Question about Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Could be a few other things, but starting with the most common :
Intake air leaks, have you changed the air filter as of late, or installed an aftermarket air intake ( K&n, etc ) ?
- If so, check the entire intake to make sure the assembly is correct, this would be in the area after the MAFS ( Mass Air Flow Sensor ) which is in part of the factory air filter housing ( it is that post with the wire in it ).
Other Air leaks after the MAFS
- The most common place for air after the MAFS is the Rubber elbow on the back of the throttle body. The rubber 90* boot will get hard and crack, causing air leaks. This is a 25.00 ( ?) item at a Ford dealer, and easy to change. Check this from the 90* to the other end. This is usually the cause of a P0171 code, but not the only.
EGR leaks. Some times the diaphragm in EGR will be the cause of the problem. This is the flying saucer shaped dish on the driver's side of the engine.
Exhaust leaks by the O2 sensors. If you recently had exhaust work done, this could be the cause of it. With the factory SS system still intake, this is usually a non issue.
When you complete a repair ( if the Car MD will not clear the code ), you need to have 2 drive cycles to get a pending DTC cleared.
For Ford, this is 2 drives, starting with the engine warmed up, normal throttle drive up to a speed of at least 47 mph, and maintain with steady throttle for 10 min. Back down to a stop, and then repeat this for the second time. Fuel tank needs to be at least 3/4 full ( think that is it ) when doing this.
There are a few other items that have to do with the vapor recover, excessive fuel pressure, leaking fuel injectors or fuel regulator, or a low fuel pressure condition. These are not as common for the error.
Starting with the rubber vac line on the back of the intake, looking for cracks is a good place to start.
Posted on Nov 14, 2009
check the U-joints by grabbing the drive shaft and try to make it move from side to side or top to bottom.It is much easier to do this if the vehicle is in the air and no weight on the axle.If it does move replace that U-joint,but if you are going to replace one then I would do both since you will have the drive shaft out any way.Also check to see if the shaft weight is still there,but I doubt it has came off its pretty rare.
Posted on Jan 01, 2010
An additional clarification to terian_5's suggestion of checking the vacuum lines, usually the rubber elbow on the back of the throttle body gets cracks in it.
Remove the plastic throttle body cover, and check the rubber elbow, and the vacuum line for this. You might have to look close, sometime they are hard to see.
Ignore the IAC notation in this picture, it is the best one I have that shows the rubber elbow, it is the elbow right below the text
This is ~ 20.00 ( + tax/ship ) from Ford to get a new one. Replace this, clear the codes and do 2 driver cycles ( steady throttle up to 47 mph min, back to a stop and back up to 47 mph again ).
If you do not have a code scanner to clear the codes, disconnect the battery fro ~ 10 min, reconnect battery, start let idle to warm up, and do 2 drive cycles.
Posted on Jan 23, 2010
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