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This sometimes is triggered by the MAF(Mass Air Flow Sensor), try cleaning it with the highest percent isoproply alcohal first, do not touch the sensor with anything use a big bag to soak it into, or just replace the sensor.
For rear pads rear rotors changing procedure
you need lift up car,secure front wheels,
disconect rear wheels from rotors,(if you missing
the bolts try drill it whith portable electric drill at first smal drill 3 mm diameter,then 10 mm diameter.)Disconect the hydraulics breake cylinders cearefully putt it on plate not tears the house.Change beake pads.Unscrew the rotor whith hexagonal
wrench.Setup the hand bracke clearance.Putt agan the rotor on rear axis.Assembly the breake cylinders ,and wheel tighening 110 Hm.
ABS sensor fault. This can be tested with a multimeter. There is a pick up sensor at each wheel on the car, usually reading off a castlated ring. Find the plugs for the sensor and set your multimeter to AC (the wiggly symbol) Use your test probes into the wires on the sensor side, and spin the wheel as fast as you can. The multimeter should read 0.2-2.0 volts ac. If nothing, then thats a faulty sensor.
Although i have given you a guide to doing this, it is better taken to a reputable garage with correct tools to have this test carried out.
brake pads are the ONLY way to stop you going like 30mph+ when you hit like a wall or person or like another road user & if you do crash YOU will be totally at fault for having an unfit car. The best way to get the lights on your dash to go out is to fit new pads. The lights show that the time when the brakes WILL fail is drawing very near, it is stilll up to you to get the pads changed. You will not get any further warnings from your car prior to not being able to stop at all thus causing endangerment. You will be shocked at just how bad they were when you feel the new pads.