Question about 2004 Mitsubishi Galant
What are the torque specifications for the front and rear disk brake caliper pin bolts on a 2004 Mitsubishi Galant
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sandy, I can only assume that you have fixed whatever issue you were having by now since this post is about 4 months old but, I'd like to give an answer anyway. In order to remove the rotors you obviously have to remove the wheel first. Next you have to remove the brake caliper. To do that you usually need to slightly compress the caliper by squeezing it with a large C-clamp. After it's loose, remove the two hex head bolts, one upper and one lower, that hold the caliper in place. At this point there might be a small ring clip or two around one or two of the lug nut studs that need to be removed. A chisel, heavy wire cutters, or needle nose pliers work well to remove the ring clips. If the rotor doesn't just fall off in your hand, give it a little love tap with a hammer to loosen it and you should be all set. Please let us know how it goes. Thanks.
Posted on Feb 20, 2009
crankshaft pulley nuts are very tight,some are 85-90 ft lbs.use a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar & socket.put auto trans in park manual trans in gear with emergency brake on.
Posted on Oct 18, 2009
#2 = Hub assembly.
It is a pretty simple process and yes you need to mess with the CV but not much. An impact wrench will make removing the large nut holding the axle in the hub/bearing a whole lot easier. If you have one great, if not, it would be best to try loosening the nut while the car is on the ground. If your car has steel rims with hubcaps(MAGS, I'd put on the spare for this part), start by removing the hubcap then remove the cotter pin that goes through the threaded part of the axle and keeps the nut from coming loose. You may want to spray on some WD-40 and let it soak a little before u start. A breaker bar and socket work well, if u have just a rachet, try to find a 4 foot metal / aluminum tube (old tent pole) and slip it over the handle to give you some more torque to loosen the nut. Once loose, back the nut off and push on the axle shaft to see if it moves, probably won't, so more WD-40. You can raise and support the car, remove the wheel and brake caliper and rotor, that should be plenty of time for the WD-40 to work. Try moving it again, if it moves great, if not, hammer time. If you have a large puch or something comparable use it, you really don't want to damage threads. Leave the nut on the axle just in case you do hit the thread, when the axle is moving, take the nut off and this will straighten out the thread if it was damaged. Only thing left now is to remove the 4 bolts holding on the HUB/BEARING assembly. Once they're out it should slide off the axle with out any problems. Slide on the new one and bolt it back together. ONE CAUTION to note DO NOT MOVE THE CAR IF THE AXLE NUT ISN'T TIGHT, YOU'LL SCRAP THE BEARING!!! Here is a link just to show you what the hub assembly looks like from both sides. Hope this is of some help.
Posted on Nov 28, 2009
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