Question about 1992 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

All 4 bolts which connect a steel frame underneath in between the two rear wheels continue to grip when tightened then break loose as if they got stripped. I loosened them before repairing badly damaged fuel tank filler tube. They seem to be stripped. How can I save over 500 bucks in repairs? Were the nuts welded at the top? Did the weld break loose? Is that why the bolts turn without tightening and loosening all the way to be removed?

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  • Benjamin Livingston
    Benjamin Livingston Jan 05, 2013

    Great!!! A got a nut job ahead of me. way to go Paul.

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  • 325 Answers

Good ol` Toyota yet another f---k up!!!!! There is no cheap way of overcoming this problem unless you have a tame welder.The nuts you are refering to are captive fixed unfortunatly they corrode and break out of thier fixings they will have to be cut out and new nuts welded in..SORRY for the bad news....

Posted on Jan 05, 2013

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
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SOURCE: how to get bolt loose on caliper

heat the around the bolt with propene or matt gas and than try to loose it

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SOURCE: front motor mount on 1993 camry 4 cylinder

The mount is probably bad anyhow. so get it out however you need to, you can always cut the nut or bolt off and the new mount will have a new stud. so you will only need a nut.

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

  • 56 Answers

SOURCE: unable to get the belt

the idler pully needs not to be loosen your should have a tensioner pulley to move back and forth,check your belt length with old belt also

Posted on Aug 22, 2010

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1 Answer

How do you replace the rack and opinion on a 92 cutlass ceira


Here you are - power rack & pinion.

Except 2.2L and 1993-96 3.1L Engines
See Figure 1
  1. Raise the intermediate shaft seal and remove intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
  2. Remove the air cleaner and disconnect the pressure hoses from the steering gear.
  3. Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands, then remove both front wheel and tire assemblies.
  4. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from both tie rod ends. Using tool J-6627 or BT-7101, press the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle.
  5. If equipped with an Air Management pipe, remove the bracket bolt from the crossmember.
  6. Remove the 2 rear cradle mounting bolts and lower the rear of the cradle about 4-5 in. (102-127mm).

WARNING
If the rear of the cradle is lowered too far, the engine components nearest the cowl may be damaged.
  1. If equipped, remove the rack and pinion heat shield.



Fig. Fig. 1: Power rack and pinion assembly
  1. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts, then the gear assembly through the left wheel opening.
To install:
  1. Install the gear assembly through the left wheel opening and install the mounting bolts.
  2. Install the heat shield.
  3. Raise the rear of the cradle and install the mounting bolts.
  4. Install the bracket bolt to the crossmember under the air management pipe.
  5. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles, install the retaining nuts and insert new cotter pins.
  6. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
  7. Install the high pressure hoses to the steering gear and install the air cleaner.
  8. Install the intermediate shaft seal and the intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
2.2L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  5. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
  6. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
  1. Remove the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near rear of frame including the brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hangers.
  2. Remove the engine and transaxle mount nuts at the subframe.
  3. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
  4. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
  5. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
Do not lower the rear of the cradle too far, as damage to engine components nearest the cowl may result.
  1. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
  2. Disconnect the power steering lines from the steering gear.
  3. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
  4. Remove the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
To Install:
  1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
  2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) on the pressure line.
  4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
  5. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
  6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  7. Remove the jack.
  8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
  9. Install the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near the rear of frame including brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hanger.
  10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  11. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  12. Lower the vehicle.
  13. Remove the support fixture.
  14. Connect the negative battery cable.
  15. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
  16. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.
3.1L Engine (VIN M)
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove engine torque strut from engine.
  3. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
  4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  6. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
  7. Remove the center engine and rear transaxle mounts from the frame.
  8. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
  9. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
  1. Remove the brace bolts and brace, including brake line brace.
  2. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
  3. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
  4. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
  5. Remove the steering gear heat shield.
  6. Remove the clip holding lines at rack assembly.
  7. Disconnect the power steering lines and O-rings.
  8. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
  9. Remove the rack and pinion unit through the left wheel well.
To Install:
  1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
  2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten the mounting bolts to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm). on the pressure line.
  4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
  5. Install the steering gear heat shield.
  6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  7. Remove the jack.
  8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
  9. Install the brace and bolts including brake line brace.
  10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  11. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
  12. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  13. Lower the vehicle.
  14. Remove the support fixture.
  15. Connect the negative battery cable.
  16. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
  17. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

