Question about Cars & Trucks
You can try dissconnecting the power under the seat. Will ussually be a two wire harness. Wires are bigger than others that are present. Try replacing your fuse. If the fuse still blows you know the problem is not the seat. From there I would power the seat with two wires you can run directly from battery power. Put the seat where you want, and your good. Cheers
Posted on Jan 04, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Disconnect as many of the door switch wiring plugs, and wiring plugs for the seats that you can. Then, drop in a fuse. If it blows, you probably have a wiring issue, not a switch issue. If it doesn't blow immediately, reconnect the doors, and seats one at a time till the fuse does blow. Once it does, you've isolated your problem to a smaller area, and can replace / rewire that component.
If you've disconnected everything, and the fuse still blows, you probably have a wiring issue that will need to be traced. You will need a multimeter that can read ohms. You'll need to isolate different parts of the circuit (probably by unplugging and or cutting a wire in that circuit unfortunately) then use the multimeter to test the ohms from that part of the circuit to NON voltage side of the fuse holder. (If you try to test ohms on a hot circuit you will likely fry your multimeter!). If the meter reads low ohms, there is your short. High ohms (infinity) means there is no circuit, and there is no short. When you hit on something of low ohms, you've isolated the problem to a smaller area, and can keep tracing that wiring back to the fuse box to find your short.
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
SOURCE: Stuck seat - 3rd row seating
My 2006 Explorer has the same problem mabe from trying to lift it with something on it. I dont know but I was able to raise and lower it manualy by lifting as I held in the button. I am in the middle of taking it apart. the motor has two parts it is easy to get the electric part out I am still trying to get the black gear box off. going to try to finish tomorrow. Dealer wants $600
Posted on Feb 02, 2010
My sincere apologies for the delayed response.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions.
I do not know if you still need this information, but I am going ahead and answering it anyway. You may want to Print the Diagrams for future use.
CLICK on the following LINK. It has the Belt Diagrams you will need.
The simple rule in removing the Belt: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley away from the belt and towards the "open area" AND remove the belt off from one of the other more accessible Pulleys. They have serpentine belt remover bars/tools available at most auto parts stores and Harbor Freight.
If you would: Before Clicking: Let me know if this helped you, or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!
Again my apologies...
Posted on Mar 07, 2010
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