Question about 1995 Toyota Camry
Oil leaks daily from oil pan need to replace gasket.How dificult is it to fix and what needed to be removed to fix it.
Go to autozone dot com and make a free account then put in the make model and year and look at the free repair guides. That will help but you need to be able to raise the vehicle to work under it, then you need to remove all the pan bolts and if you can not drop the pan all the way, just enough to remove the gasket will work, make sure that you clean the surfaces on the pan and the block,dont use any sealer on it. make sure it is lined up correctly,put it back and tighten the bolts, DONT OVER TIGHTEN the bolts.
Posted on Jan 05, 2013
Testimonial: "thanx for the guided info will get right to work on it now."
Not too difficult, see here p277. Having a hoist is best though.
Make an effort though to be sure the oil is not leaking from higher up. Many Camrys of this age develop leaks from the cam cover gasket and the distributor shaft o-ring.
Posted on Jan 06, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Stock the car doesn't come with an oil pan gasket but you can order one from rockauto.com you don't have to remove the A/C compressor for any of the jobs you listed. If you want to change the timing belt you need to remove the plastic rock guard under the motor on the passenger side. remove the spark plugs and using the socket turn the engine from the crankshaft clockwise until you are at TDC on #1 cyclinder. (compression stroke) Next remove the upper and lower plastic timing belt covers. The idler pulley is the one with the spring. Loosen the nut and remove the spring then you can remove the timing belt. It really isn't that hard to do. Maybe one afternoon.
Posted on Sep 20, 2009
Vehicles covered: Toyota Corolla, 4A-F, 4A-FE, and 4A-GE Engines
Here's your maintenance manual entry for the complete procedure:
OIL PAN REMOVAL & INSTALLATION - 1990 Toyota Corolla
4A-F, 4A-FE and 4A-GE Engines
See Figures 1 through 7
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the oil pan assembly-4A-F and 4A-GE engines
3. Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
Fig. 2: Remove the oil pan drain plug to drain the engine oil from the crankcase
4. Place a jack under the transaxle to support it.
5. Remove the splash shield from under the engine.
6. Raise the jack under the transaxle slightly.
7. Remove the front exhaust pipe between the exhaust manifold and catalytic converter. Some models have an oxygen sensor, disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring.
Fig. 3: Remove the front exhaust pipe for better access during oil pan removal
8. On the 4A-F and 4A-FE engines, remove the center mounting.
Fig. 4: Remove the bolts and nuts retaining the center mounting-4A-F engine
9. Some 4A-FE engines and all 4A-GE engines are equipped with a stiffener plate. Remove the set bolts and pull the stiffener plate from the vehicle.
10. On the 4A-GE engines, unbolt and lower the flywheel housing under cover.
11. If equipped, remove the oil cooler hose and union from the oil pan. Remove the two nuts and nineteen bolts retaining the oil pan.
12. Insert a blade between the pan and cylinder block, cut off the applied sealer and remove the pan.
Fig. 5: Insert a blade and tap lightly to loosen the oil pan free from the block
Note: Be careful not to drop any oil on the contact surfaces of the pan and block.
13. Using a razor blade and gasket scraper, remove all traces of packing (FIPG) material from the gasket surfaces. Thoroughly clean all main surfaces to remove loose material. Clean both sealing surfaces with non-residue solvent.
Fig. 6: Apply a reasonable amount of sealant (FIPG) to the oil pan surface-except 7A-FE engine
14. Apply new packing (FIPG) 08826-00080 to the oil pan as shown. Avoid applying excessive amounts to the surface. Be especially careful around the oil passages.
Note: Parts must be assembled within 3 mins of application. Otherwise, the sealer (FIPG) must be removed and reapplied.
15. Install the oil pan over the studs on the block with the nineteen bolts and two nuts. Tighten the bolts to 43 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Make sure when you install the oil pan drain plug using a new gasket.
Fig. 7: Tighten the 19 oil pan retaining bolts securely-4A-F, 4A-FE and 4A-GE engines
16. If equipped, install the oil cooler pipe, two new gaskets and union bolt. Tighten the union bolt to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
17. Install the front exhaust pipe (with new gaskets on either end of the pipe) to the manifold.
18. On the 4A-GE engines, install and secure the flywheel housing under cover if removed.
19. On the 4A-FE engines if removed, attach the stiffener plate. tighten the No. 1 bolt first then the 5 bolts in the sequence shown. Tighten to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
20. On the 4A-GE engines, attach the stiffener plate with the 3 set bolts and tighten them to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
21. Attach the center mounting and tighten the member side bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm), plate side to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
22. Lower the jack from the transaxle.
23. Lower the vehicle, and fill the crankcase with the appropriate amount of engine oil. Engine oil crankcase capacity is 3.4 quarts (with oil filter change).
Above -9 degrees Fahrenheit, use 10W-40 motor oil, and above 10 degrees Fahrenheit, use 20W-50 motor oil.
24. Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks. If all is well, raise the vehicle slightly and install the engine splash cover.
25. Recheck the engine oil level, top off if necessary.
Posted on Feb 19, 2012
Testimonial: "I have yet to get under and check it all out but the diagrams and text support what I have seen so far. Thanks. Jan"
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