25936701-ge4w2xkagkibehwv23tkbbb2-2-0.gif

Nov 01, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to replace rack an pinion cutlass ciera 1992


You aren't saying what engine is in it, or whether it is manual or power steering. Here is the R/R procedure for power steering rack for all engine sizes.

Except 2.2L and 1993-96 3.1L Engines
See Figure 1
  1. Raise the intermediate shaft seal and remove intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
  2. Remove the air cleaner and disconnect the pressure hoses from the steering gear.
  3. Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands, then remove both front wheel and tire assemblies.
  4. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from both tie rod ends. Using tool J-6627 or BT-7101, press the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle.
  5. If equipped with an Air Management pipe, remove the bracket bolt from the crossmember.
  6. Remove the 2 rear cradle mounting bolts and lower the rear of the cradle about 4-5 in. (102-127mm).

WARNING
If the rear of the cradle is lowered too far, the engine components nearest the cowl may be damaged.
  1. If equipped, remove the rack and pinion heat shield.



Fig. Fig. 1: Power rack and pinion assembly
  1. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts, then the gear assembly through the left wheel opening.
To install:
  1. Install the gear assembly through the left wheel opening and install the mounting bolts.
  2. Install the heat shield.
  3. Raise the rear of the cradle and install the mounting bolts.
  4. Install the bracket bolt to the crossmember under the air management pipe.
  5. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles, install the retaining nuts and insert new cotter pins.
  6. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
  7. Install the high pressure hoses to the steering gear and install the air cleaner.
  8. Install the intermediate shaft seal and the intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
2.2L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  5. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
  6. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
  1. Remove the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near rear of frame including the brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hangers.
  2. Remove the engine and transaxle mount nuts at the subframe.
  3. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
  4. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
  5. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
Do not lower the rear of the cradle too far, as damage to engine components nearest the cowl may result.
  1. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
  2. Disconnect the power steering lines from the steering gear.
  3. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
  4. Remove the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
To Install:
  1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
  2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) on the pressure line.
  4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
  5. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
  6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  7. Remove the jack.
  8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
  9. Install the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near the rear of frame including brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hanger.
  10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  11. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  12. Lower the vehicle.
  13. Remove the support fixture.
  14. Connect the negative battery cable.
  15. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
  16. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.
3.1L Engine (VIN M)
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove engine torque strut from engine.
  3. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
  4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  6. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
  7. Remove the center engine and rear transaxle mounts from the frame.
  8. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
  9. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
  1. Remove the brace bolts and brace, including brake line brace.
  2. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
  3. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
  4. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
  5. Remove the steering gear heat shield.
  6. Remove the clip holding lines at rack assembly.
  7. Disconnect the power steering lines and O-rings.
  8. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
  9. Remove the rack and pinion unit through the left wheel well.
To Install:
  1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
  2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten the mounting bolts to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm). on the pressure line.
  4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
  5. Install the steering gear heat shield.
  6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  7. Remove the jack.
  8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
  9. Install the brace and bolts including brake line brace.
  10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  11. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
  12. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  13. Lower the vehicle.
  14. Remove the support fixture.
  15. Connect the negative battery cable.
  16. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
  17. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

