Question about 1995 GMC Jimmy

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I noticed overheating, no warm air when heat was turn on. ? is the t-stat stuck close or water pump gone? checked hoses in and out of the heater core from under the hood and they were not hot nor felt like any presure while running..

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Well if the thermostat was stuck closed, the engine and the heater would get hot but the coolant would not flow thru the radiator.
If the cooling system is full of fluid, and the engine is running hot, and the heater hoses are cold, I would say the water pump has failed or you have another kind of restriction.

Posted on Jan 05, 2013

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SOURCE: 1998 Dodge Durango no heat when using heater.

BLEND DOOR STUCK OR BROKEN. NEEDS TO REMOVE DASH AND HEATER/EVAP CORE BOS TO REPAIR REPLACE.

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

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SOURCE: 1998 GMC Jimmy SLT warm air only from heating ducts

if you claim that your heater core is flushed properly then my bet is the temp regulator is bad.

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check you antifreeze level and make sure its full

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

  • 194 Answers

SOURCE: We live in a cold

Check to see if there is a valve on the inlet side of heater core if so and when everything is warmed up turn the heater on full hot and check to see if there is vacume at the valve if there is vacume the heater core may be pluged preventing cirqulation.Low collent levell can also cause this problem as well as a frozen heater core.If the water pump was defective the engine would be overheating. Good Luck.

Posted on Dec 08, 2010

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2005 pontiac grand prix no heat until i rev it up and down in park if i dont keep doing this it goes back to cool if i drive it no heat doesnt overhat and i have bled the system several times and...


Could be a clogged heater-core, or it could be a bad thermostat. Waterpumps hardly ever fail, unless it is leaking. The pump mechanism is direct-drive, so if it is turning, it is working...
Try checking the thermostat in a pan of water, on the stove, with a thermometer to see when (IF) it opens. If it's NOT the thermostat try flushing the heater-core (buy a kit and use a garden hose).

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Both of the hoses at the heater core should be hot. If one is cold the heater core is plugged. You can think of it this way. If the thermostat was stuck closed and you checked the upper and lower radiator hoses with the engine hot the upper hose would be hot and the lower hose would be cool because there is no flow. If you check the hoses with a properly working t-stat both hoses will be hot when the t-stat is open and coolant is flowing. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com!

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98 Buick is heating up, and when it does it blows cold air. Is that the thermostat going bad or is that the water pump?


1. if your thermostat is going out...you will generally over heat if its stuck in the closed position....initially you might not even notice.but watch your temp gage.

2. If sticking in the open position..rare... your car will require a longer warm up period...operating temp.....heater takes longer to heat up...tough to check in the summer time...if you think its going out then just replace it and be sure to install the new gasket that should come with it....they are cheap and one of the easiest things to fix on a motor...failure to fix it can result in an overheated engine, oil breakdown and seized engine parts

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We live in a cold climate. Our 1998 GMC Jimmy Heater will not provide cabin heat. The engine warms normally. We replaced the thermostat just to make sure the coolant was warm enough. The blower operates...


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Dec 08, 2010 | 1998 GMC Jimmy

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Heater not blowing heat only cold


Check the coolant level. It is common for the intake gaskets to leak causing the coolant level to drop. The first thing to stop working when the coolant gets low is the heater. Top off the coolant and determine where you are leaking coolant whether it be the intake gaskets, hoses, radiator, water pump, etc.

If the coolant is full what does the temp gauge say? Once the vehicle is warmed up it should read around the 200 degree mark. If its below 190 than the t-stat is stuck open. Replace the thermostat.

If both of those are fine and the coolant looks like mud than your heater core is plugged. You can try back flushing it with a water hose. Remove both of the heater core hose and use a water hose to flush out the heater core. This may take several tries before you start to feel some heat.

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Which way does the waterpump turn on a 1985 Ford LTD 302?


The feature than can determine the way the pump turns would be whether they were driven by the smooth side of a serpentine belt on the one had, vs. the grooved side of a serpentine belt or a V belt on the other hand.

It would really be a good idea to get a numeric reading on the engine temperature...

Of course, the number one issue is the thermostat. If it is too high of a range, or is not opening properly, the 4-core radiator will never be called on.

Next is the possibility that steam/vapor is collecting around the t-stat. I had a big problem with that in an Aries K. Once it got hot enough to open the t-stat a few times the temperature settled down.

