Question about 1996 Ford F250 Crew Cab
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The only adjustment you'll probably need is to get the air out of the clutch line. Loosen the bleeder screw, and put a two or three foot vacuum line on it. Submerse the other end of the line in a bottle of brake fluid. Pump the clutch untill no more bubbles are coming out of the hose into the bottle. Be sure to keep the reservoir topped up while you do this. Hold the clutch down, and tighten the bleeder screw. Some hydraulic clutches do have an adjustment on the rod that goes from the slave cyllinder to the pressure plate. I'm not sure about yours. If there is a nut on the rod, you can adjust it somewhat. You want it set so that there is just a little bit of play between the rod and the pressure plate where the rod goes. If none of this helps, you mayneed to replace the slave cyllinder.
Posted on Sep 27, 2009
Did you replace the slave or master cylinder or both? WHats the reason for needing to bleed it? If it seemed like it was out of adjustment and you bled it, it may indicate that either of these parts are allowing fluid past when under pressure. If you replaced one and not the other, that could be where your problem lies. If you replaced both, then try loosening the bleeder and leave it undone overnight. This should allow the air out.
Posted on Dec 13, 2009
Make sure the slave cylinder body is attached firmly, then bleed the air out of the hydraulics--similar to bleeding brake lines. Watch the clutch mechanics while someone operates the clutch, (engine off) you should see definite movement. If you get movement and no clutch action, you may have to reappraise your clutch installation. Hope this helps!
Posted on Dec 19, 2009
Testimonial: "Thank you for your expertise, I crawl back under that Truck and follow your advice! Thanks again."
the clutch release disc springs are on there last legs,hence grinding,if you dont replace soon you will need a new gearbox.....(syncro rings)...
Posted on May 10, 2010
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