25936687-ge4w2xkagkibehwv23tkbbb2-2-0.gif

Nov 01, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Alternator


Instructions
    • Disconnect the battery by turning the positive terminal bolt in a counterclockwise direction. The terminal can be set aside, as long as it does not touch the battery or vehicle frame.
    • 2Remove the radiator fan shroud, fan and radiator by turning their bolts counterclockwise and disconnecting the electrical connections. The coolant must be drained before removing the radiator by loosening the drain plug on the bottom left corner of the radiator frame. The hoses are held on with pinch-style hose clamps that can be gripped with a pair of pliers and slid back on the hose for removal. Once freed from the hoses, the radiator can be unbolted from the top mounts and slid out of the frame toward the top.
    • 3Uncouple the power steering pump hoses with a line wrench by turning the bolt in a counterclockwise direction. The hoses can be set aside. Some fluid may drain out into the drain pan.
    • 4Firmly press against the tension pulley to loosen the primary drive belt. This pulley is located on the right side of the engine as the Aurora uses a transverse-mounted motor.
    • 5Slide the primary drive belt off of the alternator pulley wheel and release the tension pulley. The belt will try to fall, as there is too much slack, but it can be propped up to retain its path through the other accessory pulleys.
    • 6Unbolt the alternator's two top bolts with a socket wrench. It may be necessary to use a universal joint socket because of the tight clearances.
    • 7Remove the alternator's third bolt from underneath the vehicle by turning it in a counterclockwise direction.
    • 8Disconnect the primary positive charging wire from the alternator's output terminal by loosening the nut in a counterclockwise direction.
    • 9Manipulate the alternator out of the engine compartment, taking care to not bump or harm any engine components in the process. The alternator can be worked out of the mount, then wiggled free toward the top of the motor.
    • 10Replace the alternator by positioning it into the mount, then securing the charging terminal by tightening the nut in a clockwise direction. Tighten the bottom mount bolt first, then the two top bolts to secure the alternator.
    • 11Replace the primary drive belt by pressing firmly on the tension pulley and sliding the belt onto the alternator's pulley wheel. It should seat into the grooves on the wheel and should become tight when the tension pulley is released.
    • 12Replace the power steering pump hoses and refill the power steering pump fluid to the proper level.
    • 13Replace the radiator, fan and fan shroud by securing the radiator into the frame and tightening its mount bolts. Connect the hoses and electrical fan connections. Refill the coolant system to the proper level.
    • 14Reconnect the battery's main positive terminal by turning the bolt in a clockwise direction.

Sep 07, 2012 | 1999 Oldsmobile Aurora

1 Answer

Remove and replace Front Sway bar


Hello ggagne.
Here is the procedure.

  1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the left tire and wheel assembly.
  3. Remove the pinch bolt from the lower intermediate steering shaft
  4. Loosen all insulator clamp attaching bolts.
  5. Place a jack stand under the center of the rear frame cross member.
  6. Remove the rear frame-to-body bolts.
  7. Lower the rear of the frame just enough to gain access to the stabilizer shaft.
  8. Remove the insulator clamp bolts and the clamps from the frame.
  9. Remove the insulators from the stabilizer bar.
  10. Remove the stabilizer bar links from the control arms.
  11. Pull the stabilizer shaft rearward.
Installation
  1. Insert the stabilizer shaft to the left side of the vehicle. Important: DO NOT tighten the stabilizer link nut at this time. The weight of the vehicle must be supported by the control arms such that you can obtain the vehicle design trim heights before tightening the link nut.
  2. Loosely install the stabilizer shaft link at the control arm.
  3. Install the insulators on to the stabilizer bar.
  4. Connect the insulator clamps to the frame.
    • Tighten the stabilizer shaft bracket bolts to 48 Nm (35 ft. lbs.) .
  5. Raise the frame into position while you guide the steering shaft onto the gear.
  6. Install the new frame-to-body attaching bolts.
  7. Remove the jack stand.
  8. Install the pinch bolt and tighten.
  9. Install the left tire and wheel assembly.
  10. Lower the vehicle.
  11. Support the weight of the vehicle by the control arms.
  12. Tighten the stabilizer link nut.
    • Tighten the stabilizer shaft link nut to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.)
There you are, I hope your job goes well.
Thank you for using FixYa.

