Question about 2000 Subaru Outback

6 Answers

Replace Stereo -- How? -- 2000 Subaru Outback Wagon

I am able to get the (plastic) "wood-grain" trim off of the dashboard, except in the lower left corner, where it seems to be ?? screwed in ??

Can anyone help with that?

Is there a complete instruction set anywhere for removal/replacement/installation of a stereo (head unit) into the dash of a 2000 Subaru Outback Wagon?

Any help much appreciated!!!

Posted by on

  • fixya_com703 Jan 21, 2009

    I guess I was hoping for something a little more complete along the lines of stereo installation in this model Subaru -- for example, I was hoping to see a wiring diagram for this Subaru, too.

    Possible?

    Thank you!

  • fixya_com703 Jan 22, 2009

    Yes very helpful.

    I probably should have been even more specific -- I am using an M-Bus adapter to hook an iPod Touch to an Alpine TDM-7582 in a 2000 Subaru Outback Wagon... :-)

    (and that does not seem to work, sadly)

    but you certainly answered the question as phrased. Thank you.

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6 Answers

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Http://www.butkus.org/subaru/outback_stereo/outback_stereo.htm to get the exact wiring diagram just click the link and follow the instructions with diagrams and replace it easily . please do rate the solution.

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

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Remove the ashtray to reveal hidden screw.

Posted on Jan 20, 2009

  • 4 more comments 
  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jan 20, 2009

    A. Removal of Center Console


    1. Remove the gearshift cover by pulling up slightly and toward the back. Be careful not to break the small posts on the console trim that are inserted into the console. A slight pressure with a small screwdriver can help pry the rear of the cover loose. Be very careful!
      a. For automatic transmission, shifter must temporarily be placed into neutral.
      b. For standard transmission, the shift knob must be removed by unscrewing.

    2. Remove the tray by removing the two screws.
    3. Remove the ashtray, disassemble ashtray assembly by removing the two screws underneath. Use the stubby screwdri ver and be careful not to drop the screws down into the guts of the console.
    4. Remove the center console cover by carefully pulling rearward evenly in areas all around the trim. Disconnect cigarette lighter socket.

    B. Removal of Head Unit

    1. Remove the radio and pocket assembly by removing the (6) Phillips screws (C) and pulling radio bracket assembly outward. (Note: protect vehicle trim with rags or paper.)
    2. Disconnect Heating/Ventilation and Air Conditioner (HVAC) control unit from bracket (4 screws) (D) and move HVAC control unit out of the way.
    3. Disconnect 14-pin connector, battery ground cable and antenna lead from back of radio.

    C. Complete the installation

    1. Re-install the HVAC control unit onto the bracket using (4) screws (D).
    2. Re-install the radio assembly with the (6) screws (C).
    3. Re-install battery ground cable, antenna and connectors.
    4. Re-install all trim in the reverse order of the above including re-connection of all electrical connections.
    5. Re-connect the battery.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jan 21, 2009

    of course!

    just ask!

    And dont 4get to change your rating to a FiXyA!







    Constant 12V+
    Blue/Yellow

    Switched 12V+
    Yellow/Red

    Ground
    Black

    Illumination
    Green

    Dimmer
    n/a

    Antenna
    Driver's Pillar

    Front Speakers
    6 1/2" Doors

    Left Front (+)
    Brown/White

    Left Front (-)
    Green/Black

    Right Front (+)
    Red/Yellow

    Right Front (-)
    White/Black

    Rear Speakers
    6 1/2" Rear Doors

    Left Rear (+)
    White/Red

    Left Rear (-)
    Red/Green

    Right Rear (+)
    Blue/Green

    Right Rear (-)
    Red

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jan 21, 2009

    Maybe you can see this better....



