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After changing disc brake pads rotor too hot 2010 Expedition

Compressed rotors to fit new pads, after drive with new pads wheel is hot to touch and rotor looks slightly scorched

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: cannot fit caliper w/new pads on rotor(rear brakes)

Squeeze the pistons with large pliere to get a little more clearance

Posted on Aug 30, 2009

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SOURCE: stuck calipers

Brake lines are not releasing fluid back to master cylinder. Open bleeder and see if wheel will turn. If it does replace brake line to caliper

Posted on May 08, 2010

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2002 Ford Excursion 7.3 4x4 rear brakes getting smoking hot. Noticed it on driver side first. Assumed the rotor was sticking, replaced it and the hose. Relaxed pads and found the pads on passenger side...


There are a number of issues that can cause overheating disc brakes. Disc brakes, when released, separate from the disc by the action of the rotor moving between them (since no rotor is perfectly true, there is a small about of wobble and it pushes the pads away from the rotor surface). Things that can cause this to go wrong are:

  1. Caliper pistons that have rust rings that cause sticking. This most often will happen right after or shortly after replacing old, work out pads with new ones. Because the caliper piston was extended out farther with the worn pads, its surface may get rusty. This rust can cause sticking when the piston is pushed back into the bore with the new, thicker pads.
  2. Caliper slide bolts will rust and get sticky, not allowing the caliper to release properly and re-center itself on the rotor. What you often see here is that one pad (inner or outer) is totally worn out and the other seems normal.
  3. Rusty brake lines/caliper internals can cause restrictions in the flow of brake fluid and hold pressure after the brake pedal is released.
It is highly recommended that whenever you change your brake pads, you replace the caliper slide bolts use a new brake hardware kit when reinstalling. The additional cost is almost always saved in longer brake pad life, and fewer complications.

Mar 19, 2015 | 2002 Ford Excursion

1 Answer

Why are the Rotors getting so hot on the front and rear so hot I can not touch them.


The rotors are doing their job by getting hot
the purpose of the brakes is to change the kinetic energy of the spinning wheels to heat energy by the friction between the pads and the rotors (discs) This conversion of energy from kinetic to heat is what slows down the vehicle and stops it . The pads have no way of staying off the discs except by the air flow that is dragged under the pad by the friction with the disc So to sum up discs get hot by converting energy and the more energy you have the hotter they get
(watch high speed race cars at night and you will see the discs are white hot or bright red )
Back discs are slightly different as they don't come on as hard as the front discs and they also are affected by hand brakes out of adjustment
IF you feel that the discs are getting too hot for the distance covered there may be a problem in that the callipers are binding on the mounting bolts (pins) and are not centralizing and hence one pad will be in contact all the time This pad will show more wear then the other pad on the same disc.

Feb 15, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replace rear brake discs and pads


Depending on vehicle. Find level ground and park there. Put chocks in front and behind wheels not being lifted. Loosen lugs, jack up vehicle, set jack stands, lower vehicle on jack stands, remove lugs and wheel. Open hood remove brake fluid cap. Remove two bolts holding caliper, pull caliper off rotor disc and bracket, remove pads, place a used pad in front of caliper piston, use a c clamp to push caliper piston in caliper, remove c clamp and old pad, hang caliper up, remove 2 bolts holding caliper bracket, remove bracket, remove rotor, install new rotor, install caliper bracket, install new pads, install caliper, repeat this on other side, put cap back on brake fluid tank, remove bleeder fittings and keep pressing brake pedal until an even flow of brake fluid sprays out. Install bleeder fitting. Make sure brake fluid doesnt get on paint and is contained and disposed of correctly, top off fluid install wheels and raise car up remove jack stands, lower car and break in new pads

Nov 06, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

My 1998 ford escort brake peddle started pulsing and then a noise. Checked fluid, not down any fluid, and no leeks, just feels like I can not stop well., No ABS lite til yesterday, then it came on after...


Normally a "pulsing" brake pedal means that that you have a warped brake rotor or the brake caliper is lose. I would start by taking the front wheel off and inspecting the brake pads and the rotor. If the brake pads are worn down bad replace them. Pay special attention to the brake rotors also as if the are grooved very bad, they should also be replaced.

Nov 15, 2010 | 1998 Ford Escort

1 Answer

When brakes applied the steering wheel shakes.


Your disc brake rotors are warped. Solution? Remove the disc brake rotors and have them turned on a brake lathe. Warpage comes from a hot disc brake rotor going through a puddle of water which causes the warpage. If you have a Parking Brake, get in a safe area and when stopping, ONLY apply the parking brake. If the steering wheel stops shaking...there's your problem...warped disc brake rotors.

Sep 11, 2010 | 2003 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

How to change front disc brake pads on 2000 Mazda Bravo B2500


jack up car, remove the road wheels, at the rear of the caliper you will have 2 or 3 bolts holding the caliper onto the stub axle, remove the bolts and remove the caliper, remove the outer pad, leave the inner pad in place and use a "G" clamp to compress the brake piston until it has bottomed, if this is not done the new pads will not fit back over the rotor as the piston is too far out and the new pads are thicker than the old ones.
place the new pads in the caliper and fit over the rotor, replace the 2 or 3 bolts that hold the caliper in place, replace the road wheel, tighten the nuts and lower the car to the ground, pump the brake pedal to see if you have brakes, if you do have brakes take it for a test drive away from any traffic if possible