KL

Nov 13, 2010 | 2002 Buick Century

1 Answer

How to replace steering rack


Copied from AutoZone.com:
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Turn the steering wheel to the straight ahead position and remove the key from the ignition.
  3. Turn the wheel counterclockwise in order to lock the steering column in place.
  4. Raise and support the vehicle.
  5. Remove the front wheels.
    WARNING Do not rotate the intermediate shaft once separated from the gear. Possible damage or a malfunction could occur.


    0996b43f807cb0d0.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Steering shaft pinch bolt


    0996b43f807cb0d1.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Steering gear mounting
  6. Remove the steering gear to intermediate shaft pinch bolt and discard.
  7. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from the steering gear.
  8. Remove both steering gear outer tie rod to knuckle nuts and discard the nuts.
    WARNING Do not attempt to separate the joint using a wedge type tool.
  9. Separate the outer tie rods from the steering knuckles.
  10. Remove the steering gear bolts.
  11. Remove the rear transaxle mount.
  12. Carefully remove the steering gear from the frame and the vehicle through the LH wheel opening.

To install:
  1. Install the steering gear to the frame through the LH wheel opening.
  2. Install the steering gear bolts. Tighten the bolts to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm).
  3. Install the rear transaxle mount. Tighten the rear transaxle mount to frame bolts. Tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
  4. Tighten the rear transaxle mount thru bolt. Tighten the thru bolt to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm).
  5. Connect the intermediate shaft to the steering gear.
  6. Install a new intermediate shaft pinch bolt. Tighten the bolts to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
  7. Install the outer tie rods to the steering knuckles.
  8. Install new outer tie rod nuts. Tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
  9. Install the front wheels.
  10. Lower the vehicle.
  11. Adjust the toe if necessary.

Aug 26, 2010 | 2006 Chevrolet HHR

1 Answer

My speed don't work


Speed Sensors REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Front Fig. 1: The speed sensor sits directly over the exciter ring in the front knuckle 89609p51.jpg
Fig. 2: Detach the speed sensor connector in the engine compartment 89609p55.jpg
Fig. 3: Remove the speed sensor harness from the routing clips 89609p53.jpg
Fig. 4: A special E6 Torx® socket is required to remove the speed sensor retaining bolt 89609p52.jpg
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. From inside engine compartment, detach sensor assembly 2-pin connector from the wiring harness.
  3. Remove the steel routing clip attaching the sensor wire to the tube bundle on the left sensor or remove the plastic routing clip attaching the sensor wire to the frame on the right sensor.
  4. Remove the rubber coated spring steel clip holding the sensor wire to the frame.
  5. Remove the sensor wire from the steel routing clip on the frame and from the dust shield.
  6. Remove the sensor attaching bolt from the front spindle and slide the sensor out of the mounting hole. To install:
  7. Install the sensor into the mounting hole in the front spindle and attach with the mounting bolt. Tighten to 40–60 inch lbs. (4.5–6.8 Nm).
  8. Insert the sensor routing grommets into the dust shield and steel bracket on the frame. Route the wire into the engine compartment.
  9. Install the rubber coated steel clip that holds the sensor wire to the frame into the hole in the frame.
  10. Install the steel clip that holds sensor wire to tube bundle on left side or plastic clip that holds sensor to frame on right side.
  11. Reconnect the 2-pin connector to wire harness. Connect the negative battery cable.
Rear Fig. 5: Detach the speed sensor connector in the luggage compartment 89609p04.jpg
Fig. 6: Grasp the harness and . . . 89609p37.jpg
Fig. 7: . . . remove it from the routing brackets 89609p36.jpg
Fig. 8: The rear speed sensor is mounted on the back of the hub assembly 89609p32.jpg
Fig. 9: Remove the sensor retaining bolt and remove the sensor from the hub 89609p34.jpg
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. From inside luggage compartment, detach 2-pin sensor connector from wiring harness and push sensor wire through hole in floor.
  3. From below vehicle, remove sensor wire from routing bracket located on top of rear axle carrier housing and remove steel clip holding sensor wire and brake tube against axle housing.
  4. Remove screw from clip holding sensor wire and brake tube to bracket on axle.
  5. Remove sensor to rear adapter retaining bolt and remove sensor. To install:
  6. Insert sensor adapter and install retaining bolt. Tighten to 40–60 inch lbs. (4.5–6.8 Nm).
  7. Attach the clip holding the sensor and brake tube to the bracket on the axle housing and secure with the retaining screw. Tighten the screw to 40–60 inch lbs. (4.5–6.8 Nm).
  8. Install steel clip around axle tube that holds sensor wire and brake tube against axle tube and push spool-shaped grommet into clip located on top of axle carrier housing.
  9. Push sensor wire connector up through hole in floor and seat large round grommet into hole.
  10. Reconnect sensor 2-pin connector to wiring harness inside luggage compartment.

