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The engin has no power and it misses, sometimes more and then less with a better pull. The engin is reconditioned with new distributor unit. new fuel pump, new sparkplug wires, new petrol filter. How

The motor has got no performance and when it idles it is slightly going off balance. The motor when running has got a miss and it backfires when going downhill and uphill. All parts replaced as specify in Question. The pipes coming out of the engin becomes very hot and even some red. Please help??????

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Sounds like its it either running weak timing so rewrite the post with a better description of whats wrong and how it performs on drive cycle and how the idle sounds ,but make sure the timinjg is set to 6? BTDC for 95 unleaded fuel and exactly what type of engine or vehicle this vehicle is and the age of course also if its a manual or a automatic

Posted on Jan 06, 2013

Testimonial: "Thanks. the vehicle is a 2.4 12 valve fuel injection 2001 model Nissan hardbody. The engin on idle lets the body slightly vibrate.In drive mode the engin misfires and backfires with not a lot of power. I checked the spark plugs and they are all wet and black. I can smell the petrol on it. After a drive the vehicle smells with fuel."

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  • Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland Jan 06, 2013

    What i fear here is that as this is a reconditioned engine and your problem here is excess fuel as the plugs are black so either the engine is running on auto choke which could be a temperature sensor faulty which you can test engine temperature reading on a cheap code reader or bite the bullet and take it to a nissan dealer to have the computer re-mapped .Personally i would test the temperature sensors first to ensure its not running on auto choke then if it appears ok run it into the dealer .Unlike the engines i used to work on in the the days of the ark like a morris where i could screw the bottom nut on the main jet to adjust the mixture but these sort of things are a twinkle in my memory nowdays just the swinging 60s (say no more) But if its not obvious then its a computer reset and this is not beyond me but the software is too expensive to make it worth my while

  • mario van vuuren Jan 09, 2013

    The vehicle is running better now after we got the no 2 sparkplug to be dead. The plug itself has got lot of oxide on and is black. after replacement the engin is running better The engin in running mode when it gets hot it misses more than when it is cold. The power is back till it begins to miss. The fuel smell is still strong.

  • Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland Jan 09, 2013

    Sorry no idea without a play with it myself here ,as for the smell of fuel then again i would need to have a drive or head under the bonnet to know whats wrong .Its all very ell trying to answer questions and a lot of the time i can point people in the right direction at least but ?Limit to what i can actualy say when i havent seen the motor running but as for it missing when it reaches operating temperature but in cases like this i have found the rear O2 sensor to be defective so if possible connect a cheap code reader and with engiine running try doing a reading on the machine to see what the temperature is and air intake temperature and O2 sensors .Now if the second sensor is showing a variable voltage but no sts reading then this would indicate a faulty heater in the sensor .Now to check the sensor without a meter then unplug the sensor and firstly read 12v on the two wires the same colour in the engine side of the plug ,now if oyu have a 12v supply then use the resistance side of the meter to see if you have continuety of circuit on the sensor side of the plug connection Now plug the multiplug back together and if a four wire sensor then the gray and blus (wireing colours do vary with maker of sensor) Then with engine running and a pin pushed into the wires you should show a reading across the two wires of between 0.15 to 0.80 volts and the engine is revved up.As for the petrol smell well i can only suggest you follow your nose so to speak


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Sounds like a timing issue start there good luck

Posted on Jan 05, 2013


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: running bad uphill & worse after new plug wires installed

Was this fixed yet? I can't imagine four months of this. Check with some folks in your area that might be able to personally look at your car, ask here:

Posted on Feb 23, 2009

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SOURCE: 1994 chevy c1500 4.3 lt v6...the truck cranks but runs with a hea

jumped time or burnt valve

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

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SOURCE: after motor warms it misses and backfires

You need to test the catalytic converter, these were a common problem. You can do this by removing the oxygen sensor in front of the cat and driving it. It will be noisy, but the open hole will allow excessive back pressure to escape and it will drive better if the exhaust is restricted.

Posted on May 07, 2010

  • 233 Answers


low fuel pressure comes to my mind.

