Several places to check first one is the vac line on the ball mounted to your hood. if its ok then under the truck on the transfercase is the vac switch disconnect it and check for vac.. if you have it put vac line to actuator its uner the right innerfender it controls the front diff lock.. if its functioning then you just ned to replace the vac swithc in the transfercase its just screwed in.. the lines to the 4x4 system are plastic and rubber mostly..
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First check plug on actuator on front differential and be sure that plug is securely fastened to sensor and that plug has no rusted or corroded pins. Then test actuator and be sure it is operating properly. More than likely your four wheel drive actuator is malfunctioning.
don't ram it into a pole, that seldom helps the ticking. get a pressure test done to be sure the oil pump is functioning as it should, motor flush is not always a good idea but if it helped then it probably didn't get rid of all of the sludge, if a lifter collapses, it will always tick no matter what you do, if it is an oil pressure issue the tick can come and go. one thing to consider, sludge happens from poor maintenance, it can hide other issues, clearing out all of the sludge can cause an engine knock if the bearings are worn.
Hmmm, go down and look at that transfer case: that same hose should connect somewhere there (that's what activates the 2WD shift out): either that, or it should go through the solenoid, and then to the transfer case. The best place to find such a diagram would be a Chilton or Haye's manual, either are invaluable to vehicle service.
I just had my fuel sending unit replaced for this same reason. The top of the unit where the lines connect rust and begins to loose gas preasure. However the gas pump and sending unit cannot be purchased seperatly it will run you about $300.00 My problem persisted long enough for the Check Engine Light to come on though Now i have to learn how to reset it..
It depends on if you have an eletronic shifter or a manual shifter for the transfer case. Do you have a lever or a push botton to shift into 4 wheel drive. And how did it go out i mean were you driveing it in 4 wheel and it went out or were you one day trying to put it in 4 wheel and it didn;t go in
Sounds like a vacuum activated switch. Your engine vacuum is used to open and close little doors in your vents. If a hose is loose or disconnected or the electronic controls that tell the switch to let vacuum thru is not working, no air will reach your defroster vent at the windshield. Does the switch that controls Vent, Heat (sends to the floor), AC and MAX AC do anything at all? If they do, you may have a specific switch problem. If you switch from Vent to MAX AC the sound of the air flow should be much louder. If the switch isnt changing where the air blows, it is leading you to the problem. Either the switch is bad or the supply of vacuum to the switch is not there whether it is a loose vacuum hose or a disconnected one. Happens often when aftermarket stereos are installed and the installer disconnects something either by accident or forgets to reconnect it.
sounds like you have a combonation trans and transfer case issues. if you were running youre truck in four wheel on a hard dry surface, witch is not recomended , the trans probibly ran hot. as for the transfer case, it could be a combination of problems. dash switch/ actuator/vacum switch/ vacum canister witch is under the battery tray. all have to work in unison. service the trans first. if the truck has high miles, add trans conditoner, if you do not, it will slip. then the transfer case. refer to youre owners man for oil specs. youre problems are not uneque as these trucks are notorius for unreiable four wheel actiuation. hope i was some help.
Try replacing the vacuum lines that go to the transfer case from the engine. I had the same problem on a 95 Jimmy and was told to do it.... I changed every piece of vacuum hose that had anything to do with the 4x4 and it worked. Hope this helps you out