Question about Cars & Trucks
It could be as simple as a poor connection on the starter solenoid wire. Is it a push-on connector? One could do a little checking. When the starter won't work, test for power on the solenoid wire when key is held in crank. If power there, clean the connector, and check if starter works. No power? Then move to the neutral safety switch, check for power leaving the switch, key in crank, and clutch depressed. Power should be passing through the switch.
Another thing to check is all your grounds-the battery, the engine ground, computer harness ground.
Posted on Jan 04, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I have a 1998 Ford
I have a 1998 ford escort had the same problems in the past, fix that alternator and then it went out again. It came to be the solenoid that mad the alternator go bad. Don't know if that will help but it's something to look into.
Posted on Nov 06, 2008
Yes, it sounds like your solenoid is bad and staying engaged against the flywheel, you could do an amperage draw and a voltage drop test to find out for sure, but you will need an DVOM and a amp clamp. Or you could take it into an auto parts store and they will test it for free. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 06, 2009
I have the same car but don't have that problem with this one however, I did with the 99 I traded for this one. I figured out that if the wheels were not left straight, any degree of angle facing either direction, would freeze something in the steering column and not allow it to start. Had it towed twice before the tech said he had the same problem in the past. Never happened after that. The prob I had with the 2004 Taurus, bought a cheap battery from wal-mart and it ran everything but my car, tech said it's probably the reason the alternator had failed. Check your brand of battery. My battery light stayed on for two months, started fine, switched the battery from the wal-mart one, light went off instantly.
Posted on Aug 30, 2009
There are contacts located inside the solenoid of the starter that fail with age.
As the contacts where down, the starter likes to 'stick' and can take many tries to start, often requiring jostling like turning the wheel.
There are two options to correct this. The first obviously is to replace the starter.
To save some money you can replace the contacts instead.
Doing this requires unhooking your battery and removing the starter from the car.
Then remove the access plate on the back of the solenoid (3 8mm bolts), take out the plunger and spring. From there you can see the copper contacts, and how they have worn. Remove the 12m and 14mm on either side of the housing and push the bolts through to release the contacts and install new in the same order they came apart.
If you are taking this to a repair shop, be advised most independent shops will just try to sell you a $450 starter. Provide them these instructions or take it to a Toyota dealer and ask for "starter contacts" and they will know exactly what you need.
Posted on Sep 20, 2009
Ignition switch and neutral safety switch. Next time it happens wiggle thekeys in the ignition switch and try to restart.If it starts its probably the ignition switch. Then locate neutral safety switch on brake pedal and put meter on B+ wire from switch to starter relay and see if you get B+ on the would -be- crank. Next locate B+ wire from starter relay to starter hook a meter to it and see if you get B+ on the would -be crank.
Where ever B+ is missing is your problem.
Posted on Apr 14, 2010
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