Posted on Jan 29, 2011

SOURCE: i changed sparkplugs, and

You either have a bad ignition module or a
vacuum leak,intake manifold,PCV Hose,etc
that effects cyl #3

Ohm Checking is for the 1980's

Todays tool is an oscilloscope, you won't
have at home.

Also Smoke the intake and EVAP System
for leaks (EVAP Smoke Machine)

Posted on Mar 26, 2011

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Hello Ronald.

You are experiencing a misfire.
As you are experiencing, the fuel mixture in the ngine is quite lean at that point and the engine is putting out all of torque it has. This is where the most spark available is needed.
What isn't happening is a strong spark in one or more of the engine cylinders.
This can be caused by a weak ignition coil, bad ignition wire, distributor cap/rotor or spark plug most commonly.
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To check for weak ignition the first thing I do is spray a little soapy water on the ignition system with the engine running.
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Replace anything that you see spark jumping off of.
Sometimes it takes a while for the water to soak at the distributor cap area.
If all your ignition is original Ronald, replace it. It's 15 years old.
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My 1990 sierra has a miss in it when i accelarate. I replaced plugs and wires but not the fuel filter or fuel pump.I also smell fuel outside between the bed and cab on the drivers side

Check out the distributor cap and rotor arm, - and make sure the plugs ar gapped properly - should be 1mm on 1.6 1.8, and 0.75mm on the 2 liter.
Check the oil level urgently, if it has been misfiring for some time you will have acuumulated all that unburnt petrol in the oil sump!!! (you can test this by getting a bit of oil from the dipstick and putting a drop on your fingers, rub together and sniff the oil, if it stinks of petrol change it -you need to change the oil filter too since it wil be full of petrol tainted oil also.
Once you are sure you have good oil and either it was ok after testing it from the distick "golden, clean oil" or you replaced the contaminated oil and filter you can move on to sorting out this misfire.
- You didn't mention if you checked or replaced the HT coil - Check for strong sparking from the main HT lead from the coil itslelf, Pull the lead from the centre of the distibutor cap - have someone crank the engine while there is a "spare" sparkplug in the main ht lead (ground the plug to the engine, holding the rubber insulation of the cable with pliers - Use a normal HT lead if the main coil lead wont reach a suitable grounding point with the sparkplug) - check for solid bright blue spark, it should be regular timed, and strong EVERY time - any missing or weak sparks indicate electrical problem either - the coil is failing - or the battery is weak - or the distributor is faulty. - a faulty distributor would be expensive to replace and more so to repair, a reconditioned distributor costs around £120.
for now I assume the coil checked out fine and gave a strong steady uniform set of sparks. ----------------------- With a fully functioning coil, you're left with the distributor cap and rotor arm - the distributor cap comes off with 2 screws at the left and right sides of the cap between the HT Connectors - unscrew them - (note the original orientation of the distributor cap before you pull it off to aid refitting) you can now pull away the cap from the rest of the distributor.
INSIDE the CAP there are four "poles" round the outside, and a spring mounted contact in the center - make sure the poles are clean and shiny with only light markings at most, if they are blackened, whitened ro rounded and pitted then replace the cap - ford dealers or local part shop, most shops will stock both the rotor arm and distributor cap for around £15-30 - phone around for the best deal.
Still on the distributor is the rotor arm, this pulls off - it has to be pulled dead straight off the distributor shaft - once you have the rotor arm off you can inspect the metal contact on the top for general dirtiness and decay, it "should" be shiny brass/copper in colour. if it looks pretty bad, pitted or blackened/burned- - get a new rotor arm from ford dealers or from local part shop (not expensive)
Once you are sure of a clean or new rotor arm and distributor cap you can try the engine again - hopefully the misfire is gone.
If it is still there....
we are here


If it still misfires with all these things in perfect order then you are left with: Clogged Fuel Line/Filter or Failing Fuel Pump or Ignition TIMING - ( 10-12 degrees BTDC) have igition timing checked and set if not correct. OR... Faulty Distributor - pretty much worst case scenario. Tell me how you get on - Often it is the distributor cap and rotor arm - If not I hope its the fuel filter!
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