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Motor get hot on one side not the other - 2001 Ford F350 Super Duty SuperCab

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Possible clogged converter, check temp on radiator sides make sure theres flow.

Posted on Jan 06, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Ford 3000, Battery is hot but no current getting to the starter.


the battery should not be getting hot. you have a main wire grounding you will damage the battery if it gets hot, it can all explode if gets to hot. remove battery and find the crossing over. ignition, it could be the relay to start the solenoid to turn the starter motor. there is a low volt side and a high volt side, its more likely to be the starter motor cutting out. as when the low volt side goes to the solenoid the motor switches to use the high voltage to turn engine.

Jun 20, 2017 | Ford Cars & Trucks

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Blows cold when control is on cold both sides,blows hot drivers side ,cold passengers side with control on hot


Suspect a blend door motor actuator that controls the door for hot/cold on the passenger side to be not working. These motors are usually electric and in some cases very hard to access for testing/replacement. In some cases the entire dash assembly must be removed for repair/replacement

Jan 05, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Headlights won't open on 1985 Corvette


There are two motors, and three relays in the system. Here's how it works:

The headlight door motors reverse direction by reversing polarity. However, the automatic shut off (high torque switch, or HTS) makes that a rather more complex task than at first it might seem.

That's because when a motor reaches its limit, one of the 'wires' is disconnected from the motor by the HTS. Reversing the polarity at this point wouldn't do anything since the circuit is broken by the HTS.

Consequently, each motor has three wires for control. The combination of the blue wire, gray wire, and green wire provide polarity reversal to the motor (to make it able to run in both directions) and to run each motor from its resting state, after it has shut off.

There are of course two motors. They operate and are controlled identically.

Here's the matrix:

RIGHT HAND MOTOR

Blu Grn Gry
up: (+) (-)
dn: (+) (-)

That is, in order to run the motor up, the system connects the green wire to the hot side and the gray wire to ground. In order to run the motor down, the system connects the blue wire to the hot side, and the green wire to ground.

The left hand motor operates the same, except for its blue wire is actually blue with white stripes.

There is an actuator relay for each light mounted on the body of the light housing. There is also an isolator relay, mounted on the fender wall on the driver's side. When operating properly, the two actuator relays act identically.

The actuator relays get their instructions from the isolation relay. When the motors need to run down, the isolation relay is not energized, the blue (and blue/white) wires make with the hot side through the closed contacts of the isolation relay (which is not energized), and the ground is furnished to the motor through the closed contacts of the actuator relay until the circuit is broken by the HTS. When operating properly, neither the motors nor the relays draw any current in the full down position.

When it's time to go up, the actuator relays are energized when the pink wires coming from the isolation relay are connected to the hot side through the newly closed contacts of the isolation relay, the isolation relay is energized because the yellow wire coming from the head light switch is now hot.

When the actuator relays are energized, they furnish 12v from the always hot red wires, through their newly closed contacts, to the green wire. The motor is grounded through the newly closed contacts of the actuator relays. The motors will run up until the circuit is broken by the HTS. When operating properly, with the light doors in the full up position, all relays are energized and draw current, but the motors do not.

There are very counterintuitive things about this circuitry: When the motors are running UP, both the hot side and the ground are furnished by and through the actuator relay. However, when the motors are running DOWN, only the ground is furnished by the actuator relay because the blue and blue/white wires do not run to or through the actuator relay.

Similarly counterintuitive, when the motors are running down, the hot side is supplied by and through the isolation relay, but when they are running up, the hot side is supplied not by and through the isolation relay, but through the always hot fusible link.

That's how the headlamp door relays and motors work. The relays are not cheap but not terribly expensive, either: $17 ea for the actuator relays and $25 for the isolation relay. Proper trouble shooting can save a buck or two.

It is fairly easy to swap the actuator relays from side to side. If the symptoms change with them, then its probably the relays.

Although the actuator relays look similar to the isolation relay, they are very different, they cannot be swapped. Please note that the system is very interdependent, and it's easy to see why Chevrolet changed to electronic (as opposed to electro-mechanical) controls.
Hope this helps.

Apr 13, 2014 | 1985 Chevrolet Corvette

1 Answer

How do i replace actuator blender


He hasn't replaced it the way I read it. If you interrupt power to it by cycling the key it trys again and may get stuck at cold. The "mode" ie floor, defrost, etc is the one you can see from the driver's side floorboard up under the dash. It has a big white gear meshed with it's output, can't miss it. The passenger's side hot/cold motor is on the bottom of the heater case, closest to the floor. The driver's side hot/cold motor can be seen through the glove box hole if you open the box and look through the hole. You can't fix the motor, you will have to replace it. They are between $150 and $200. You can replace the mode and the passenger hot/cold motors with minimal work. You may have to pull the entire dash off to get to it. At the very least you will cuss alot to fit your hands into the hole to replace it...

May 15, 2012 | 2004 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Still looking for a solution for my 98 Olds Bravada. Will only blow hot air. We've changed the blend door motor. Still only turns to the hot side. We've changed the Climate Control Head and the blend door...


Check your wiring with an ohm meter. Also ckeck the plugs at both ends and make sure there aren't any pins pushed out or bent. And just to throw this in, you may have bought a bad motor. You have other motors on the plenum, try swapping them to see if you get results. If they are accessible. Good luck

Oct 04, 2010 | 1998 Oldsmobile Bravada

1 Answer

2000 lincoln ls ac is blowing hot air on pass side


On the central console is the A/C module. Inside A/C module are driver's side & passenger's side air flaps for mixing hot & cold air and directed air flows towards driver's side & passenger's side according to driver commands. The passenger's side flap for mixing hot & cold air according to driver commands is bad. Flaps are actuated by electrical step by step motors. Could be damaged the flap actuator (motor), the flap mechanism (blocked in "HOT" air position), and / or electrical supply wires. You must access the passenger's side flap for mixing hot & cold air, and see what happens when you command cold air to the driver's side: flap mechanism, flap actuator, supply wires, ... Repair & replace bad pieces and test the A/C system.

Aug 12, 2010 | 2000 Lincoln LS

1 Answer

Driver's side defroster and heater vents blow cold air but the passenger side blows hot. Both sides should blow hot The temp is set any temp and it still does the same thing. It is winter so I don't know...


The doors that open and close in the heater control unit are ran by motors. It sounds like a motor has quit in yours. When turning on the defrosters the motor closes the door to the heat for the floor

Jan 12, 2010 | 1995 Cadillac DeVille

2 Answers

The climate control stays hot on the drivers side and cold on the passenger side on all three, defrost , mid and floor . the passengers side will get hot if you raise the temp to 84 or higher. the drivers...


you have a bad blend motor out, has a hole in the vacuum diaphragm look at the heater box under the dash on passenger side when you find the blend door motor pull it off and **** on the end of the vac. motor watch if the lever moves, if it does get it to the max pull position and with your tongue on the end of the pipe hold the vacuum if it releases the arm then the diaphragm is shot, it also could be the hose end is loose, if this is the case cut the end of the hose off and re hook and try it again. if this does not work try moving the lever on the air box and holding it to the hot postion, if it does not get hot then Your blend door might not be working. Post here if you need more help.

Nov 29, 2009 | 1999 Buick Park Avenue

1 Answer

Heater blows cold, and fan switch only works on 4 and 5


working on 4 and 5 speed that the resistor that broken cold air you got to move the selector to see the motor that move the trap hot and cold sometime when the motor was not move to the hot side for a long time its jam the motor on the passager side under dash put to hot and gently tap the motor tanks pierre

Oct 24, 2008 | 2002 Chevrolet Malibu

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