Question about 2000 Mazda MPV
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The reason is the water pump is driven off the timing belt, extra parts and allot more labor. No the eng does not have to be removed, labor time around 4 hours, parts about, about $125 US for parts, if it is a dealer add $75 US
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
Courtesy of: forums.mazdaworld.org
Try this, it works on several 2002 models:
Step 1: Open drivers door and leave open.
Step 2: Lock and unlock the drivers door using the power door lock switch on the door.
Step 3: Insert key into the ignition.
Step 4: Turn key to on position and return to off position. (IMPORTANT - use ON position NOT ACC position). Do this 3 times within 10 seconds. Leave key in the ignition.
Step 5: Open and close the drivers door 3 times. (Door should be left open after this step).
Step 6: ECU should respond by locking and unlocking the doors.
Step 7: Press any button on remote #1. ECU responds by locking and unlocking the car doors.
Step 8: Press any button on remote #2 (etc.) Each time the ECU will respond by locking & unlocking the doors.
Step 9: Remove the key from the ignition and the ECU will respond a final time with a series of door locks and unlocks. You're done
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
yes it isn't that much if you buy them.they slide inside the coupler and release the line.
Posted on Dec 27, 2009
Testimonial: "Thank you didn't know if there was a tool for this."
I just had this problem with my driver door window. I took the door panel off and discovered that the motor was burnt out by testing with a meter.
I called around and found a motor at a junkyard for $135 dollars! I didn't bother looking at the price for a new one yet. Budget is very tight right now.
Like you I just wanted a way to get the window up until I could get around to replacing the part.
You can find out what I did with pictures here.
This is for the front driver side window. I did the same for the rear passenger side window and the steps are fairly similar.
There are few less steps to getting the panel off, but it was a little trickier to get the panel back on. (The key was to pull the bottom out and start at the front: Lower the forward part of the panel over the top of the frame first - while pushing firmly at the top of the panel).
The steps for disengaging the motor and raising the window with the motor re-engaged are almost the same. The only differences are that the motor is in a different position in the frame. It's down near the bottom of the frame - and seemingly inaccessible at first glance.
However, if you disconnect the motor from the frame and let it dangle on the regulator wires, you can pull it all the way through to the other port in the frame. That way, it turns out that, it was even easier to work with than the driver window motor.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 25, 2010
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