Jun 13, 2010 | 1988 Mazda B2600 Cab Plus

1 Answer

Replace rear brake pads


Rear disc brake pads offer better performance and are not as affected by moisture like conventional brake shoe style brakes are. Rear disc brakes are similar to front disc brakes. The main difference is that rear disc brake systems must incorporate the emergency brake system. There are two methods widely used for the emergency brake with rear disc systems. The first system is a brake shoe inside the brake disc that is actuated by the emergency brake lever. The second is a screw style actuator inside the brake caliper. When activated the brake pads are forced into the brake disc and held tightly by the emergency brake lever.
READ COMPLETELY BEFORE STARTING
Step 1 - Identify Rear Disc Brake Components
rear_brake_pads.jpg Rear disc brake assembly includes; rear brake disc, rear brake pads, brake caliper mount and a caliper mounting screw. (Note: Some vehicles do not have the rotor mounting screw.)
Step 2 - Removing the Rear Brake Caliper Mount Bolts
rear_brake_pads_2.jpg To replace rear brake pads and rotors the rear brake caliper needs to be removed. First loosen the rear brake caliper mount bolts and remove them. Turn counter clockwise.
Step 3 - Lift Rear Brake Caliper from The Caliper Mount
rear_brake_pads_3.jpg After the caliper mount bolts have been removed, gently lift the brake caliper from the caliper mount. Inspect the caliper slides; they should move freely in the caliper mount. Remove rear brake pads and hardware.

Step 4 - Removing Caliper Mount Bolts
rear_brake_pads_4.jpg With a socket wrench or other appropriate removal tool, loosen the rear brake caliper mounting bolts. Remove bolts and lift the caliper mount and remove it from the vehicle. Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole. Tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub holding on tightly, using both hands. You do not want to drop the rotor.

Step 5 - Removing Rear Brake Rotor
rear_brake_rotor.jpg Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole, tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub, hold on using both hands and do not drop.

Step 6 - Install New Brake Rotor
rear_brake_rotor_2.jpg Check the new rotor against the old brake rotor to make sure they are the same size. Clean the mating surface on the wheel hub before the new brake rotor is installed. Reinstall rotor retainer screw.
Step 7 - Reset Rear Brake Caliper
rear_brakes_7.jpg Before new brake pads can be installed, the rear brake caliper must be reset. The reset tool winds the piston back into position so the new brake pads will fit. This style of brake caliper will not compress with a clamp tool; it can only be reset with the proper reset tool.
Step 8 - Reinstall Rear Caliper Mount and Install New Rear Brake Pads
rear_brake_rotor_3.jpg After the caliper has been reset, reinstall caliper mounting bolts and make sure the bolts are tight. Then match up the old brake pads to the new brake pads. They should be exactly the same except, of course; the old ones will be worn out. Check the new brake pads for proper fit and install any brake hardware that is required.
Step 9 - Remount Rear Brake Caliper
rear_brake_rotor_4.jpg Reinstall the brake caliper, align brake pad hardware and reinstall caliper mounting bolts. (Note: align the rear peg of the brake pad to the groove in the caliper piston.) Recheck and retighten all caliper and caliper mount bolts. Bleed brake system to relieve any air in the system. Before driving the vehicle, push the brake pedal down and let it up slowly. This operation forces the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors. DO NOT DRIVE VEHICLE until proper brake pedal operation resumes. When test driving vehicle listen for any unusual noises during the operation of the brakes.
WARNING! Always have the vehicle under inspection on level ground, in park with the emergency brake on. Always wear protective eyewear, gloves and necessary clothing before inspection or work begins. Never crank an engine over when anyone is near the battery or engine. Always have an operational fire extinguisher close by, obey all first aid instructions in the event of an injury. Never stand in front or behind a vehicle when cranked over or running. When engine is cranked over keep hands and clothing away from rotating components. Never move a car without proper brake pedal operation.

Jun 01, 2010 | 1995 Saab 900

1 Answer

Rear brake noise after brake replacement


probably a dumb question, but if there is a backing plate, did you make sure it isnt bent and hitting the rotor? you never want to sand new rotors, although i dont think it would cause this concern. i would suggest lightly scuffing up the brake pads. this will eliminate any noise caused by the contact of the rotors and pads. if it goes away then you know its a problem with the pads/rotors.

scoring of only the inside rotors would make me think that possibly the caliper slides are frozen up. make sure they move quite freely on the slides. it is not uncommon for brake pads to score rotors though.

but brake noises at low speeds that dont' change when applying light brake pressure are usually some sort of metal or something contacting the rotor.

Mar 23, 2010 | Toyota Camry Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Changing the rotors how do you get them off


remove the wheel, remove the brake caliper (whole) just remove the two mounting bolts that hold it to the "hub"
theres one or two screws in the face of the rotor, unscrew them, pull it off - a rubber mallet might help!
Clean up the hub with a wire brush before fitting the new rotor. screw in the 2 screws on the face of the new rotor. Fit new brake pads and squeeze the pistons open to slide the caliper and pads over the new rotor, refit the two mounting bolts to the brake caliper, press the brake pedal to seat the pads on the rotor. refit and tighten the wheel, go for short drive and test the brake gently, if all is fine start on the second rotor, just repeat the process again.
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Jan 21, 2010 | 2002 Nissan Pathfinder

3 Answers

1998 Camry steering wheel shakes when braking and over 50mph


if you hit the brakes and it shakes its your rotors, they're probably warped. Having them turned (polished) won't fix it. You'll have to replace them. As for the shaking at over 50, if you're not touching the brakes, you'll probably just need to have your tires balanced. Maybe jack up you car an check the ball joints and tie rod ends (keep the tire on and see if there is play, either up and down (ball joints) and left and right (tie rods)). Hope this helps.

May 06, 2009 | 1998 Toyota Camry

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