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strip out the heater control panel ,the knobs just pull off check that the control cable is attached to the heat selector if it is follow cable back to the heater box a check it is still connected to the flap control .two semi circular toothed components , the steering wheel controls may be a fuse so check fuse box under dash but if the heater cable has broken/pulled off this may just have dislodged the wiring connector to the wheel controls if both happened at same time let me know how you get on
So--there is no back-light on the heat panel and roof mounted display? Similarly to a gauge cluster--there are bulbs that produce the back-light. I have a 90's vehicle and I had to replace the bulbs in the heat panel and on the gauge cluster. On some vehicles however you have to take the whole car apart just to access these bulbs. So--just take your time, consult a book, and check the bulbs to see if this is the culprit.
there is a regulator for the display brightness, you may have it turn'd down or it has stopped working;. it controls the brightness at which the dash lights are. usually has a speedo sign on it. goes up and down. it works with the main light and is conecter to them on the same lighting board if it has gone then a new light swtch control switch will be needed.
The clock will reset to 1:00, I believe, if its power supply is interrupted and then resumed. This could happen randomly if the clock's electrical connectors have come loose. To verify this, you would need to pull the clock and radio dash panel. This is not too difficult to do, just remove the heating control arm tabs then pry the panel loose at the edges using a flathead screwdriver - the panel is held in just by spring clips. If the clock connections seem secure, you might consider replacing the clock. Inexpensive replacement clocks are available on eBay or from salvage yards.
i would just get a used one off ebay. usually you can find the dash with the a/c amp(pushbuttons) and the display for around 40 bucks. they are separate units(display and amp), and are mounted with screws that go into the back of the dash panel. the dash panel is easy to remove, there are 2 anchor screws on either side of the steering column. right side is under a plastic cover, the other is under the rheostat, just carefully pry them out, and you will see the screws. then the whole dash part pops out. you will need to disconnect the harness's that plug into the back of the amp, then it all comes free. it might help to put the steering wheel in the lowest position.
i HAD the same problem.... first check the fuse under the hood labeled 'dome' should be a 7.5A it is blown for sure... also if you are good with wiring and at working on cars look at the drivers side doo wiring (between the inside door jam and the drivers side floor... its the wiring that goes through the door to the cabin.... anyway you have to take off the door panel and remove a small cover on the floor of the drivers side.... now remove the two connectors that go to the wiring harness.... you should now be able to loosen the grommet and pull the wiring harness through the door via the speaker hole (you should have removed the speaker already) you now must inspect the wiring which is most likely frayed and/or broken now fix the wiring with some new wiring and crimp connectors and heat shrink your work.... should be good as new... have fun getting the wiring back through the door... it will be bigger due to the crimp on connectors etc..... i did a quick write up of this so i hope it is understandable