector wire. On a few of the earlier model vehicles, the 4-terminal EST connector must be disengaged from the distributor, but most later model vehicles are equipped with a single wire timing bypass connector.

On these later model vehicles the bypass wire is usually a tan wire with a black stripe. This wire usually breaks out of the wiring harness conduit adjacent to the distributor, but on some vehicles it may break out of a taped section just below the heater case in the passenger compartment.

Start the engine, then check and adjust the idle speed, as necessary. The idle speed must be properly set to prevent any centrifugal advance of timing in the distributor.

Aim the timing light at the timing marks. Be careful not to touch the fan, which may appear to be standing still. Keep your clothes and hair along with the timing light's wires clear of the fan, belts and pulleys. If the pulley or damper notch isn't aligned with the proper timing mark, the timing will have to be adjusted.

TDC or Top Dead Center corresponds to 0° mark on the scale. Either B, BTDC, or Before Top Dead Center, may be shown as BEFORE on the scale, while A, ATDC or After Top Dead Center, may be shown as AFTER.

Loosen the distributor base clamp locknut. You can buy special wrenches which make this task a lot easier on certain models. Turn the distributor slowly to adjust the timing, holding it by the body and not the cap. Turn the distributor in the direction of rotor rotation to ******, and against the direction to advance.

Once the timing is properly set, hold the distributor to keep it from the turning and tighten the locknut. Check the timing again after finishing with the nut in case the distributor moved as you tightened it.
If applicable, remove the plug and connect the distributor vacuum hose.
Shut off the engine and reconnect the EST wire (if equipped), then disconnect the timing light and tachometer. biggrin.gif

Also you may want to inspect the EGR to see if it's stuck, which may be causing our issue when the engine is under load.

Posted on Apr 19, 2010

samtoler
  • 666 Answers

SOURCE: 1991 Chevy Caprice, V8 5.0L, throttle body

tune up is likely what you need from description

Posted on Jun 15, 2010

Testimonial: "thanks for replying, thats what I thought too, but I have another question, I just added more comments to the prior comments, please read. thanks again. "

  • 834 Answers

SOURCE: I just changed the plugs and wires on a 94 Chevy

Here is the firing order for the 1994 Chevrolet Lumina APV Van with a 3.1 Liter engine with a distributor, and the 3.8 liter engine had the coil packs, and let me know if you need any help to understand this diagram, or if you require any further assistance.


5b212ce.jpg

Posted on Oct 19, 2010

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1995 jetta 3 spark goes into the distributor from the coil, but does not reach the plugs


Do you mean you can take off the coil to dist. high tension cable at the distributor end, and you get spark from the coil? If the spark is strong and blue, then the only thing between that and the spark plug wire end is the distributor cap and rotor. Both are high wear items, good to replace them every hundred thousand or two. Miles, that is.

An ignition system has a primary and a secondary circuit. The secondary circuit is the high voltage coming out of the coil to the top of the distributor, where it touches the top of the rotor, and the current is passed from the center of the rotor to the tip, where it whisks by the metal tip on the dist. cap where a spark plug wire connects. So a continuous current from the coil to the individual spark plug wires, and to the plugs. It's only an instant, but it's a current flow from origination in the coil to ground. When the current reaches the bottom of the spark plug, it has to jump a gap to find a ground. When it jumps, it conveniently makes a spark.

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I guess you could have the ignition analyzed on an oscilloscope. Maybe a tech could see something then.
I always heard the only gap was the spark plug gap-the rotor has no gap-are you sure you got the correct rotor? And does it touch the top distributor cap coil wire tower?

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well you didn't say what year it was , keeping that in mind I will try to respond with the info you did give. Generally the Chevy G20 vans have a coil mounted in the distributor itself, so having spark comming from the coil would mean it is not flowing through the rotor to the plug wires..... not sounding right to me either,... Possibly just a bad Distributor cap unless you have already replaced it. So I would have you look at the Ignition module first and the pick up coil second.. not mush else it could be ( ruling out a broken timing chain ) If it is a newer vehicle , it may have a crank position sensor failing or ecm.

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1/ Have you fitted the spark plug leads in the proper firing order.
2/ Look inside the top of distributor Top (this is not the first time a new distributer cap has very small crack) or the rotor arm is fitting the cap properly. Hope this helps Best Wishes, Malcolm Campbell.

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