Question about Mazda 626

Open Question

Mazda ge v6 sparkplug wire diagram - 626 Mazda Cars & Trucks

Posted by on

Ad

5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad
  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: ignition wiring

firingorder6a.gif firingorder6.gif 1991-1994 2.9L and 3.0L Engines Firing Order 1-4-2-5-3-6 1995 And Later 3.0L V-6 With DIS Ignition System Firing Order 1-4-2-5-3-6
4.0L Engines Firing Order: 1-4-2-5-3-6 DIS Ignition System

Posted on Nov 23, 2008

Ad
  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: sparkplugs are due for replacement mazda tribute v6

Get all your tools ready and a few styrofoam cups to keep the bolts organized and labeled for re-assembly. Have a pencil and tablet handy for notes while doing the take-down. Forgive me if I can't name all the parts. I'm not a mechanic but I was able to successfully replace all six plugs. The key is to keep track of each part you pull & replace it in the reverse order. Number the cups with a marker 1,2,3,4,5.

You'll need a metric socket set,
a spark plug socket and a deep 8mm socket
A flat/slot bladed screw driver will also be handy.
A roll of tape to use as labels

In short, here are the abbreviated steps:
Disconnect the battery
Remove the engine cowling
Disconnect the throttle cable(s)
Remove the ribbed air intake hose
Disconnect the two black wire sockets on the throttle intake
Disconnect the two wire sockets at the top-left of the engine
Disconnect the three hoses in the back/center
Disconnect the solid pipe (saucer on top) on the right side of the manifold
Disconnect the instrument which is behind the solid pipe/saucer
Disconnect one hose from just in front of the master cylinder (brake fluid reservoir)
Remove four long screws at the corners of the manifold
Loosen eight screws keeping the manifold in place (these are captive)
Remove the manifold
Remove each screw holding the spark plug caps in place
Remove each of the spark plug caps
Remove and replace each of the spark plugs

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Now the more descriptive version:
Disconnect the positive terminal on the battery and set it off to the side. This is primarily for safety reasons.

Remove the three nuts from the cowling, pull it and set it aside with the three nuts in cup#1. You'll see the three forward spark plug caps now but WAIT until you have the back three also viewable.

Find the throttle cable(s) on the top and the throttle itself with a circular spring. Rotate it counter-clockwise to slacken the cable and disconnect it, and the secondary line/cable it is attached to. I don't know what the heck it is but it's plastic so be careful not to snap it. Remove the three screws keeping the throttle cables attached to the manifold and keep them in cup#2. There is one short gold colored screw on the left bracket and two longer silver colored screws on the right bracket. Flip the throttle cable up and to the left to get it out of the way.

Next, pull the ribbed air intake hose by loosening both the screw clamps and pop-out the sensor line on the top of the hose
Pull the larger end down and rotate it toward you to remove. Again, set it safely aside.

Since the ribbed hose is near the throttle body, go ahead and disconnect the two wire sockets from the throttle body. They'll be immediately to the left of where the ribbed intake hose attaches. These are easy to access when the intake hose is off but tricky while it's still installed.

Disconnect the two wire plug sockets (one black, one gray) at the top-left of the manifold. Once the sockets are separated, use the flat screw driver to pry/nudge the plastic retainers from the holes keeping the sockets attached to the manifold. Otherwise they'll snag when pulling the manifold.

Disconnect the three hoses on the rear-center of the manifold and label these with a piece of tape as L-C-R. One each for Left, Center, Right.

Disconnect the solid pipe (looks like a saucer on top) on the right side of the manifold by removing the two bolts keeping it's bracket in place. Keep the bolts in cup#3. The Pipe will pull slightly away from the manifold but you will NOT be able to completely pull it out. It will stay in place and you'll eventually see the total length after the manifold comes off. There is also a small gasket around the pipe; leave it in place and tape it down for safekeeping while you're working. Remove the tape when you're reassembling.

Disconnect the instrument behind the solid pipe. (Sorry, I don't know what it's called) First remove the front bracket bolt and put it in cup#4. The rear bolt is a combination set and is a little tricky. Remove the outward nut first and again use cup#4. Next use a deep metric socket to remove the remainder of the bolt and use cup#4. Basically this is a bolt with a permanent nut in the middle and uses a second nut on the end to retain two different parts. You'll see what I mean. This keeps 3 pieces in cup#4 but they all go to the same place.

Next, look to the top-right of the engine and find the master cylinder. (This is where you would add brake fluid if needed). You'll see a hose running from just in front of this area (NOT on the master cylinder itself) down to the manifold with a plastic clip on top keeping it attached. Depress the clip and disconnect the hose.

Now you're finally ready to tackle the intake manifold itself. There are 12 bolts keeping this in place (8 short captive bolts that won't come off, and 4 long bolts with small captive washers).
Look around the manifold top and locate the bolt heads. Use a socket with extension to loosen each bolt. You'll soon determine which bolts in the corner will come out. The other eight will NOT lift out and have larger washers.

