Question about 1983 Chevrolet S-10

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1982 Chevy S-10 Clutch cam pawl

The plastic pawl on my 1982 Chevy S-10 clutch cam assembly is broken. Where can I get another one; or in the alternative, how can I fix the assembly to work without the pawl? /tks/

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1118 Answers

SOURCE: 94 chevy s-10 clutch won't release comepletely after replacement

two things to mind, sometimes when you get a new clutch it comes with blocks in pressure plate there put in there from the factory for shipping purposes, they have to be removed otherwise it will do what you discribe. secound if you got the wrong length throwout bearing will do it to. most likely its one or the other. if you sure everything is right as far as clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing, than the only other thing i can say it could be is slave cyl. bad. hope this helps. OLD SCHOOL.

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: the clutch on a 2001 chevy tracker ac unit when you turn the ac on it squeals like a bastard...any fix to it? without buying a new clutch at a cost of $976 or ac compressor for $868??? other than the

HI, you can replace the bearings on this clutch and it will save you lots of money. the bearing are shot and dry.

Posted on May 21, 2009

  • 37 Answers

SOURCE: clutch won't disengage

master/slave cylinder

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

MNfisherman
  • 11896 Answers

SOURCE: I am trying to remove the bolt for the fan clutch

  1. 1 Remove the fan and clutch assembly from the fan's pulley. The assembly attaches to the pulley with several bolts on the circumference of the pulley. To remove the bolts, position an open-end wrench over each bolt and turn each bolt in a counterclockwise direction while grasping one of the fan's blades to prevent the fan from turning with the bolt.
  2. Step 2 Pull the fan and clutch assembly away from the engine, then lift the assembly out of the engine's compartment.
  3. Step 3 Remove the bolts which hold the fan to the clutch. The bolts are located on the back of the fan, and can be removed with a open-end wrench.
  4. Step 4 Place the fan and clutch assembly on a flat surface with the clutch facing up, then pull the clutch straight up to disengage it from the fan.

Posted on Nov 12, 2009

alicantecoli
  • 22114 Answers

SOURCE: clutch fluid leaking inside of trans housing on a 98 s10

do you mean a manual model ?? is the slave cylinder inside the bell housing ??if so renew it

Posted on Dec 27, 2009

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I'm looking for the plastic gear that mount on the clutch pedal assembly for 1982 s 10 durango


On that 82 you are most likely looking at a junk yard part. Try the self help pull and save type yards and if you can find one it won't cost much.

May 17, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do you change a clutch cable in a 1989 mustang 5.0l 5 speed


Hi, procedure from autozone.com pasted below. Please let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

CAUTION The clutch driven disc often contains asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer-causing agent Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed air. Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch surface. When cleaning clutch surfaces, use a commercially-available brake cleaning fluid.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

  1. Lift the clutch pedal to its upward-most position to disengage the pawl and quadrant. Push the quadrant forward, unhook the cable from the quadrant and allow it to slowly swing rearward.
  2. Open the hood and remove the screw that holds the cable assembly isolator to the dash panel.
  3. Pull the cable through the dash panel and into the engine compartment. On 5.0L engines, remove the cable bracket screw from the fender apron.
  4. Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands.
  5. Remove the dust cover from the bell housing.
  6. Remove the clip retainer holding the cable assembly to the bell housing.
  7. Slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly through the hole in the clutch release lever and remove the cable.
  8. Remove the dash panel isolator from the cable.

To install:
  1. Install the dash panel isolator on the cable assembly.
  2. Insert the cable through the hole in the bell housing and through the hole in the clutch release lever. Slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly away from the hole in the clutch release lever.
  3. Install the clip retainer that holds the cable assembly to the bell housing.
  4. Install the dust shield on the bell housing.
  5. Push the cable assembly into the engine compartment and lower the vehicle. On 5.0L engines, install the cable bracket screw in the fender apron.
  6. Push the cable assembly into the hole in the dash panel and secure the isolator with a screw.
  7. Install the cable assembly by lifting the clutch pedal to disengage the pawl and quadrant. Then, pushing the quadrant forward, hook the end of the cable over the rear of the quadrant.
  8. Depress the clutch cable several times to adjust the cable.