    Constant 12V+ Blue/Yellow


    Switched 12V+ Yellow/Red


    Ground Black


    Illumination Green


    Dimmer n/a


    Antenna Driver's Pillar


    Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors


    Left Front (+) Brown/White


    Left Front (-) Green/Black


    Right Front (+) Red/Yellow


    Right Front (-) White/Black


    Rear Speakers 6 1/2" Rear Doors


    Left Rear (+) White/Red


    Left Rear (-) Red/Green


    Right Rear (+) Blue/Green


    Right Rear (-) Red










    Thank you for using FixYa - Your FiXYa Rating is appreciated!

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jan 21, 2009

    if your planning on an aftermarket radio - you will require a dash kit

    Metra makes...... a mounting kit #99-9999

    ...... Wiring Harness #70-8901

    ...... Optional pocket #98-8999



    Any more ?'s dont hesitate to ask.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jan 21, 2009

    Please be sure to select the proper expert to rate as FiXYa - as this is the only one to get paid for the solution - as you can see, dealt_soul has simply cut and pasted my EXACT initial reply.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jan 21, 2009

    ALSO PLEASE SEE THIS LINK - WORD FOR WORD CUT AND PASTE FROM WIKIPEDIA FROM NADAKUND.



    nice "expert" advice

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pull back the shifter boot there are 2 screws behind it. there are 2 screws behind the cup holder. once removed the stereo bezel will come out and you should see the radio mounting screws good luck

Addendum by new user:
I just did this last week. It was not "hard", but took me about 7 hours. It was my first attempt at installing a stereo by myself, so I think that's pretty good. Once I figured out that you have to use a very short Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws from the ashtray holder, I thought it would be smooth, but I was wrong. I ended up with the A/C blower unit sitting on my dashboard and loose screws all over the place. Unlike what the previous contributor said, there are no less than 10 screws involved.

The main problems stemmed from the fact that the wiring harness from the original installation did not match my new unit. The new unit had a wiring harness with 12 wires, but the original had 14. This meant that I had to figure out which of the "extra" original wires were essential. I did not need the wire for the antenna motor on the new unit, so that one was easy, leaving three to match with the old setup. The details are unimportant, so don't worry if you're confused here.

Another issue was that the Chilton manual I have was useless in indicating the wire colors for the speakers (and all the other connections for that matter), so I had to take off all four door panels to determine pos and negs for all of them. The rear wires were easily identified with "+" and "-" marked right on the connector, but the front speakers run through a clip and come out both red with no stripes, so I was not able to map them. Luckily, they were paired nicely in the harness, so once I figured out the locations of the pos and neg of the rears, the fronts lined up the same (neg on the top row and pos on the bottom). (I have the wire harness positions figured out, so if anyone wants them, just email me).

Lastly, the body of my new unit was too wide for the console faceplate. I also figured out that once you remove the faceplate, it does not want to go back in. Between the lighter component being very long and the tab along the bottom (the one that fits between your shifter console and the vertical center console), it just makes things difficult.

To solve both of these issues, I used a strong utility knife to completely remove the entire bottom tab (I figured that the ashtray screws will hold it well enough that it's not going to flop around anyway). I also carefully marked out the space that would be needed to feed the stereo unit in from the front of the console and trimmed the opening.


It was about 1/8" too wide, so I took off about 1/16" from both sides, only about 3" long from the top to accommodate the body of the unit. If you have to do this, cut slowly and lightly with many passes. If you get too impatient or use too much strength, you can overshoot your endpoints and damage the faceplate.

Since the stereo is a little wider than the original, I had some trouble getting it into the metal frame that also holds the little junk tray beneath the unit. To solve this, I fed it in straight with the left side going nicely into the frame, and used a screwdriver from above to widen the top a little so the right side could also slide in. Make sure you connect all your wires through the faceplate first, you will not be able to get to them once the unit is in place (but you probably already know this).