Aug 03, 2010 | 1992 Ford Crown Victoria

1 Answer

How do you take the rear wheels off of the 2004 dodge ram 1500


hi, if just taking the rear wheels off the vehicle, you will need a hydraulic jack, or vehicle lift of some kind, jack stands to place under the vehicle if you are using the hydraulic jack. You will also need either a 4 way tire iron, or some combination of a 7/8 in socket and a 1/2 in drive breaker bar, the socket needs to be 1/2 in drive as well. this tools maybe rented from local auto parts stores if you do not have availible. now, the lug nuts(the nuts holding the wheels on) may not be 7/8 inch size, depending on the rim package you have, there will be only five of course though. before you jack up the vehicle, you must break the lug nuts loose. take either the 4-way tire iron, or the breaker bar and use a lot of force and turn counter clockwise with the wheels on the ground, and the vehicle in park, with the parking brake on. break all five lug nuts loose(able to turn easily, by hand if desired) on both sides. then you must locate the vehicle frame underneath, and use the jack on the frame point only, never on the axleshaft or body part, and jack up one side of the vehicle until the wheel hangs freely, and place a jackstand next to the hydrualic jack close to touching the frame. lower the vehicle onto the jackstand and make sure the wheel will hang freely. repeat on the other side until both sides, wheels are hanging freely. then remove the lug nuts with either the tire iron, socket and breaker bar, or by hand. once all lug nuts are reomved, pull the wheels off. that should just about do it, hope i didn't leave anthing out, if putting back on, reverse steps, but hand tighten clockwise until tight against the studs, then lower the vehicle down and tighen each lug nut in a star fashion. make sure to tighten very well, you don't want the rims to fall off while driving. good luck.

Jun 17, 2010 | 2004 Dodge Ram 1500

1 Answer

Replace broken sway bar for a 1996 ford windstar


Section 04-01: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Front 1996 Windstar Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Stabilizer Bar Removal
  1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Section 00-02 .
  1. Support vehicle with hoist or safety stands behind front sub-frame (5C145).
  1. stw~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: To avoid damage to the 6 mm drive hole in the front stabilizer bar link ball stud, do not use an Allen wrench to break loose or tighten or final tighten the front stabilizer bar link-to-shock absorber nut.
    Using care not to damage the front stabilizer bar link ball stud seal, remove the RH and LH front stabilizer bar link-to-front shock absorber nut.




