The electric locks on my truck are still getting power with the ignition switch off. I pulled the fuse, and it sparks and the locks click with the ignition off and key removed. Also, the locks don't function with the key on.
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You have a direct short to ground on that power feed circuit . You need to find a power distribution diagram to see what all gets is power from that fuse . Isolate the circuits till the fuse doesn't blow any more , then trace out that circuit that blows the fuse .
Which Ignition fuse ? Which fuse box is it in ? under hood , passenger compartment ?
Ignition Switch RUN, START, RUN/START/ACCY
Ignition Switch RUN/ACC, RUN/START
Could be ignition switch problem , Chevy has had problems with them .
Check power an grounds for ignition switch , voltage drop test the starter circuit . Go to youtube an check out videos on basic electrical trouble shooting , voltage drop testing ,how to read a wiring diagram .Then go here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html free wiring diagram ! Look at power distribution under electrical distribution . Check main fuse's Maxi fuse's that power the ignition switch ,IGN.C fuse 20amp in underhood fuse box ,then check crank fuse 10amp in same fuse box .Check the starter relay in the under hood fuse box . Check the circuit form ignition switch to the starter relay , pull the relay out an look on the bottom you should see 4 set's of numbers 30 - 87 - 85 - 86 . Pin 30 or 87 should have battery voltage ,one or the other ,not both . if you jump those two at the base (where it plugs in ) not the relay pins . It should crank the engine ( if starter is good an there are no opens in the circuit ) Pin's 85 an 86 are the control side of the relay ! You may want to check out videos on how a relay works also > Good luck hope this helps
Remind me not to ask for a ride from you. When you jiggle the key you are probably connecting, or re-connecting, the power from the ignition switch to that portion of the fuse panel that covers all those things that don't work. Except for the power door locks- that may be a separate issue. But everything else only has power when the key is in on (run) or start. And the fuses to them only have power from the ignition switch when the position is in on or run. You have a bad, worn lock cylinder, or a bad electrical portion of the ignition switch. You'd have to pull the cover shrouds off the steering column to see and get to the parts.
Remove the horn button, nut the pull the wheel off with a puller.Remove the lock plate retaining spring using a Lock plate press. Remove the directional switch screws (3).. Lift that switch out of the way to remove the ignition lock screww Pull out ign Lock Cylinder
This is a problem with chevy vehicles that have the system theft light. after a couple of years of using the key, the lock tumblers inside the ignition switch tend to wear out and so causing the system to think it's being stolen. Now you have to put the key in and turn the ignition to the on position, without cranking the car and leave it for 10 minutes until the theft light goes out. Very annoying especially if you're in a hurry. The dealer cost to repair the ignition switch goes for about $600-$800. that includes re-teaching the key.