Gently lift the manifold up, to the left and toward the front of the car. Make sure to check that nothing is still connected and keeping it in place. Watch the solid pipe, on the right, slide out of the manifold and be sure the gasket doesn't get lost! Carefully, place the manifold off to the side.

You should now see both the front three and the rear three spark plug caps, with six rectangular holes in the top of the engine. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DROP ANYTHING DOWN THESE HOLES!!!!! It would be a good idea to cover these up with duct tape while you're working on removing the caps, bolts and finally the spark plugs.

Unclip the ignition wires from the plug caps. Then remove the bolts retaining the caps and place these in cup#5. MAKE SURE NOT TO DROP ANY DOWN INTO THE CYLINDER HOLES.

Pull up the caps slowly with firm force. Do NOT **** them. Some may be stubborn to come off so use steadily increasing force until they pop off the spark plugs and come freely out of the recessed holes.
You'll need a very long socket extension to reach the spark plugs. Replace the plugs with the platinum tipped variety. I doubt you'll want to go through all this again soon to save $10 on parts.

That's IT! Now work backward, replacing or reconnecting parts in the reverse order as you pulled them. Cross each item off as you work backward. Remember to reconnect the battery terminal and test start the car.

Tada !!!! You've just saved yourself a costly maintenance cost and are good for another 100k miles.

Posted on Feb 22, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 76164 Answers

SOURCE: spark plug wire diagram for

here is the diagram for this truck. just match up the colors and the coil pack numbers to the cylinder colors and numbers.


af77620.gif

Posted on Aug 24, 2010

  • 132 Answers

SOURCE: I need the correct diagram

tractormanan.jpg Just follow the firing order starting with the white dot as number one.

Posted on Nov 09, 2010

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Wiring diagram of 1995 2.5 v6 mx6


color coded wiring diagram for distributor telstar 2.0gl 1996

Jan 21, 2012 | 1996 Mazda MX-6

2 Answers

Looking for a engine vacuum hose diagram for a 1993 mazda mx3 GS 1.8 liter v6 i have an idling problem and I am pretty sure it's vacuum related


you can get that diagram from the dealer just ask the guys in the parts dept for a print out,, to locate a loose or broken vacuum line, you can spray some carb cleaner in the areas that you think may have a bad line, the RPM's will jump up when the cleaner is sucked into the bad line

Jul 19, 2011 | 1993 Mazda MX-3

2 Answers

Sparkplug gap 94 mazda 626


Make: MAZDA
Model: 626 - LX
Year: 1994
Engine: L4 - 2.0L - FI - - GAS

Part Number RC12YC
GAP .044" w/DOHC (Original Equipment Manufacturer and/or Original Equipment Equivalent)


Make: MAZDA
Model: 626 - LX
Year: 1994
Engine: V6 - 2.5L - FI - - GAS

Part Number RC12MC-4
GAP .044" w/DOHC (Original Equipment Manufacturer and/or Original Equipment Equivalent)


Hope helps (remember to rate this answer).

May 13, 2011 | Mazda 626 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to change spark plug on 02 mazda tribute


Is it a V6? For a V6 if you are standing in front of the car it will be the middle cylinder on the firewall side of the engine. You will have to remove the plastic engine cover and the intake manifold to get to it. If it were on the front side of the engine you would only have to remove the plastic cover. Since there is a good bit of work involved removing the manifold, I would suggest that you go ahead and replace all of the sparkplugs and consider replacing the coil for the one cylinder also. I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute. Mine started running rough so I decided to replace all the sparkplugs. After replacing the sparkplugs it continued to run rough. I took it to a shop and got it scanned (no cost for the scan). The scan showed the coil on the 3rd cylinder was bad. So I wound up having to pull the manifold off again to replace the coil :(
The first time it took me 1-1/2 hours to do the plugs, second time 1 hour to do the coil. Car runs great after coil replacement. Hope this helps.

Apr 28, 2010 | 2002 Mazda Tribute

1 Answer

Ignition wiring


firingorder6a.gif firingorder6.gif 1991-1994 2.9L and 3.0L Engines Firing Order 1-4-2-5-3-6 1995 And Later 3.0L V-6 With DIS Ignition System Firing Order 1-4-2-5-3-6
4.0L Engines Firing Order: 1-4-2-5-3-6 DIS Ignition System

Nov 22, 2008 | 1995 Ford Ranger Supercab

1 Answer

Spark plugs


Depending on weather its a V6 or 4cyl the are in the center of the engine cover(s) in a row, if its a 4cyl pull the 4 plug leads out and a long spark plug wrench will go down the hole to unscrew the sparkplugs, if its a V6 then unscrew the 6 screw and the pull out the 6 coils from the center of the engine covers to reveal the spark plugs

Jul 07, 2008 | 2004 Mazda MPV

Not finding what you are looking for?
Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

75 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Mazda Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

76164 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22156 Answers

Jeff Turcotte
Jeff Turcotte

Level 3 Expert

8273 Answers

Are you a Mazda Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...