If the fan is not doing its job sufficiently you will get overheating at stop lights and in crawling traffic, but cooling that is fine above maybe 15 or 20 MPH.

If the bottom radiator hose has failed, it can collapse due to the suction of the water pump. For the whole length of that hose you should not be able to flatten the hose by hand. It should have a spiral of wire, a "spring," inside it that prevents that. If that wire has corroded, and isn't doing its job you can get compromised flow.

When the engine is cold, start it up. Before long, the heater hose that comes out neat the t-stat should start to warm up, while the upper radiator hose stays cold. The closed t-stat forces circulation through the heater system. This causes flow over the hot surfaces, and carries the heat from the area of the cylinders to the area of the t-stat. without that, the water's heat would take 10's of minuted to get to the t-stat.

Next, when the heater hoses get too hot to touch comfortably, but before the engine overheats, the upper radiator hose should start to warm up. The t-stat will start to open, and a little hot water will sneak out of the engine, heating the hose a little. That will introduce a little cold water from the radiator into the water pump, where it will get quickly mixed with the water circulating through the heater system, closing the t-stat pretty quickly. So the initial warming of the upper radiator hose will be pretty slow.

If it overheats before the upper hose gets too hot to touch, you have a t-stat problem. Either the t-stat is failing to do its job, or it is not getting the heat signal it needs to operate properly.

If the heater system is clogged or plumbed wrong, it will not allow the requisite circulation.

I hope this gets you on the road to fixing your overheating problem. A 302 with a mondo radiator as you describe should have no overheating troubles, even in the desert!

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My 92 Saab 900 blows cold air constantly and the temp gauge stays on low. I replaced the thermostat but still no change. When the heat switch is off for a period of time while driving I can turn the switch...


Unless you have symptoms of over-heating, I rather doubt that your water pump is a problem. I recall that my water pump had a metal impeller (1992 C900); I haven't heard of a plastic impeller on a Saab pump before. (Most pump failures are the bearing seal, and the pump leaks coolant) If your temp gauge is slightly low (and was OK before) I'd rule out water pump issues.

You might have one or more of the following issues:
  1. did you use a Saab thermostat? The Saab stat has three stages (no flow to rad - cold; flow to rad and heater core - normal operation; and no flow to heater core, full flow to rad - overheating) that most after market stats don't.
  2. did you use a low temp stat? this opens at about 82 deg (rather than 89 deg), and will run cooler during the winter, hence you gauge will show lower than the mid point. The big benefit is that your engine won't overheat during the summer (a very good thing!) with the low temp stat.
  3. has your rad and heater core been flushed recently? If the heater core is obstructed flow will be reduced and the heater will run cool. Feel the rad and heater hoses when your engine is warm; if heater hose is much cooler than rad hose with heater temp set to max, then core flow is likely restricted, or valve is not moving much from the shut position.
  4. is you vacuum tank properly connected and are there no leaks in the vacuum piping? The tank is in the driver side rear wheel well below the trunk deck on a convertible, and in the passenger side front fender area on the other cars. It's a white bottle with one or two hoses connected to it. If not properly on, your vacuum operated heater flaps won't move. Does the air distribution knob make sucking or hissing noises when you set it to different positions? If not, check the tank connections, look for vacuum line leaks, then suspect the vacuum valve behind the distribution knob.
  5. Lastly, the shaft connecting the temp control knob to the valve behind it may not be properly in place. This can be inspected, and adjusted if necessary, from the speaker/vent cutout on top of the dash. Make sure you re-connect the black flex hose to the air vent tube, or you'll get no defrosting afterwards!
  6. remember, the centre vents always blow cold air; a brilliant idea from Saab so the driver (and passenger) can get fresh air in the face and stay awake while the rest of the driver, passenger and car is toasty!
  7. see http://townsendimports.com/Web/cooling_system_folder/thermostatreplacement.htm for flushing and stat replacement info

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hello.....
first in this problem you need to look for cheapest things to do which is start with you thermostat abd make sure its open and close by how much temp inside the eng. then u need to feel the input hose and the output hose which they come from the heater core they should have closely same temp . if there is non of them have any heat thats mean the water pump blower is broke and u have to replace the water pump, if one of the heater core hose hot and the other cold the problem in the heater core , about the A/C light is on the A/C comprasser shoul work with the heat becuase hot air + cold air = dry air which u need for ur front DEF

Mar 14, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier

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