The installation - finally - was beautifully done and the new unit works perfectly with one caveat: since I had no wiring diagram, I guessed wrong on one of the wires, so my stereo is not connected to the car's battery. So every time I turn off the car, the unit loses all my settings - clock, radio presets, equilizer preferences, etc. If anyone knows which wire is the missing link, please tell me. I only have two options to chose from, but I would rather not have to keep guessing at this.


*****Regarding your positive wire problem where you lose your settings every time, I had the exact same problem with my '97 Legacy--I pulled out the stereo, got out my $10 multimeter (set to DC volts) and connected my -ve probe to the frame inside the dash and my +ve probe to each loose wire coming out from inside the dash until I found one that gave me a 12V difference (make sure your ignition is OFF, not on "accessory"). I had previously assumed this wire went to one of the back corner speakers since it's the same gauge as all the other speaker wires, but I connected this THIN BLUE WIRE WITH A RED STRIPE to my stereo's full-time +ve wire and my memory problems were resolved! Your car has accessory +ve wires and full-time -ve wires, you can imagine which ones work at which ignition settings. Some stereos have two positive wires; one for full time +ve and the other for accessory +ve. In the '97 Legacy, you might be surprised that even the cigarette lighter +ve wire is connected to an accessory circuit (I checked that one too). Hope this helps.***** Next time I install, I will also make sure to use a magnetized screwdriver - lost about 4 screws down the back of the panel!

Have fun and make sure you have a good flashlight and perhaps a helper. I got a crick in my neck trying to hold the light while using both hands to do the wiring.

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

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Suggested tools: A stubby #2 Phillips screwdriver, and a #2 Phillips screwdriver w/magnetic tip. (You will need one about 6 inches long to get at the screws holding the HVAC pocket to the dashboard.)
Approximate time to complete: 1 hour to solder wiring harness to aftermarket radio harness (Crutchfield)
1-1.5 hours to remove and replace the unit in the vehicle
Always disconnect your battery beofre performing electrical work!
A. Removal of Center Console

  1. Remove the gearshift cover by pulling up slightly and toward the back. Be careful not to break the small posts on the console trim that are inserted into the console. A slight pressure with a small screwdriver can help pry the rear of the cover loose. Be very careful! a. For automatic transmission, shifter must temporarily be placed into neutral.
    b. For standard transmission, the shift knob must be removed by unscrewing.
  2. Remove the tray by removing the two screws.
  3. Remove the ashtray, disassemble ashtray assembly by removing the two screws underneath. Use the stubby screwdriver and be careful not to drop the screws down into the guts of the console.
  4. Remove the center console cover by carefully pulling rearward evenly in areas all around the trim. Disconnect cigarette lighter socket.
B. Removal of Head Unit
  1. Remove the radio and pocket assembly by removing the (6) Phillips screws (C) and pulling radio bracket assembly outward. (Note: protect vehicle trim with rags or paper.)
  2. Disconnect Heating/Ventilation and Air Conditioner (HVAC) control unit from bracket (4 screws) (D) and move HVAC control unit out of the way.
  3. Disconnect 14-pin connector, battery ground cable and antenna lead from back of radio.
C. Complete the installation
  1. Re-install the HVAC control unit onto the bracket using (4) screws (D).
  2. Re-install the radio assembly with the (6) screws (C).
  3. Re-install battery ground cable, antenna and connectors.
  4. Re-install all trim in the reverse order of the above including re-connection of all electrical connections.
  5. Re-connect the battery.

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

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Welcome to Fixya! Ok, The easiest way to Accomplish this is to go to Wal Mart and try to get a Wiring Harness for your Stereo for the Easiest Installation. Or go to Schoche.com and Locate it there. This Harness is Idiot Proof- You Just Match the Colors From the New Head Unit and Plug into the Factory Harness. As for the Trim, There are Screws on the Bottom on Some Models But, Others Simply Clip on. Just look Close and you will see how it is Mounted. You might need an Insert Kit for it also. These can be Purchased at Wal Mart Also. Just look for one that will fit your Car.

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

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