Question about 1995 Chevrolet Blazer
Not sure what the problem is but my daughter says that it loses power then cuts off. I drove it very short drive. It cut off then started back up but seemed to be sputtering no power. was told might be ECM but I am wondering if it might be TPS or Cam shaft Position sensor. any ideas helpp
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Had the same problem with by 1998 S10 a couple years ago. Changed fuel filter?? didn't work. Changed the fuel pump?? didn't work. Changed the fuel pressure regulator?? didn't work.
I was about to the end of my rope when I put a timing light on it and it showed firing on cylinders more then once a cycle. Turns out my distributor cap was bad and spark was jumping between contacts. When a spark is spread out over more then one cylinder, it doesn't fire correctly and that is causing it to bog out. Simple and a lot cheaper then all the other fixes I tried. Crank sensor was my next option though.
Posted on Feb 01, 2009
it doesnt take long to ruin the engine diluting the oil with gas - i dont know how i dodged that bullet, mine was leaking -gas into the oil- new spider is only the beginning of the care and feeding of the unpowered poppit spider motor- regular bottles of injector cleaner will keep them poppits clean, otherwise fuel deposits mess up the quantity and pattern of the fuel spray quickly from new- i had long suspected the new spider i installed was faulty, (Sorensen), but it was just quickly plugged by fuel deposits-as i understand it, the additives often in gas like to hook up in the poppits- my 1994 4.3 S10 kicks **** now, runs like it did when i bought it 5 yrs. ago, smooth like its supposed to, i was chasing the piggy/miss for two yrs, bottles of injector cleaner didnt help, it needed a heavier mix of cleaner
- it couldnt hardly get itself and a little aluminum boat out of a easy boat ramp, what broke free the deposits was doubling up on the amount of injector cleaner i dumped in the tank, when a person takes a clogged injected vehicle to a shop they hook up a pressurized system to it ,and disable the fuel pump -shop air system is better than aerosol can system, force the engine to run on a <10%> cleaner/gas mix for 20 minutes, guess i did get lucky with results from the cleaner addtive, cuz the real fix is find a shop that does the 10% cleaner 15-20 minute pressure wash of the injectors, and it should be done at least every year- mines running so good now, ill not see a lot of results from the pro cleaning i'm scheduled for tomorrow morning - hate to cancel tho- these unpowered poppits are very finicky - i did reuse my plemun half shell gasket, it has the red rubber line on it and it was still live so i reused it
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
Could be several different problems things causing this,Disconnect map sensor and try pushing on gas if map is bad problem will be gone or different,you could also have TPS sensor,Distributor problem,or fuel volume problem,Are there any codes set?
Posted on Oct 31, 2009
Testimonial: "p0101 code was stored,maf,cleared it,runs the same,no codes coming back.unpluged map,idles,cuts right out when you gas it. "
It sounds like your ECU is failing when it sits in the heat for a while. It's probably due to a faulty solder joint, and the heat may cause the board to warp momentarily, causing the engine to shut off. After the board cools down, you can start the vehicle again. You can test this by using a large fan, sealed ice pack, or similar to cool the ECU, while running the vehicle. If it sits and runs fine for longer than usual, replace the ECU. If it still shuts off, you may have a sensor that is failing when it gets hot, which will probably cut the spark, causing it to not start until the sensor resets. This is more complicated to track down because each sensor must be monitored while running the vehicle to know which on is failing when the engine shuts off.
Posted on Mar 13, 2011
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