May 07, 2011 | Ford Mustang Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I need to adjust my clutch



Pre 1997/9 models of Fords were self-adjusting via the clutch-foot-pedal. The pedal engages a ratchet system called the QUADRANT & PAWL and is part of the pedal. The mechanism is very similar on older Ford models of: Escort, Fiesta, Sierra, Granada, Transit & others. Newer vehicles may have a Hydraulic Clutch from 1997/9 onwards, and these work differently from the cable & pully mechanism. Clutch-fluid can be bled to improve the ability to operate the clutch, however this is not necessarily a method of adjusting the clutch.

If your reading this article because you have a broken clutch-pedal then please read on.

If when pressing the foot-pedal it feels like cable is broken, or pedal is loose, ...This is symptomatic of failure of the QUADRANT & PAWL 'ratchet' mechanism due to wear of teeth on the ratchet.

In some cases the pedal fails to pull the clutch out far enough to change gear, and may make a 'springing noise'. This is due to slippage on some worn ratchet-teeth, but the mechanism has not reached full failure.
There are 2 ways to remedy the fault.

1. Change the Quadrant & Pawl, using only genuine Ford parts. #Beware of inferior mouldings that are not up to standard e.g. too soft, and do not trust 'pattern-parts' on ebay etc.

2. SHORTEN THE CABLE.
  • Disconnect the FOOT-PEDAL-SPRING to release the slack normally taken up by the 'Quadrant & Pawl' (ratchet) which is faulty.
  • Remove end of nipple from clutch-cable (engine-end).
  • Fill slack with bolts & washers or other filler.
  • Drill hole in LARGE nut & bolt (like split pin but inverted).
  • FIT NUT & BOLT TO REMAINING PART OF CLUTCH-CABLE NIPPLE.

ONLY CUT VERY END OF CABLE-NIPPLE LEAVING AS MUCH CRIMP AS POSSIBLE, ...then clamp the nut & bolt over the crimp. This is less likely to slip or even cut cable.

Clutch-cable should be able to be re-fitted without tools or tensioning the clutch-arm. Final tension of cable should leave CLUTCH ARM & CABLE SLIGHTLY LOOSE.

NOTE : Overadjustment of clutch can cause damage. Therfore only remove a minimum of slack from the cable.

Mar 21, 2011 | 1999 Ford Escort

2 Answers

I cannot get the car into gear. It is a manual transmission. Is there a spot where fluid goes in for the clutch?


Your clutch is not hydraulic but is supposed to self adjust. Try the procedure below to help it adjust. If it will not adjust, the clutch may be worn out.


ADJUSTMENT

Free-Play See Figures 8, 9 and 10
The clutch free-play is adjusted automatically by a built-in clutch control mechanism. This device allows the clutch controls to self-adjust during normal operation.
The system consists of a spring-loaded gear quadrant, a spring-loaded pawl and a clutch cable which is spring-loaded to preload the release lever bearing. This compensates for movement of the release lever, as the clutch disc wears. The pawl, located at the top of the clutch pedal, engages the gear quadrant when the clutch pedal is depressed and pulls the cable through its continuously adjusted stroke. Clutch cable adjustments are not required because of this feature.
jturcotte_253.gif

Fig. Fig. 8: Clutch self-adjusting system component identification for the 3.8L engine


CHECKING ADJUSTMENT
The self-adjusting feature should be checked every 5,000 miles (8,000 km). This is accomplished by ensuring that the clutch pedal travels to the top of its upward position. Grasp the clutch pedal with your hand or put your foot under the clutch pedal, and pull up on the pedal until it stops. Very little effort is required (about 10 lbs./4.5 kg). Finally, depress the clutch pedal and listen for an audible "click.'' If you hear a sound, the clutch was in need of adjustment, and it has just adjusted itself.

Nov 23, 2010 | 1998 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

I have a 1982 ford f150. trans problems


transmission is stuck in between gears, clutch is broken or rear end is locked up

Jun 16, 2010 | 1982 Ford F 150

1 Answer

I need to tear down my transmission in a 1988 Chevrolet Cavalier Z24 2.8L i am fixing the clutch and i need diagrams on how to take it apart and put it back together


Below is process for removing and replacing the clutch assembly.
Hope this helps, good luck.
Regards,


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figures 1, 2 and 3



0900c1528003be16.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the clutch disc and cover assembly
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. If equipped with a cable clutch (1982-84 vehicles), disconnect the cable at the clutch release lever and transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
  3. For 1985-94 vehicles remove the sound insulator from inside the vehicle. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal.