  1. Using care not to damage the front stabilizer ball link stud seal, remove the RH and LH front stabilizer bar link-to-front stabilizer bar nut.
  1. stw~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage the ball joint boot.
    With another set of support safety stands under front sub-frame, remove two rear sub-frame retaining bolts. Lower rear of the front sub-frame to obtain access to stabilizer bar brackets (5486).
  1. Remove front stabilizer bar bracket bolts, stabilizer bar brackets, stabilizer bar bracket insulators and front stabilizer bar (5482) as required.
Installation
  1. Clean front stabilizer bar to remove dirt and contamination in area of stabilizer bar bracket insulator installation position.
  1. Lubricate inside diameter of new stabilizer bar bracket insulator with Rubber Suspension Insulator Lube E25Y-19553-A meeting Ford specification ESF-M99B112-A or equivalent. Do not use any mineral or petroleum based lubricants as they will deteriorate the rubber stabilizer bar bracket insulators.
  1. Install new stabilizer bar bracket insulators onto front stabilizer bar and position them in approximate location.
  1. Install stabilizer bar bracket on stabilizer bar bracket insulators and install new bolts. Tighten to 55-63 Nm (40-46 lb-ft).
  1. Raise front sub-frame and install new front sub-frame-to-body retaining bolts. Tighten to 115-132 Nm (85-97 lb-ft).
  1. Install front stabilizer bar link (5K483) to front shock absorber. Use care not to damage link ball joint boot seal.
  1. stw~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: To avoid damage to the 6 mm drive hole in the front stabilizer bar link ball stud, do not use an Allen wrench to break loose or tighten or final tighten the front stabilizer bar link-to-shock absorber nut.
    Install a new front stabilizer bar link-to-shock absorber nut. Tighten to 90-100 Nm (66-74 lb-ft).

  2. 66a0f1a.gif

Apr 28, 2010 | 1996 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

Cant fix timing on 94 honda civic because bottom crank shaft keeps turning


Clamp a vice grip on to the flex plate or flywheel(from underneath thru access cover)as tight as you can,turn the bolt on the lower pulley until it (vise grip) makes contact with the block.Now place a breaker bar on the bolt and break it loose,you'll probably need an extension on the breaker bar,the bolt has loctite and will be froze solid.Good luck!

Dec 08, 2009 | 1994 Honda Civic

4 Answers

CLUNKING NOISE FROM REAR AXLE


Problem I found: Clunk when driving over even small bumps.

If Grand Cherokee is 1999-2004, then check this: Above the differential is a wishbone cross member control arm. The cross member attaches to the frame in front of the rear axle (bolts through rubber bushings), and directly above the differential, at the apex of the cross member, is a ball joint. The ball joint assembly is a flange bolted atop the differential, with three bolts, and the ball joint pin protrudes from the flange through the cross member apex, with a nut atop the pin. Raise the frame slightly, and with a pry bar, pry above the flange, and below the cross member, very near the ball joint. If any motion is detected, then the ball joint is worn from the ball joint socket, or the nut is loose on the ball joint pin. If the nut is tight, then replace the ball joint. 2000 GC part number is 52088808AB, and is available from online sources or dealers. To replace this part, you'll probably need to remove the cross member, as the ball joint pin through the cross member is in a tight location, is tightly wedged into the cross member, and requires a special v-shaped puller to remove the pin from the cross member. If you don't have access to the puller tool, then remove the cross member for this operation. Raise vehicle slightly, under frame, in front of rear wheels. Unbolt the brake line and brake cable retainers from the cross member, then unbolt the flange from atop the differential. Then remove the two frame bolts and manipulate the cross member out of the vehicle, from above the differential.

With the cross member before you, support on blocks, loosen the ball joint nut somewhat, or remove it, and with a beater protective block, sledge out the pin from the cross member. Inspect the rubber bushings at this time. These bushings require an arbor press to remove/install, and the arbor press to install requires a spider so as to not rip the rubber bushing from either the bushing shell or center spool. The press spider is a 4-point tool you can make up from a piece of aluminum.

Bolt the new ball joint flange atop the differential, using blue thread locker, and torque the bolts to 100 ft-lb, cheater pipe useful here.

Replace the cross member to the frame, and install the two frame bolts, finger tight. Pull the member apex down onto the ball joint pin, and run the nut down. Using a box end wrench, hold the pin from rotation while tightening down the nut. Torque the nut to 100 ft-lb. Tighten the frame attachment bolts to 100 ft-lb, and reinstall the brake cable and brake line retainers. Do not over tighten these retainer bolts, as they are passing only through the sheet steel side of the cross member. Take care to not strip the sheet metal threadings. Lower vehicle and remove jack.

May 15, 2008 | 2000 Jeep Cherokee

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