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TOYOTA HZJ75 troop carrier Clutch seems to take up in different positions ie one time when you let it out it engages close to the floor, next time its half way out before it engages?

Just started happening a while ago and seems to be getting worse, sometimes the pedal can be totally in and the gears are still engaged, if you let it out and press it in again then let it out it doesn't engage until half way out.

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 166 Answers

SOURCE: Transmission will not engage gears but does turn

I take it's a manual transmission, and if that's the case, if the engine is running, and you difficulty changing gears, either the mechanical synchronizer of the transmission or master or slave cylinder is malfunctioning. This is further discussed in this handy diagnostic artice:
http://yourhandymanzone.com/Your_Handyman_Zone_How_To_Pages_Vehicle_Car_Zone_Cars_Trucks_Vans_Transmission_System_Shifting_In_Manual_Transmission_No_Poss_Engine_Runs.htm

Here's another article discussing the car being stuck in one gear, which may give some complementary background information for you, specifying four probable causes of it:
http://yourhandymanzone.com/Your_Handyman_Zone_How_To_Pages_Vehicle_Car_Zone_Cars_Trucks_Vans_Transmission_System_Stuck_In_One_Gear.htm

This should help.

Good luck!
Brad

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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SOURCE: toyota supra turbo 1990, manual (7mgte engine) Clutch problem

You ever think about replacing your rubber clutch line with a hard line or just replacing the rubber line

Posted on Aug 18, 2009

  • 4102 Answers

SOURCE: UNABLE TO ENGAGE GEARS WHEN ENGINE RUNNING ( CAN

hi, the problem you are having could be down to a couple of things the first and most likely would be that the clutch needs replacing so this would need checking, the problem could also be either the master or slave cylinder on the hydraulic clutch, but my best guess would be your clutch needs replacing.

if the clutch pedal goes to the floor and stays their when you take your foot off the pedal then this indicates are problem with either of the clutch slave or master cylinders but if the clutch pedal comes up on its own then this indicates the clutch needs replacing.

Let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok

Posted on Jan 12, 2010

emissionwiz
  • 76070 Answers

SOURCE: the clutch pedal sticks down when trying to engage

YOU DO NEED A NEW DISC AND MOST LIKELY A MASTER AND SLAVE HYDRAULIC CLUTCH CYLINDERS, THE STICKING MAY BE DUE TO OVER TRAVEL DUE TO THE WORN OUT DISK.

Posted on May 11, 2010

  • 4369 Answers

SOURCE: just put in new clutch

what you mean is the clutch is not disengaging the transmission from the engine, so you can shift it.

This is always due to air trapeed in the clutch system. It is very hard to purge the air.

You may have to have a shop use their evac/fill equipment, if they have it.

Try raising the front of the truck as high as you can, including facing uphill. The air is likely trapped at the slave cylinder, not at the clutch.

There is a video on you tube showing a guy purging air from a Ranger. See if you can view it.

1) The Hydraulic system should be bled to remove all the air whenever air enters the system. This occurs if the fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the clutch master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, air should not enter the system when the quick disconnect hydraulic line fittings have been disconnected. The procedure is very similar to bleeding a brake system, but depends mainly on gravity, rather than the pumping action of the pedal, for the bleeding effect.

2) Fill the master cylinder to the top with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 or DOT 4 specifications. Caution: Do not re-use any of the fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation and don't use fluid from which has been inside an open container for an extended period of time.

3) Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands or drive it securely up on ramps (whichever method you chose) to gain access to the bleeder valve, which is located on the top left side of the bellhousing (See Illustration 1-1 below). Try to keep the truck as level as possible. Caution: Don't forget to chock the rear wheels and set parking brake for extra safety...

4) Remove the dust cap which fits over the bleeder valve and push a length of clear plastic hose over the valve. Place the other end of the hose into a clear container.

5) Open the bleeder valve. Fluid will run from the clutch master cylinder, down the hydraulic line, into the release cylinder (the Slave Cylinder) and out through the clear plastic tube. Let the fluid run out until it is free of bubbles.
Note: Don't let the fluid level drop too low in the clutch master cylinder, or air will be drawn into the hydraulic line and the whole process will have to be started over.

6) Close the bleeder valve.

7) Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. When the clutch pedal is almost to the floor, close the bleeder valve and have the assistant release the pedal.

8) Slowly press the pedal five times, waiting two (2) seconds each time the pedal is released. When releasing the pedal on this step, release it fast. This tends to help **** fluid down the stream and aid in faster bubble reduction.

9) Fill the fluid reservoir to the top.

10) The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, (indicated by failure to disengage completely, and a soft or no pedal), repeat steps 5 through 9.

11) Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by a solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.

12) Install the dust cap and lower the vehicle. Check carefully for proper operation before placing vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid level.

Note: If you can NOT get fluid out of the bleeder screw, then the internal check valve in your clutch master cylinder may be stuck, or you haven't bleed the system for at least 30 minutes. You will either have to use a different bleed technique, or replace the clutch master cylinder. Bleeding a Ranger clutch system takes time and patience. One small mistake / loss of patience / or shortcut, and you'll have to start all over.

Posted on May 20, 2011

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