0900c1528003be17.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 2: Disconnect the clutch actuator (slave) cylinder line - 1995-96 vehicles
  1. Remove the transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
  2. Mark the pressure plate assembly and the flywheel so that they can be assembled in the same position. They were balanced as an assembly at the factory.
  3. Loosen the attaching bolts one turn at a time until spring tension is relieved.
  4. Support the pressure plate and remove the bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Do not disassemble the pressure plate assembly; replace it if defective.
  5. Inspect the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and the clutch fork and pivot shaft assembly for wear. Replace the parts as required. If the flywheel shows any signs of overheating, or if it is badly grooved or scored, it should be refaced or replaced.




0900c1528003be18.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 3: You must follow the specified sequence when tightening the pressure plate retaining bolts
To install:
  1. Clean the pressure plate and flywheel mating surfaces thoroughly.
  2. Position the clutch disc and pressure plate into the installed position, and support with a dummy shaft or clutch aligning tool, tool J 29074 or equivalent. The clutch plate is assembled with the damper springs offset toward the transaxle. One side of the factory supplied clutch disc is stamped "Flywheel Side".
  3. Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts. Tighten them in the sequence shown in the accompanying figure, as follows:
    1. Tighten bolts 1,2,3, then 4,5,6 in the sequence shown to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
    2. Tighten bolts 1,2,3, then 4,5,6 in the sequence shown to 15-22 ft. lbs. (22-30 Nm) plus an additional 30° turn.
    3. Remove the clutch alignment tool.

  4. Lubricate the outside groove and the inside recess of the release bearing with high temperature grease. Wipe off any excess. Install the release bearing.
  5. Install the transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.



WARNING When adjusting the cruise control switch, do NOT exert an upward force on the clutch pedal pad of more than 20 lbs. (89 N) or damage to the master cylinder pushrod retaining ring may result.

  1. For 1985-94 vehicles, attach the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal and secure with the retaining clip. If equipped with cruise control, check the switch adjustment at the clutch pedal bracket. Install the sound insulator.
  2. If equipped with a cable clutch, attach the clutch cable at the transaxle and clutch release lever. Check the clutch operation by lifting the clutch pedal up to allow the mechanism to adjust the cable length. Depress the pedal slowly a few times to set the pawl into mesh with the quandrant teeth.


ADJUSTMENTS


All 1982-84 models have a self-adjusting clutch mechanism located on the clutch pedal, eliminating the need for periodic free play adjustments. The self-adjusting mechanism should be inspected periodically as follows:
  1. Depress the clutch pedal and look for the pawl on the self-adjusting mechanism to firmly engage the teeth on the ratchet.
  2. Release the clutch. The pawl should be lifted off of the teeth by the metal stop on the bracket.

On 1985 and later models, the hydraulic clutch system provides automatic clutch adjustment. No adjustment of clutch linkage or pedal position is required.

May 04, 2009 | Chevrolet Cavalier Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I have a 1998 ford escort cx wagon, the clutch has broke..is it possible it could be the cable? does it have a cable? or is it a hydraulic clutch? or would I need to replace the clutch? :-)


Hi!
There may be a possibility the cable has snapped, however Ford used a ratchet and pawl set up on the Escort which is made of plastic! when it reaches its full tension (Self Adjusting) it can break leaving you with a baggy soppy floppy clutch pedal. So a clutch replacement is NOT required!
If the cable has broken you should be able to see from under the Bonnet/hood as it is situated on top of the gearbox Bell housing. Again a Clutch is NOT needed.
Hope this sorts it?
Press the Blue Button please to appraise my FREE! Effort.
Thank You!
Paul 'W' U.K.

Mar 02, 2009 | 1998 Ford Escort

3 Answers

How to install a clutch ratchet for ford escort van


Hi

If its the self adjusting pawl and ratchet on the pedal you're on about then its a nightmare, and your life will be so much easier if you actually remove the pedal assembly, fit the pawl and ratchet to it, and then refit the pedal assembly.

I think there are about 4 or 5 bolts if I'm not mistaken, a couple or three inside the car and a couple or three under the bonnet on the bulk head.

Once you've got the pedals off all will become clear.

Very best regards

Geordie

Jun 19, 2008 | 1996 Ford Escort 4 Door

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